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Thread: Intermitted Power Loss, Please Help!

  1. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by pb4ugotobed View Post
    Man, that sounds like an expensive way to fix a car. Just keep throwing parts at it until it works? I understand your frustration but I would have to test the components so i'm not guessing at what is wrong. When you keep throwing money and parts at the car it is only going to increase your frustration.
    You are not wrong.

    But, I just have a very limited amount of time that I am able to mess with my cars.

    I have 4 cars, and 3 of them are old and require a lot of attention. A 91, 02, 03, and a 2015. With regular maintenance and things going bad, I spend a lot of time fixing various issues with them. Actually, the Mazda has been a very reliable.

    So, when it comes to the current problem with my P5, I only have very intermitted symptoms to diagnose these issues, not CEL codes. The car runs perfectly sometimes, and other times I see the symptoms. I just think the time it will take to diagnose every potential issue is not worth it for me.

    None of the parts that I just purchased have are too expensive, and some I purchased, like the belts, need to be replaced. Even if the sensors I purchased are not bad, the readings of those sensors could be a little off due to the age of them, so replacing them will probably help the P5 run a little better and more efficiently.

  2. #77
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    Believe me i know where you're coming from!

    By chance have you checked for a clogged cat or partially clogged cat? Maybe worth looking into; I don't know how your car is as far as oil consumption/burning/blowby but if it's dumping raw fuel or oil into the exhaust that's not being burned off, the cold weather could cause it to congeal and become more restrictive.

    Same for injectors. inspect your spark plugs closely for any signs that something is off. A spark plug never lies and tells a lot of the story about how an engine is running. If one of them (or more) have different burn patterns then that may help to narrow down the cylinder/coil/injector/etc that's causing problems. IF you've got one or two spark plugs that indicate it's lean compared to the others then you may have clogged injector(s). Or if an injector is sticky/sticking you'd see it's running rich. it would be best to keep some tools with you and pull the plugs as soon as it stalls for best readings, if it's rich the plug will still be wet.

    I'd personally ignore everything you've done up to this point and start from a clean slate. Start with the basics; you need fuel, fire, and squish to make the engine run. if it's dogging out like but runs great other times the compression is probably fine (though it wouldn't hurt to test it just so you know where you're at). Looking at your spark plugs as soon as it dies will tell you what your fuel to fire ratio is.

    Only other thing I could possibly think of off hand is maybe ECM. If it's got a cold solder joint somewhere or cracked solder joint on something, metal contracts when it is cold so it could open that crack so there's intermittent or no continuity. but when it's warm it works. Something like that could also kill the car and not throw a code.


    Just throwing out a few ideas, but like anybody working on a problem car for a long time, you tend to get tunnel vision and miss the obvious stuff right in front of you. It happens to us all. Hell, it could just be a loose or corroded ground wire somewhere that's killing injectors or ECM or something and causing it to stall even.

  3. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by pcb View Post
    You can get an EML 327 code reader that broadcasts to your phone using the torque app.
    They're only about $10 online.

    I looked into these. Yesterday, I asked a friend of mine if I could borrow his to see if they worked on my P5. He uses an old phone, and just has it mounted in his car.

    I will probably try his soon, if it works, I will get it.

  4. #79
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    They apparently work for our car...
    The only thing was that the guy had to get Torque Pro to get a voltage reading.
    I've got one but haven't used it yet.

    I've got a plugin handheld kind that I use but it only reads and rubs codes.

    I used to own an Ultra Gauge but it didn't show everything so I sold it and got the ELM 327 and a phone.
    The Diagram Dude

  5. #80
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by minkushunter View Post
    I will probably try his soon, if it works, I will get it.
    They show all the information from every sensor on your car,.. Fuel trims, temperatures, speed, closed loop,.. Everything,... And in real time.
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  6. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by pcb View Post
    They show all the information from every sensor on your car,.. Fuel trims, temperatures, speed, closed loop,.. Everything,... And in real time.
    My scanner does that for my 2002 dodge truck, and my wife's 2015 Mazda, but is does not give any info for my P5. On my P5, it only gives the info at the time of a CEL.

    Have you tried it on your P5? This would be awesome if it works... I will give it a try soon.

  7. #82
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    I went out and plugged in my scanner and after getting the thing "paired", I got the thing going.
    It was showing me lots of info... The Torque Pro version would show me lots more info.





    My scanner uses Bluetooth to connect but others use WiFi,.. Still others are for iPhone using Bluetooth or WiFi.

    I don't think that makes a difference as far as what info is shown but you'd need to order the proper scan tool to pair with your phone.

    I did notice that my scan tool stuck out and down towards my feet where it could get in the way or get kicked or something... The mini or micro version might be less intrusive.

    PS... My temperature needle hit 72°C right when it stopped moving.. That's where the needle parks itself until the engine is way too hot and it starts climbing again.
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  8. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by pcb View Post
    I went out and plugged in my scanner and after getting the thing "paired", I got the thing going.
    It was showing me lots of info... The Torque Pro version would show me lots more info.





    My scanner uses Bluetooth to connect but others use WiFi,.. Still others are for iPhone using Bluetooth or WiFi.

    I don't think that makes a difference as far as what info is shown but you'd need to order the proper scan tool to pair with your phone.

    I did notice that my scan tool stuck out and down towards my feet where it could get in the way or get kicked or something... The mini or micro version might be less intrusive.

    PS... My temperature needle hit 72°C right when it stopped moving.. That's where the needle parks itself until the engine is way too hot and it starts climbing again.
    Thanks for posting this.

    So to be clear, what app are you using? and what OS?

    As for the size sticking out, I planned on buying the smaller one. The ELM 327 scan tool that my friend has sticks out making it difficult to use while driving in some cars like the P5. It came with a short cable extension, but I think it would still be in the way on the P5.

    I think when I was looking at the Bluetooth scan tools, I had trouble finding a small one that worked with the iOS. Or at least ones with reviews of people verifying that it works with an iPhone.

    I will look today on Amazon and Ebay, if I find a small one for the iPhone, then I will get it.

    Thanks again for posting this.

  9. #84
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    Thanks for your input...
    Quote Originally Posted by pb4ugotobed View Post
    By chance have you checked for a clogged cat or partially clogged cat?
    I can check it, but I don't think this is it for a few reasons. I experienced the issue when downpipe had a rusted out hole in it, but I have since then replaced the downpipe. Also, the current motor has very, very little oil consumption, and the fuel economy has been better than ever, so I assume I am not running rich.

    It wouldn't hurt to check though, if the bolts are not too corroded, I will take off the cat and check it out.

    Quote Originally Posted by pb4ugotobed View Post
    Same for injectors. inspect your spark plugs closely for any signs that something is off.
    I plan on checking the injectors out, although when I removed the last set of plugs, they looked fine. Looking at the plugs at the time of symptoms is very unrealistic for me, so I will have to figure something else out.


    Quote Originally Posted by pb4ugotobed View Post
    Only other thing I could possibly think of off hand is maybe ECM.
    I thought of this. Having multiple random issues seems similar to a Ford truck I owned a while back.

    I had a bad ECU on an old Ford. It started out with occasional random CELs looking like sensors were bad, I would test them and they would be fine. Most of them I replaced because they were so cheap on the Ford. After a few months of this, I started getting multiple CELs, many of them not making sense. I suspected the ECU, but many people in the forums said stuff like they never go bad. I got a refurb for really cheap on Ebay, swapped it, and it ran better than ever.

    For the P5, I am not sure where to start with the ECU, maybe I will take it out and check to see if there is any obvious issues.


    Quote Originally Posted by pb4ugotobed View Post
    Hell, it could just be a loose or corroded ground wire somewhere that's killing injectors or ECM or something and causing it to stall even.
    I double checked the grounding strap to the motor over the weekend, it was there, I check for continuity and had it. Maybe I will test for the resistance.


    I thought of possible grounding issues due to the motor swap from a few years ago. But, I guess it could be another ground somewhere... Most of the grounding points are corroded, so this could be a problem.

    On another forum I use, people talk about grounding issues a lot. On the MR2, grounding issues often lead to fires. Many times grounds are forgotten during motor swaps, and it sometimes causes fires. I think due to the battery location.


    Quote Originally Posted by pb4ugotobed View Post
    I'd personally ignore everything you've done up to this point and start from a clean slate.
    I kind of been doing this all ready, although everything else I have done seem to make the P5 run better. The new fuel pressure regulator got rid of the CEL I was getting, but didn't fix the stalling and power loss issue. I feel like the P5 generally runs smoother and doesn't have the hesitation since the fuel pump/filter change. Changing the pump/filter was a huge pain, but only because the screws on the retaining plate on the filter assembly were so corroded that I had to drill every one out. But, @ 150k, I think it needed to be changed.

    Some of the stuff that has been done so far had little to no positive effect that I have noticed, but it also was little cost and effort from me.

    As for the compression, I have a kit, I might check it this weekend if I have time.

    Thanks for all your input.

  10. #85
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by minkushunter View Post

    So to be clear, what app are you using? and what OS?
    I downloaded Torque App Light and it's running on an Android phone.

    Oh... And it's an older phone (3-4 years) running KitKat I believe.
    Last edited by pcb; 03-14-2018 at 10:57 AM.
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  11. #86
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    I received the BT scanner yesterday, and haven't had much time to play around with it yet. Around 9pm I was trying to get it working on my P5, but had issues.

    It worked fine in 2 of my other cars, but it wouldn't work for the P5. I was about to give up, but decided to move the OBD2 dongle around on the P5 OBD2 port. That got it working, I just couldn't press it in all the way for some reason.

    By the time I got it working, I didn't have time to do any troubleshooting, but I did notice that my long term fuel trim was a little off. Almost -10%. This was at idle. Also, the engine temp seemed a little low, 170F. Maybe it was not warmed up all the way yet, as it did warm from idle.

    Anyways, I will do more this weekend.

    I will update soon.

  12. #87
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by minkushunter View Post
    ...This was at idle. Also, the engine temp seemed a little low, 170F. Maybe it was not warmed up all the way yet,..
    That might be about right...



    But I'm still thinking your ECT is sending inaccurate info...

    I'm just thinking, you could possibly have a faulty thermostat ?? I don't know if that was mentioned yet ??
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  13. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by pcb View Post
    That might be about right...

    But I'm still thinking your ECT is sending inaccurate info...

    I'm just thinking, you could possibly have a faulty thermostat ?? I don't know if that was mentioned yet ??
    I was thinking that the ECT sending the wrong data. But, I guess the thermostat could be bad. I have no idea how old it is. It looks like the temperature gauge on the dash gets to operating temp.

    I will test it some more later. I have a new ECT sensor, so maybe test before and after replacing it.

    But, even if the thermostat is opening too early, or staying open a little bit, could this be causing the issues that I am experiencing? I am not sure, but hopefully, I will figure it out soon.

  14. #89
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by minkushunter View Post
    I was thinking that the ECT sending the wrong data. But, I guess the thermostat could be bad...
    ... could this be causing the issues that I am experiencing? ....
    I'm thinking possibly a combination of both ??
    You might want to replace it just for good measure.. You're changing your rad fluid anyway and a thermostat can be considered a maintenance item.
    They're all supposed to be failsafe but it doesn't always work then you're risking a warped head when they fail closed.
    A local parts store should have one for about $10 if you don't want to wait for shipping.

    The part that's bugging me is that you've got "seasonal" issues so I'm leaning towards items more directly connected to engine operating temperatures.


    Quote Originally Posted by minkushunter View Post
    ....It looks like the temperature gauge on the dash gets to operating temp.
    Keep in mind that the gauge on the dash is a dummy gauge... It's controlled by the ECU, and the ECU maybe receiving inaccurate data, your scanner would be reading the inaccurate data too.

    Quote Originally Posted by minkushunter View Post
    I will test it some more later. I have a new ECT sensor, so maybe test before and after replacing it.
    That sounds like a good idea... It looks like 71°C is the magic number.

    Last edited by pcb; 03-16-2018 at 03:11 PM.
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  15. #90
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    Good morning all,

    I was test driving my P5 today, and the issues came back hard after about 15 miles of driving. I wasn't sure if i was going to make it home.

    I had something new, or something that I had not noticed before, that might be able to help me figure out what is going on.

    The same power loss, surging, stalling, violent jerking was happening, but I noticed that when I was coasting in gear, foot off the pedal, the power loss was happening. I never noticed this before.

    Also, the RPMs would drop 1k-2k then come back up during the power loss and jerking.

    I have noticed this during acceleration before, but I have never noticed this during coasting.

    Could this point to something? The injectors are supposed to be closed during coasting, right? Maybe one is stuck open?

    I still plan on looking at everything that was mentioned before, but figure I would mention this symptom since I never notice it before.

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