I've been having this problem for a while now and it seems to have gotten worse (possibly related to outside temperature). The car cranks and cranks and cranks and can take several seconds of cranking before it starts. Up until today it seemed like it wasn't even trying to fire the cylinders for several seconds, but once it fired it'd start pretty easily. Today (when it was OBSCENELY cold) I noticed it seemed like it'd fire and then stall. After repeated attempts to start it finally started. This happened on a "warm" start (car had been driven for 15 minutes and then let sit for maybe 5 minutes) and then re-started.
1) The fuel tank is aftermarket. It's weird. It has two problems... First, when the tank gets down to 2-3 gallons left, gas sloshes away from the pump causing fuel starvation if you make a right turn. Second, if you are trying to fill the tank, the ventilation doesn't seem to work in the last 2-3 gallons. In other words, the fuel pump auto-shutoff kicks in unless you fill very slowly once the tank is within 2 gallons of being full. Doesn't have a problem before that. Fuel tank was replaced because it was leaking.
2) The fuel pump is relatively new. I think it happened after I replaced the fuel pump (but not immediately after), but I don't have a perfect recollection. Fuel pump was replaced to try to address issues after repair #1.
3) There was a a vent solenoid in the back of the car that was stuck and throwing a code. I remember finding it with a smoker. I fixed it somehow (I think I replaced it). That was a while ago. This repair was done to address an OBD code.
4) The EGR assembly stopped working (I found out from it throwing a code). I cleaned the heck out of it and re-assembled (I snapped off two of the screws, so the plate is only held in by two screws). EGR codes went away. I don't think the problem started immediately after cleaning the EGR, but I think it did start relatively shortly after cleaning it. This repair was done to address an OBD code.
5) I had read that the air intake hose likes to rip at the bellows. I didn't believe it, so I took my hose off to look at it. In the process of removing it, it nearly ripped in half. I replaced the air intake hose. The new hose is aftermarket and was a bit of a loose fit (particularly on the throttle body end). I tightened the clamps down pretty good and I don't think its leaking any more. There was no change from replacing the hose, it might have gotten a bit worse but it also got a lot colder.... so.... probably not the issue.
There are no codes currently. Repairs listed are in the order as best as I remember. I think I first noticed the problem relatively shortly after 4, but not immediately after 4, and definitely before 5. Prior to #5, I tried driving around and looking at my fuel trims. Nothing struck me as being out of whack, so I don't think I was leaking air excessively despite having cracks/dryrot in the intake tube (no codes were registered when I replaced the hose).
The fact that it is giving me trouble starting when warm but doesn't have trouble running once started makes no sense to me. The only thing I can think is maybe there is a check valve in the fuel system which has failed which is relieving fuel pressure as soon as the car stops (or quickly after) and the car doesn't want to even try to start for a while. Although its inconsistent, sometimes it starts easier than others. If there is a way to manually turn on the fuel pump to "prime" the system prior to hitting the starter that might allow me to test that theory. Assuming there is a check valve, where is it -- in the pump itself? The only other thought I had was the EGR valve is now somehow leaking air into the intake messing with the mixture when it first starts -- but it doesn't seem to be causing much problem once it starts and I'd think if that were the problem it would be causing a problem.
1) The fuel tank is aftermarket. It's weird. It has two problems... First, when the tank gets down to 2-3 gallons left, gas sloshes away from the pump causing fuel starvation if you make a right turn. Second, if you are trying to fill the tank, the ventilation doesn't seem to work in the last 2-3 gallons. In other words, the fuel pump auto-shutoff kicks in unless you fill very slowly once the tank is within 2 gallons of being full. Doesn't have a problem before that. Fuel tank was replaced because it was leaking.
2) The fuel pump is relatively new. I think it happened after I replaced the fuel pump (but not immediately after), but I don't have a perfect recollection. Fuel pump was replaced to try to address issues after repair #1.
3) There was a a vent solenoid in the back of the car that was stuck and throwing a code. I remember finding it with a smoker. I fixed it somehow (I think I replaced it). That was a while ago. This repair was done to address an OBD code.
4) The EGR assembly stopped working (I found out from it throwing a code). I cleaned the heck out of it and re-assembled (I snapped off two of the screws, so the plate is only held in by two screws). EGR codes went away. I don't think the problem started immediately after cleaning the EGR, but I think it did start relatively shortly after cleaning it. This repair was done to address an OBD code.
5) I had read that the air intake hose likes to rip at the bellows. I didn't believe it, so I took my hose off to look at it. In the process of removing it, it nearly ripped in half. I replaced the air intake hose. The new hose is aftermarket and was a bit of a loose fit (particularly on the throttle body end). I tightened the clamps down pretty good and I don't think its leaking any more. There was no change from replacing the hose, it might have gotten a bit worse but it also got a lot colder.... so.... probably not the issue.
There are no codes currently. Repairs listed are in the order as best as I remember. I think I first noticed the problem relatively shortly after 4, but not immediately after 4, and definitely before 5. Prior to #5, I tried driving around and looking at my fuel trims. Nothing struck me as being out of whack, so I don't think I was leaking air excessively despite having cracks/dryrot in the intake tube (no codes were registered when I replaced the hose).
The fact that it is giving me trouble starting when warm but doesn't have trouble running once started makes no sense to me. The only thing I can think is maybe there is a check valve in the fuel system which has failed which is relieving fuel pressure as soon as the car stops (or quickly after) and the car doesn't want to even try to start for a while. Although its inconsistent, sometimes it starts easier than others. If there is a way to manually turn on the fuel pump to "prime" the system prior to hitting the starter that might allow me to test that theory. Assuming there is a check valve, where is it -- in the pump itself? The only other thought I had was the EGR valve is now somehow leaking air into the intake messing with the mixture when it first starts -- but it doesn't seem to be causing much problem once it starts and I'd think if that were the problem it would be causing a problem.