02 PR5 Crank, No Start

Check for +12 V at the connector right at the fuel tank under the cover.
 
Check for +12 V at the connector right at the fuel tank under the cover.

Check for +12 V between the B and R/W wires in the connector. (black & red with a white stripe)

 
Are you testing for voltage with the red lead going to the fuse tab and the black lead clipped to the frame or a bolt.

The entire fuse box and all the fuses and clips are +12 V.

Find a good ground somewhere for the black lead of your voltmeter and clip it on.
Use the probe to touch either of the metal tabs on the fuse to check for+12 V.
 
Tested the fuses using my multimeter but most of them were reading .000 and a few would jump around .230-.400. None of the fuses are blown and the ignition was set to “on”.

Remember,... You don't test across the fuse to check for+12 V,... You test between one of the metal tabs on the fuse and a bolt or bare metal somewhere.
 
This is fun !!

I feel like this guy !!

(But I'm only using one hand... I need to hold my beer)

 
Ok I finally got around to testing the fuses and half of them read around 12V, The fuses that didn’t read 12V in the engine bay were the Headlight fuses(probably because I didn’t have the lights), The Fog lamps(uninstalled), The taillights(not on), and The starter signal. I feel the starter signal not reading +12V is a problem. I also check the interior fuse box and they all read 12V except for the fuse that controls the mirrors. I also went to test the fuel pump and it looks like the B wire and the R/W wires are switched around. Still checked for 12V and it’s barely reading .012V. I’ve been busy with work and school so I haven’t been able to mess with the car.
 
The starter fuse is probably normal. It's supposed to go to +12 V with key in start position.
You could test for +12 V during start to verify.

The wires in the connector are probably correct. The diagram shows the connector as though you unplugged it and turn it to look at it... It's not the view from the wire side, it's the view from the pin side.

You should have +12 V between the two wires when the jumper wire is connected to the F/P terminal.

If you don't have +12 V then you either have a bad wire between the fuel pump relay and the fuel pump or your not getting +12 V to the relay in the first place.

You can test for voltage by removing the relay and testing for+12 V on each terminal in the socket.
I don't know which terminal but at least one of them should go positive when you turn your key to on.
You can further test by installing the relay and listening for a click when the jumper wire is touched to ground, although if the ignition turns on the relay (which it may or may not do) then it won't click when you ground the jumper wire because it's already energized.
(you could listen for a click when you turn on your ignition but it would probably be hard to know if it's that relay or one of the others.
You did say that the relay clicked when you plugged it in and that makes me feel at least 90% sure that the relay is working and the power is getting to and through it)

If you've got power going through the relay but not making it to the fuel pump then you need to replace or splice in a new wire from the wire from under the fuel pump relay socket to the fuel pump.

Try to find the wire leaving the fusebox and test for +12 V there, then you know you can splice from that point.
 
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So the fuel pump connecter should read 12V when I have the jumper wire grounded and connected to the F/P terminal? And also how would I go about splicing a new wire? Running a whole new wire between the fuse box and the fuel pump?
 
I did a continuity test on a spare fuse box I had to find which prongs led to the connectors of the fuel pump relay. After doing that I ruled out a few prongs that led to the fuel pump relay on the underside of the fuse box. I couldn’t quite find the correct wire and and had hard time finding which one led back to the fuel pump since most of them were reading 12V. I’m gonna try again tomorrow and use a long wire to test continuity between the connectors to the fuse box and the actual fuse pump power connector.
 
So the fuel pump connecter should read 12V when I have the jumper wire grounded and connected to the F/P terminal? And also how would I go about splicing a new wire? Running a whole new wire between the fuse box and the fuel pump?

Yes and yes.
 
Find the R/W wire in the FB-03 connector.
It's one of the big connectors that plugs into the fusebox.

With everything connected and plugged in, test for +12 V between the R/W wire and ground. Probe into the R/W terminal beside the wire to where the metal is to get your reading don't unplug the connector.
I don't know of that's even possible but I assume it is,... You might have to disconnect your fusebox a bit and reach underneath to probe it??

Do this test with the ignition on and the F/P terminal grounded.
Hopefully you've got +12 V on that wire. If you do, cut the wire about 2-3 inches back from the connector, strip the last half inch of the insulation and splice in a wire long enough to reach the fuel pump connector and do the same splice there two inches back.


Oh,.. I forgot..

You may have a bad ground wire instead, the black one in the connector. Test that first.

With the ignition off, test for continuity (resistance turn you multimeter to ohms) between the black wire in the connector and ground.. bare metal somewhere.
There should be 0 ohms, or very close to it.
Then, just to be thorough, check for +12 V between the R/W wire and ground (bare metal) with the ignition on and the F/P terminal grounded.

If you have +12 V between the R/W wire and ground but NOT between the R/W wire and black wire then you have a bad ground wire.

If that's the case, splice a piece of wire from the black wire to ground somewhere... Under a bolt or something.
 
The first picture is kinda blurry..
It's in your P5 Wire download.

Oh.. It's best to solder all the splices you make and use shrink tubes to cover them.
Those crimp on connectors don't work very well and can corrode and get dirty over time and stop conducting.
Your dad can do it for you if your not good at it. Most people suck at soldering.




 
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I did the continuity test like you said for the black wire and had it set to ohms and I got a reading of 0.9-1.0. Idk how if that is close to zero or not. I also tested for 12V between the R/W wire and ground with the F/P terminal grounded and still very little volts.
 
And just to be sure connector FB-03 would be the big white one correct? There are 3 red and white wires in there but I’m assuming it’s the wire that is dominantly red and some white. The other 2 wires are mostly white and some red.
 
I’m still kinda iffy on the power connector to the fuel pump, when Unplugged and turning it to look into the terminals the red is on the bottom left and the black is on the bottom right.
 
Im still kinda iffy on the power connector to the fuel pump, when Unplugged and turning it to look into the terminals the red is on the bottom left and the black is on the bottom right.

I think I got my connectors mixed up...
The picture above is the "receiver"...

Either way,... If the black wire with an orange stripe is above the black wire, and the gray wire is above the red wire with a white stripe then the wires are correct.

They are mirror images of each other... Sometimes the wires change color scheme through the connector to further confuse things.

 
And just to be sure connector FB-03 would be the big white one correct? There are 3 red and white wires in there but Im assuming its the wire that is dominantly red and some white. The other 2 wires are mostly white and some red.








 
Ill get around to splicing in a new wire sometime today. Just to be safe, should I also splice in a new ground and bolt it under the fuel pump panel? Thanks for all your help hopefully this will solve my problem. Would this also fix the temp gauge jumping to HOT?
 
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