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Thread: Intermitted Power Loss, Please Help!

  1. #16
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    2003 protege 5

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    How do your wires look? Possible old plug wire grounding out or causing a weak spark? Plugs and coil packs are newer but how about the wires?
    I just had an issue car would just turn off while driving it. No symptoms of it happening just bam! Its off. Turns out the crank sensor had chaffed just below the plug against the lifting eyelet causing it to ground out and kill the engine. Took 3 days to find that. Might be a wire worn down near the cam or crank sensors

  2. #17
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    BJII Astina SP20

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    Sounds to me like a crank shaft position sensor failure?

  3. #18
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

    2002 mazda protege 5

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    Inspecting your crank sensor is part of the procedure for inspecting your cam sensor.
    The car will run with bad cam sensor info but the ECU will kill the engine with bad crank sensor info.

    It's easy enough to quickly check the crank gap and check the teeth.
    The electrode/pick up on the crank sensor likes to corrode and increase the gap.
    Maybe swap it out from the MSP cause it's easy enough to do.



    The part that bugs me is that his car will probably start running fine in a few months when spring comes ??

    That to me suggests our fussy coils or maybe the ECT as he suggested... or maybe the IAT sensor ??
    Last edited by pcb; 01-06-2018 at 06:13 AM.
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  4. #19
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

    2002 mazda protege 5

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    Quote Originally Posted by minkushunter View Post
    Thoughts on what else it could be:
    -Engine coolant temperature sensor – this would explain why it might ride like crap after the vehicle warms up. I had this issue on my MR2 Turbo, but I had a CEL with this, which the P5 does not have any.
    There is two codes for the coolant temperature sensor... Basically just for a broken wire or a shorted wire, not for bad data or "performance"...
    That might be something to check or swap if coils don't fix your problem...

    The IAT has a "performance" code.

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  5. #20
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    Mazda, Protege5

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    Quote Originally Posted by sleeprp5 View Post
    How do your wires look? Possible old plug wire grounding out or causing a weak spark? Plugs and coil packs are newer but how about the wires?
    I just had an issue car would just turn off while driving it. No symptoms of it happening just bam! Its off. Turns out the crank sensor had chaffed just below the plug against the lifting eyelet causing it to ground out and kill the engine. Took 3 days to find that. Might be a wire worn down near the cam or crank sensors
    The wires I relatively new. They will purchased in Nov of 2016. I have a few sets of old ones that were not necessarily bad when I replaced them, I will swap out the wires and check it out.

  6. #21
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    Mazda, Protege5

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    Quote Originally Posted by sleeprp5 View Post
    I just had an issue car would just turn off while driving it. No symptoms of it happening just bam! Its off. Turns out the crank sensor had chaffed just below the plug against the lifting eyelet causing it to ground out and kill the engine. Took 3 days to find that. Might be a wire worn down near the cam or crank sensors
    Quote Originally Posted by JazzySP20 View Post
    Sounds to me like a crank shaft position sensor failure?
    From my research, the CSPS could also have the same symptoms that my P5 has, except I am unsure about the issue being intermitted. Plus, it seems like weather has an impact on if the problem shows. It warm weather, the car was fine, but the colder it got, the worse the problems were. Also rain had an impact. If it was raining, but not cold, the problem would sometimes show. This is why I thought it could be electrical in nature, such as a short.

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by pcb View Post

    The part that bugs me is that his car will probably start running fine in a few months when spring comes ??

    That to me suggests our fussy coils or maybe the ECT as he suggested... or maybe the IAT sensor ??
    I suspected all the things that has been mentioned on all the posts so far except for the IAT sensor.

    The weather is suppose to warm up this upcoming week.

    I rent a huge garage where I do most of my work, but it is a 25 min drive. If my car makes it there, will swap out all the things mentioned so far, Plugs, Wires, Coils, and maybe the ECT, CSPS, and IAT, and see if that helps.

    Thanks everyone for you assistance with this issue.

  8. #23
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by minkushunter View Post
    From my research, the CSPS could also have the same symptoms that my P5 has, except I am unsure about the issue being intermitted.
    I could see the issue being intermittent of the gap is right on the borderline of being too big.
    I would suggest inspecting the gap and electrode for crap before swapping it,.. just for reference sake.

    Quote Originally Posted by minkushunter View Post
    . Plus, it seems like weather has an impact on if the problem shows. It warm weather, the car was fine, but the colder it got, the worse the problems were. Also rain had an impact. If it was raining, but not cold, the problem would sometimes show.
    That really sounds like coils !!!
    Those fussy dam things !!

    If you pop the hood and tell your coils to F-off they will retaliate with a miss-fire !!
    I never swear at my coils !! lol
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  9. #24
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    2002 Mazda, Protege5

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    My p5 did what your saying yours does I never could figure it out and just dealt with it then one morning my timing belt broke, as I was replacing it I found that the tensioner was bad so I replaced that as well after I got the car back together it ran better than ever no more random stalls or power drops.

  10. #25
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    protege5

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    to answer, yes coils can cause the car to misfire so badly it will eventually throw a code but not immediately. i live on a *very* muddy dirt road. when it rains it turns into a mud bog basically. I have to hit a couple of them at a pretty decent speed or risk getting stuck... when it's really deep (like a foot or more) a considerable amount of water gets where it doesn't belong and the ignition coils and spark plugs are not happy. it usually takes me about a mile down the road of doing this before the MIL comes on (if at all). It misses and stumbles really bad, never had it shut off from it but been pretty close. However, it will eventually clear itself up and run fine a few more miles down the road and a couple days/drive cycles later the MIL turns itself back off. I know what causes it so i don't worry about it, and generally i know it's going to happen before it does

  11. #26
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by minkushunter View Post
    I rent a huge garage where I do most of my work, but it is a 25 min drive. If my car makes it there, will swap out all the things mentioned so far...
    I think you should swap out your coils at home before your trip to the garage. It takes 5 minutes and it's warmer out now.
    If your car makes it the 25 minute journey without problems, you've probably fixed it.
    That way you know exactly where the problem was and you don't have to do the other stuff which could create a problem just by messing with them.
    (except plugs and wires,.. they're always a good idea)
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  12. #27
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by pb4ugotobed View Post
    to answer, yes coils can cause the car to misfire so badly it will eventually throw a code but not immediately....
    DTC P0300 Random misfire detection
    DETECTION CONDITION
    •PCM monitors CKP sensor input signal interval time. PCM calculates the change of the interval time for each cylinder. If the change of interval time exceeds the preprogrammed criteria, PCM detects a misfire in the corresponding cylinder. While the engine is running, PCM counts the number of misfires that occurred at 200 crankshaft revolutions and 1,000 crankshaft revolutions and calculates misfire ratio for each crankshaft revolution. If the ratio exceeds the preprogrammed criteria, PCM determines that a misfire, which can damage the catalytic converter or affect emission performance, has occurred.



    OK,... So what I wanna know is,..

    What is that preprogrammed criteria ??
    How many misfires are we allowed for 200 revolutions ?? 1000 revolutions ??

    Maybe dorkidori can tell me ??
    Apparently he's cracked Pandora's Box !!

    https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...t=#post6557550
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  13. #28
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    protege5

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    Quote Originally Posted by pcb View Post
    DTC P0300 Random misfire detection
    DETECTION CONDITION
    •PCM monitors CKP sensor input signal interval time. PCM calculates the change of the interval time for each cylinder. If the change of interval time exceeds the preprogrammed criteria, PCM detects a misfire in the corresponding cylinder. While the engine is running, PCM counts the number of misfires that occurred at 200 crankshaft revolutions and 1,000 crankshaft revolutions and calculates misfire ratio for each crankshaft revolution. If the ratio exceeds the preprogrammed criteria, PCM determines that a misfire, which can damage the catalytic converter or affect emission performance, has occurred.



    OK,... So what I wanna know is,..

    What is that preprogrammed criteria ??
    How many misfires are we allowed for 200 revolutions ?? 1000 revolutions ??

    Maybe dorkidori can tell me ??
    Apparently he's cracked Pandora's Box !!

    https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...t=#post6557550
    That is a good question. I know when i go through big puddles the car is misfiring BADLY. Like almost undriveable badly. And it usually clears up by the time i get a couple miles down the paved road once i reach pavement. it's 50/50 if i actually get a check engine light or not when it does happen.

  14. #29
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    It seems to allow a lot of misfiring before throwing a code.

    You're not even supposed to bump start your car, there's enough unburnt gas going through to burn out your pre-cat.
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  15. #30
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    protege5

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    Quote Originally Posted by pcb View Post
    It seems to allow a lot of misfiring before throwing a code.

    You're not even supposed to bump start your car, there's enough unburnt gas going through to burn out your pre-cat.
    lol I did that quite a bit a couple months ago when i was having battery terminal problems... didn't have the time to change them with my work/travel schedule but luckily parking garages at airports have a pretty steep grade in them Never got a code from that either, but my radio wasn't really happy with it. woudl work fine and reboot every 10 minutes or so. Will do it every time i bump start it, but never when i start it with the key. one of those things i guess

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