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- Mazda, Protege5
Intermitted Power Loss, Please Help!
- Thread starter minkushunter
- Start date
I went out and plugged in my scanner and after getting the thing "paired", I got the thing going.
It was showing me lots of info... The Torque Pro version would show me lots more info.
My scanner uses Bluetooth to connect but others use WiFi,.. Still others are for iPhone using Bluetooth or WiFi.
I don't think that makes a difference as far as what info is shown but you'd need to order the proper scan tool to pair with your phone.
I did notice that my scan tool stuck out and down towards my feet where it could get in the way or get kicked or something... The mini or micro version might be less intrusive.
PS... My temperature needle hit 72C right when it stopped moving.. That's where the needle parks itself until the engine is way too hot and it starts climbing again.
It was showing me lots of info... The Torque Pro version would show me lots more info.
My scanner uses Bluetooth to connect but others use WiFi,.. Still others are for iPhone using Bluetooth or WiFi.
I don't think that makes a difference as far as what info is shown but you'd need to order the proper scan tool to pair with your phone.
I did notice that my scan tool stuck out and down towards my feet where it could get in the way or get kicked or something... The mini or micro version might be less intrusive.
PS... My temperature needle hit 72C right when it stopped moving.. That's where the needle parks itself until the engine is way too hot and it starts climbing again.
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- Mazda, Protege5
I went out and plugged in my scanner and after getting the thing "paired", I got the thing going.
It was showing me lots of info... The Torque Pro version would show me lots more info.
My scanner uses Bluetooth to connect but others use WiFi,.. Still others are for iPhone using Bluetooth or WiFi.
I don't think that makes a difference as far as what info is shown but you'd need to order the proper scan tool to pair with your phone.
I did notice that my scan tool stuck out and down towards my feet where it could get in the way or get kicked or something... The mini or micro version might be less intrusive.
PS... My temperature needle hit 72C right when it stopped moving.. That's where the needle parks itself until the engine is way too hot and it starts climbing again.
Thanks for posting this.
So to be clear, what app are you using? and what OS?
As for the size sticking out, I planned on buying the smaller one. The ELM 327 scan tool that my friend has sticks out making it difficult to use while driving in some cars like the P5. It came with a short cable extension, but I think it would still be in the way on the P5.
I think when I was looking at the Bluetooth scan tools, I had trouble finding a small one that worked with the iOS. Or at least ones with reviews of people verifying that it works with an iPhone.
I will look today on Amazon and Ebay, if I find a small one for the iPhone, then I will get it.
Thanks again for posting this.
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- Mazda, Protege5
Thanks for your input...
It wouldn't hurt to check though, if the bolts are not too corroded, I will take off the cat and check it out.
I had a bad ECU on an old Ford. It started out with occasional random CELs looking like sensors were bad, I would test them and they would be fine. Most of them I replaced because they were so cheap on the Ford. After a few months of this, I started getting multiple CELs, many of them not making sense. I suspected the ECU, but many people in the forums said stuff like they never go bad. I got a refurb for really cheap on Ebay, swapped it, and it ran better than ever.
For the P5, I am not sure where to start with the ECU, maybe I will take it out and check to see if there is any obvious issues.
I thought of possible grounding issues due to the motor swap from a few years ago. But, I guess it could be another ground somewhere... Most of the grounding points are corroded, so this could be a problem.
On another forum I use, people talk about grounding issues a lot. On the MR2, grounding issues often lead to fires. Many times grounds are forgotten during motor swaps, and it sometimes causes fires. I think due to the battery location.
Some of the stuff that has been done so far had little to no positive effect that I have noticed, but it also was little cost and effort from me.
As for the compression, I have a kit, I might check it this weekend if I have time.
Thanks for all your input.
I can check it, but I don't think this is it for a few reasons. I experienced the issue when downpipe had a rusted out hole in it, but I have since then replaced the downpipe. Also, the current motor has very, very little oil consumption, and the fuel economy has been better than ever, so I assume I am not running rich.
It wouldn't hurt to check though, if the bolts are not too corroded, I will take off the cat and check it out.
I plan on checking the injectors out, although when I removed the last set of plugs, they looked fine. Looking at the plugs at the time of symptoms is very unrealistic for me, so I will have to figure something else out.
I thought of this. Having multiple random issues seems similar to a Ford truck I owned a while back.
I had a bad ECU on an old Ford. It started out with occasional random CELs looking like sensors were bad, I would test them and they would be fine. Most of them I replaced because they were so cheap on the Ford. After a few months of this, I started getting multiple CELs, many of them not making sense. I suspected the ECU, but many people in the forums said stuff like they never go bad. I got a refurb for really cheap on Ebay, swapped it, and it ran better than ever.
For the P5, I am not sure where to start with the ECU, maybe I will take it out and check to see if there is any obvious issues.
I double checked the grounding strap to the motor over the weekend, it was there, I check for continuity and had it. Maybe I will test for the resistance.
I thought of possible grounding issues due to the motor swap from a few years ago. But, I guess it could be another ground somewhere... Most of the grounding points are corroded, so this could be a problem.
On another forum I use, people talk about grounding issues a lot. On the MR2, grounding issues often lead to fires. Many times grounds are forgotten during motor swaps, and it sometimes causes fires. I think due to the battery location.
I kind of been doing this all ready, although everything else I have done seem to make the P5 run better. The new fuel pressure regulator got rid of the CEL I was getting, but didn't fix the stalling and power loss issue. I feel like the P5 generally runs smoother and doesn't have the hesitation since the fuel pump/filter change. Changing the pump/filter was a huge pain, but only because the screws on the retaining plate on the filter assembly were so corroded that I had to drill every one out. But, @ 150k, I think it needed to be changed.
Some of the stuff that has been done so far had little to no positive effect that I have noticed, but it also was little cost and effort from me.
As for the compression, I have a kit, I might check it this weekend if I have time.
Thanks for all your input.
I downloaded Torque App Light and it's running on an Android phone.
Oh... And it's an older phone (3-4 years) running KitKat I believe.
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- Mazda, Protege5
I received the BT scanner yesterday, and haven't had much time to play around with it yet. Around 9pm I was trying to get it working on my P5, but had issues.
It worked fine in 2 of my other cars, but it wouldn't work for the P5. I was about to give up, but decided to move the OBD2 dongle around on the P5 OBD2 port. That got it working, I just couldn't press it in all the way for some reason.
By the time I got it working, I didn't have time to do any troubleshooting, but I did notice that my long term fuel trim was a little off. Almost -10%. This was at idle. Also, the engine temp seemed a little low, 170F. Maybe it was not warmed up all the way yet, as it did warm from idle.
Anyways, I will do more this weekend.
I will update soon.
It worked fine in 2 of my other cars, but it wouldn't work for the P5. I was about to give up, but decided to move the OBD2 dongle around on the P5 OBD2 port. That got it working, I just couldn't press it in all the way for some reason.
By the time I got it working, I didn't have time to do any troubleshooting, but I did notice that my long term fuel trim was a little off. Almost -10%. This was at idle. Also, the engine temp seemed a little low, 170F. Maybe it was not warmed up all the way yet, as it did warm from idle.
Anyways, I will do more this weekend.
I will update soon.
That might be about right...
But I'm still thinking your ECT is sending inaccurate info...
I'm just thinking, you could possibly have a faulty thermostat ?? I don't know if that was mentioned yet ??
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- Mazda, Protege5
I was thinking that the ECT sending the wrong data. But, I guess the thermostat could be bad. I have no idea how old it is. It looks like the temperature gauge on the dash gets to operating temp.
I will test it some more later. I have a new ECT sensor, so maybe test before and after replacing it.
But, even if the thermostat is opening too early, or staying open a little bit, could this be causing the issues that I am experiencing? I am not sure, but hopefully, I will figure it out soon.
I'm thinking possibly a combination of both ??
You might want to replace it just for good measure.. You're changing your rad fluid anyway and a thermostat can be considered a maintenance item.
They're all supposed to be failsafe but it doesn't always work then you're risking a warped head when they fail closed.
A local parts store should have one for about $10 if you don't want to wait for shipping.
The part that's bugging me is that you've got "seasonal" issues so I'm leaning towards items more directly connected to engine operating temperatures.
Keep in mind that the gauge on the dash is a dummy gauge... It's controlled by the ECU, and the ECU maybe receiving inaccurate data, your scanner would be reading the inaccurate data too.
That sounds like a good idea... It looks like 71C is the magic number.
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- Mazda, Protege5
Good morning all,
I was test driving my P5 today, and the issues came back hard after about 15 miles of driving. I wasn't sure if i was going to make it home.
I had something new, or something that I had not noticed before, that might be able to help me figure out what is going on.
The same power loss, surging, stalling, violent jerking was happening, but I noticed that when I was coasting in gear, foot off the pedal, the power loss was happening. I never noticed this before.
Also, the RPMs would drop 1k-2k then come back up during the power loss and jerking.
I have noticed this during acceleration before, but I have never noticed this during coasting.
Could this point to something? The injectors are supposed to be closed during coasting, right? Maybe one is stuck open?
I still plan on looking at everything that was mentioned before, but figure I would mention this symptom since I never notice it before.
I was test driving my P5 today, and the issues came back hard after about 15 miles of driving. I wasn't sure if i was going to make it home.
I had something new, or something that I had not noticed before, that might be able to help me figure out what is going on.
The same power loss, surging, stalling, violent jerking was happening, but I noticed that when I was coasting in gear, foot off the pedal, the power loss was happening. I never noticed this before.
Also, the RPMs would drop 1k-2k then come back up during the power loss and jerking.
I have noticed this during acceleration before, but I have never noticed this during coasting.
Could this point to something? The injectors are supposed to be closed during coasting, right? Maybe one is stuck open?
I still plan on looking at everything that was mentioned before, but figure I would mention this symptom since I never notice it before.
It's true that the injectors shut off completely during coast in gear with foot off the clutch (I don't know if it kills spark as well ??)
But!!... As soon as your RPM's drop to idle RPM's (800 or so) the injectors kick back in. (I've done this in my car only a couple of times cause I was really bogging it).
so if your car was about to stall and the ECU interpreted this as below the threshold it would kick the injectors on... then off cause the RPM's were above 800 then bucking and kicking would occur.
But!!... As soon as your RPM's drop to idle RPM's (800 or so) the injectors kick back in. (I've done this in my car only a couple of times cause I was really bogging it).
so if your car was about to stall and the ECU interpreted this as below the threshold it would kick the injectors on... then off cause the RPM's were above 800 then bucking and kicking would occur.
So, I've been over thinking it some more and I don't think you ran your car down to 800 RPM's (it may be 1200??,... I forget,.. I'll do it again tomorrow when I'm sober). But you did mention about your grounding points being all corroded.
So,.. I'm thinking, while your at it, do the big three !!?
If your grounds are full if crap, they may not deliver proper info to your ECU. (like perhaps RPM info...)
So, removing, cleaning and reinstalling your ground points may be a smart idea ??
It's relatively easy and doesn't cost any money except your time...
(I should do this myself but I'll probably put it off till my car is as screwed up as yours...)
This is a link to the Big Three showing all the grounds for to clean...
https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/sho...unding-Kit-for-MSP&s=&highlight=1st grounding
So,.. I'm thinking, while your at it, do the big three !!?
If your grounds are full if crap, they may not deliver proper info to your ECU. (like perhaps RPM info...)
So, removing, cleaning and reinstalling your ground points may be a smart idea ??
It's relatively easy and doesn't cost any money except your time...
(I should do this myself but I'll probably put it off till my car is as screwed up as yours...)
This is a link to the Big Three showing all the grounds for to clean...
https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/sho...unding-Kit-for-MSP&s=&highlight=1st grounding
So any updates ??
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- Mazda, Protege5
No updates.
I decided to help a friend with brakes, and do some upgrades to his car over the weekend instead of working on my P5. It was his birthday, and he has been kind of down lately, so I decided to just help him out.
Since then, there has been snow.
The plan is tomorrow night, and maybe Sunday.
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- Mazda, Protege5
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- Mazda, Protege5
Over the weekend, I attempted to take my P5 to the garage that I rent, that is about 25 minutes away to install the new parts, and to tests some things. About 10 minutes into the drive The problems started, Losing power, the RPM dropping with the gas pedal down. At that point, I turned around to head home.
Shortly afterward, I was stuck at a red light, with my flashers on, and unable to get the car started again for a few minutes. I got it started, and started driving, only to have the totally power loss come back about a mile up the road. I eventually made it home, and almost crashed the P5 into the curb at my house do to losing power, and power brakes.
I think I might have to wait for warmer weather, and attempt to take the P5 to my garage. There is a long bridge I have to cross to get to the garage, and I do not want to lose power, and get stranded on the bridge.
Shortly afterward, I was stuck at a red light, with my flashers on, and unable to get the car started again for a few minutes. I got it started, and started driving, only to have the totally power loss come back about a mile up the road. I eventually made it home, and almost crashed the P5 into the curb at my house do to losing power, and power brakes.
I think I might have to wait for warmer weather, and attempt to take the P5 to my garage. There is a long bridge I have to cross to get to the garage, and I do not want to lose power, and get stranded on the bridge.
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- Mazda, Protege5
Also, another thing that I have noticed using my new OBD2 adapter for real time data, is that the "calculated engine load" seems really high at idle.
It is in the 20-30%, does that sound right?
It is in the 20-30%, does that sound right?
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- protege5
That's probably about right. That is basically giving you data on the MAF sensor. Calc load is a good way to tell if it is bad or dirty... powerbrake the car and romp the gas pedal for 2 or 3 seconds. Should be minimum around 80% if not higher. IF it is around that 80% or less then cleaning the MAF will usually perk it back up to where it should be.
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- Mazda, Protege5
Maybe there might be a problem with the circuit then. I used two different MAF sensors, and both were reading that high.
I compared it to my truck, which was reading 1-4% for calculated engine load.
