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Thread: Intermitted Power Loss, Please Help!

  1. #31
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by minkushunter View Post
    The weather is suppose to warm up this upcoming week.

    I rent a huge garage where I do most of my work, but it is a 25 min drive. If my car makes it there, will swap out all the things mentioned so far, Plugs, Wires, Coils, and maybe the ECT, CSPS, and IAT, and see if that helps.
    So what happened ???

    Did you get your car fixed ??
    The Diagram Dude

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by pcb View Post
    So what happened ???

    Did you get your car fixed ??
    Sorry that I haven't replied back yet.
    They only think I have done so far, other than the things I mentioned all ready was swapped a coil.

    I know a lot of people posted thinking that was the issue I was experiencing, but I had a feeling that it was something else, and sadly, I was correct, as I still have the problem.

    It will be warm for the next few days, and I am furloughed at my job, so I plan on putting in new plugs, and swapping out wires with old ones I have. Hopefully it will be that easy, but I am worried that it is something else.

    If that doesn't work, I will try to make my way to my garage (25-30 minutes away) and start trying the other things mentioned.

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by arenfro View Post
    My p5 did what your saying yours does I never could figure it out and just dealt with it then one morning my timing belt broke, as I was replacing it I found that the tensioner was bad so I replaced that as well after I got the car back together it ran better than ever no more random stalls or power drops.
    I really worried that this is the problem, and I really didn't want to spend the money to get a timing belt kit, plus I have never done a timing belt before, so I am unsure about how that will go.

  4. #34
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    Any updates on this?

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slowerp5 View Post
    Any updates on this?
    Yes, a minor update.

    I needed to do the P5's Maryland emission test, which is going to be due soon. I am not worried about passing, as there are no CEL on, but I was worried about getting there and back.

    I wanted to do the plugs before I went to rule them out. With the weather being cold again, and my schedule, I didn't get a chance to do it until the day I planned to taking my car for the emissions test.

    I got plugs, installed them very quickly, and then attempted to start the motor. Normally, I would do an ECU reset after the plug change, but I could not do that this time due to the test, as it would fail because of the ECU reset.

    The motor started, but stalled about 5 second later, I had a hard time to get the motor to turn over after that.

    I got it running, and was going to let it warm up (it had been 3ish weeks since the last time I started it), so I went inside for 5 minutes. Came out, and it was stalled. It wouldn't start after that.

    I decided at that point to reset the ECU, considering I only had a short time before the test station was going to close.

    A short time later, I started it, it ran for 10 seconds, then stalled, I started it again and it ran rough. I noticed that this is common after a ECU reset.

    I took it for a short test drive after the motor reached op temp, and it drove perfectly fine. Sometime soon, I will take it for a long test to see if the plugs fixed the issue. I really, really, really hope that this was the issue.

  6. #36
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    Also, let me say a couple things that were said previously, incase someone missed it.

    The plugs I recently removed were not old plugs, they had about 1-2k miles on them.
    I replaced both coils again in the past few months. The old ones were about a year old.
    The problem does not show symptoms until about 5-15 miles of driving. I am able to take short trips with no issues what so ever.


    I have a garage that is about 25 minutes from my home, but I ran out of heating oil, and it is crazy cold there. I plan on fixing that soon, and getting the P5 there to do some more tests.

    I have given it some thought, and I am probably going to replace the timing belt and tensioner sometime soon.
    Last edited by minkushunter; 02-08-2018 at 08:37 AM. Reason: spelling

  7. #37
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    I have another update, and the issue may have been fixed.

    Since my last update a few weeks ago, I have not touched my P5 until yesterday.

    I just had not had the time, or the weather was bad, so I was not able to test the plug change until last night. The weather was warm, and dry when I first started messing with it.

    The P5 started and idled, but stalled after a few minutes of running. I restarted it while keeping the RPMs up a little for about a minute. Then it was fine at idle.


    I test drove the P5 for about 10 miles and there was only one tiny loss of power 3 miles in, but not typical of the symptoms that I was having before.

    It started to rain, so I stopped at a pizza place, ate a slice, and continued the test drive about 30 minutes later when the rain stopped.


    I stayed close to home, but would venture out further and further as I got more confidence in how the P5 performed.

    I ended up driving for about 1.5 hours total, and put 55 miles on it since the plug change. 50 of the miles were last night. It rained a few times while driving, and there was not any issues.


    I am not sure if it was the plug change, or just the warm weather. I feel comfortable to drive the P5, but not with my baby in it, so I won't use it for commuting and/or dropping the baby off the at the daycare.

    I will wait for the cold weather to return and try to get a few more test drives in.



    I really hope that it was something as simple as the spark plugs, but if it was the plugs, a little upset that I didn't swap them earlier as I have been using my gas guzzler truck for commuting.

  8. #38
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    Just to throw this out there... have you tried cleaning or changing your IAC? Might be worth a check. Will definitely cause it to stall while idling and if it gets stuck open can cause vacuum issues and cause it to lose power. If you hold your foot on the gas pedal some so it doesn't have a chance to idle on its own will it still stall?

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by pb4ugotobed View Post
    Just to throw this out there... have you tried cleaning or changing your IAC? Might be worth a check. Will definitely cause it to stall while idling and if it gets stuck open can cause vacuum issues and cause it to lose power. If you hold your foot on the gas pedal some so it doesn't have a chance to idle on its own will it still stall?
    I haven't cleaned it in years, but maybe I will do it again just to be thorough.

    I think it may have been do to resetting the ECU. I notice on multiple cars that after resetting the ECU, sometimes the first few starts are a little rough.

    Either way, I might just clean it. IIRC, I think it was easy to get to and remove.

    Thanks for the reply.

  10. #40
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by minkushunter View Post
    I think it may have been do to resetting the ECU. I notice on multiple cars that after resetting the ECU, sometimes the first few starts are a little rough.
    Yea,... My car runs like crap after I disconnect the battery especially right after I start the car for the first time,.. It almost stalls then gets progressively better with each idle attempt.
    It apparently takes about 100 miles to get a smooth idle back.
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  11. #41
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    Do note that if you clean the IAC and throttle body it is best to disconnect the battery and reset the ECU. That way the ECU can relearn everything when it's clean because it does adjust to compensate for the dirty components that don't open/close all the way. This is a MUST for cars with an electronic throttle body but also makes a difference in cable operated TB as well.

  12. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by pb4ugotobed View Post
    Do note that if you clean the IAC and throttle body it is best to disconnect the battery and reset the ECU. That way the ECU can relearn everything when it's clean because it does adjust to compensate for the dirty components that don't open/close all the way. This is a MUST for cars with an electronic throttle body but also makes a difference in cable operated TB as well.
    Thanks for the tip.

    As a habit, I tend to reset the ECU after a lot of minor maintenance (not stuff like fluid changes), doing mods, part cleanings, and part removal and replacing such as sensors or electronic parts.

    I usually do it after changing ignition components like the spark plugs, but as mentioned in the above post, I was trying not to reset the ECU after my latest plug change due to me having my MD emission test due.

    If the ECU is recently reset, there isn't data for them to read, and they will automatically fail it and make you come back.

    So, I was trying to not reset the ECU, but the car wouldn't run at all with the new plugs, so I ended up just resetting it.

    I still have not done a second long test drive, I am waiting for a cold night to do it, but hopefully the plugs were the issue.

  13. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by pcb View Post
    Yea,... My car runs like crap after I disconnect the battery especially right after I start the car for the first time,.. It almost stalls then gets progressively better with each idle attempt.
    It apparently takes about 100 miles to get a smooth idle back.
    I notice this too. Sometimes after a ECU reset, I notice stalls, hard starts, rough idles, and sometimes other things.

    Actually, on the original USD motor I had on my P5, when first replacing the spark plugs with the long JDM ones, there was a screeching sound coming from the motor when first starting after resetting the ECU. It lasted like a half of a second, not sure why...

    It does not do it with the JDM motor, but I never had the USD recommended plugs in the motor, so maybe that's why.

  14. #44
    Banned GJ-Molestor's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by pb4ugotobed View Post
    Do note that if you clean the IAC and throttle body it is best to disconnect the battery and reset the ECU. That way the ECU can relearn everything when it's clean because it does adjust to compensate for the dirty components that don't open/close all the way. This is a MUST for cars with an electronic throttle body but also makes a difference in cable operated TB as well.
    Thatís a very good point. A modern ECU will be able to adjust quickly and smoothly, but an older one will need more time for adjustment so thatís definitely not a bad idea.

    However... you are taking a bit of a risk by disconnecting your battery. Itís definitely not good to do for your car, especially often.

  15. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by GJ-Molestor View Post

    However... you are taking a bit of a risk by disconnecting your battery. It’s definitely not good to do for your car, especially often.
    Why?

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