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Thread: 02 PR5 Crank, No Start

  1. #16
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

    2002 mazda protege 5

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    Quote Originally Posted by PR5Zach View Post
    Tested the fuses using my multimeter but most of them were reading .000 and a few would jump around .230-.400. None of the fuses are blown and the ignition was set to “on”.
    Are you testing for voltage with the red lead going to the fuse tab and the black lead clipped to the frame or a bolt.
    The Diagram Dude

  2. #17
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by PR5Zach View Post
    To ground I was just use any old wire and connect it to the body correct?
    Yes,... Bare metal
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  3. #18
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by PR5Zach View Post
    To ground I was just use any old wire and connect it to the body correct?
    Use the right terminal... Don't blow anything up that isn't already blown

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  4. #19
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    Shorted the F/P terminal and still Im hearing nothing come from the fuel pump

  5. #20
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    It's actually better if your pump doesn't run with the F/P wire grounded.

    That means the power wire going to the pump needs to be replaced.

    If the pump runs in"test" mode but not while your trying to start your car it means your ECU is saying "No way" this ain't gonna happen.

    It's receiving bad/incomplete or no data from some sensor somewhere.
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  6. #21
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by PR5Zach View Post
    Shorted the F/P terminal and still Im hearing nothing come from the fuel pump
    Your ignition was "on" ??
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  7. #22
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Check for +12 V at the connector right at the fuel tank under the cover.
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  8. #23
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Check for +12 V at the connector right at the fuel tank under the cover.

    Check for +12 V between the B and R/W wires in the connector. (black & red with a white stripe)

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  9. #24
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by pcb View Post
    Are you testing for voltage with the red lead going to the fuse tab and the black lead clipped to the frame or a bolt.
    The entire fuse box and all the fuses and clips are +12 V.

    Find a good ground somewhere for the black lead of your voltmeter and clip it on.
    Use the probe to touch either of the metal tabs on the fuse to check for+12 V.
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  10. #25
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by PR5Zach View Post
    Tested the fuses using my multimeter but most of them were reading .000 and a few would jump around .230-.400. None of the fuses are blown and the ignition was set to “on”.
    Remember,... You don't test across the fuse to check for+12 V,... You test between one of the metal tabs on the fuse and a bolt or bare metal somewhere.
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  11. #26
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    This is fun !!

    I feel like this guy !!

    (But I'm only using one hand... I need to hold my beer)

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  12. #27
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    Ok I finally got around to testing the fuses and half of them read around 12V, The fuses that didn’t read 12V in the engine bay were the Headlight fuses(probably because I didn’t have the lights), The Fog lamps(uninstalled), The taillights(not on), and The starter signal. I feel the starter signal not reading +12V is a problem. I also check the interior fuse box and they all read 12V except for the fuse that controls the mirrors. I also went to test the fuel pump and it looks like the B wire and the R/W wires are switched around. Still checked for 12V and it’s barely reading .012V. I’ve been busy with work and school so I haven’t been able to mess with the car.

  13. #28
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    The starter fuse is probably normal. It's supposed to go to +12 V with key in start position.
    You could test for +12 V during start to verify.

    The wires in the connector are probably correct. The diagram shows the connector as though you unplugged it and turn it to look at it... It's not the view from the wire side, it's the view from the pin side.

    You should have +12 V between the two wires when the jumper wire is connected to the F/P terminal.

    If you don't have +12 V then you either have a bad wire between the fuel pump relay and the fuel pump or your not getting +12 V to the relay in the first place.

    You can test for voltage by removing the relay and testing for+12 V on each terminal in the socket.
    I don't know which terminal but at least one of them should go positive when you turn your key to on.
    You can further test by installing the relay and listening for a click when the jumper wire is touched to ground, although if the ignition turns on the relay (which it may or may not do) then it won't click when you ground the jumper wire because it's already energized.
    (you could listen for a click when you turn on your ignition but it would probably be hard to know if it's that relay or one of the others.
    You did say that the relay clicked when you plugged it in and that makes me feel at least 90% sure that the relay is working and the power is getting to and through it)

    If you've got power going through the relay but not making it to the fuel pump then you need to replace or splice in a new wire from the wire from under the fuel pump relay socket to the fuel pump.

    Try to find the wire leaving the fusebox and test for +12 V there, then you know you can splice from that point.
    Last edited by pcb; 01-10-2018 at 01:52 PM.
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  14. #29
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    So the fuel pump connecter should read 12V when I have the jumper wire grounded and connected to the F/P terminal? And also how would I go about splicing a new wire? Running a whole new wire between the fuse box and the fuel pump?

  15. #30
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    Still getting no power between those two terminals even with the F/P terminal grounded.

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