'15 parasitic battery drain. ABS/DSC and AT so far

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2015 Mazda CX-5 AWD
Last winter my '15 CX-5 needed a boost 6 times in a month. I took it to Mazda where they gave me a variety of reasons my battery was draining, saying I didn't start it often enough, 3rd party starter, etc. In the end they tested the battery as I had suspected and it wouldn't take a charge. They replaced it.

1 year later (now) and during this week of -30C's I needed a boost a few times. Figuring it was the battery, I bought my own. Within 19 hours the voltage dropped significantly. Using my multi-meter I found I had a 0.75A draw when the vehicle was off. Pulling fuses, I got that down to 0.30A so far. the AT fuse was pulling 0.3A and the ABS/DSC beside it was pulling 0.15A.

Dealer isn't open until Tuesday. Anything I can do? I'm also out of warranty now so I'm pissed about that.
 
Any third party accessories that are tied into those circuits? You are obviously above spec. Here is excerpt from FSM:


NOTE:

If the battery is not left undisturbed for 10 min or more, but less than 2.5 hours, the tester will indicate a high value (approx. 200 mA).
If the ignition or any electrical accessory is operated after the tester is connected, the battery must be left undisturbed for 10 min or more, but less than 2.5 hours from that point.
For vehicles with the immobilizer system, the system periodically shifts synchronization of the security indicator light flashing. Therefore, 65 mA (0.1 s) current draw is supplied when the security indicator light is illuminated, and 40 mA (2 s) current draw is supplied when the security indicator light is not illuminated. In addition, the measuring instrument, which shows the average value, indicates around 55 mA.
10. Leave the vehicle electrical system undisturbed for 10 min or more, but less than 2.5 hours, and then measure the parasitic draw.
If not within specification, measure the parasitic draw while removing the fuses one by one from the inside of the main fuse block and the inside of the fuse block.
Inspect and repair wiring harnesses and connectors of the fuse where the current draw has decreased.
Parasitic draw (When the ignition is off (lock), all doors and the hood are closed.)
40—65 mA
NOTE:
If the battery is left for 2.5 hours or more, a battery parasitic draw value of 25—45 mA is indicated.
 
Any third party accessories that are tied into those circuits? You are obviously above spec. Here is excerpt from FSM:


NOTE:

If the battery is not left undisturbed for 10 min.....

That may actually be it. I'll try again this afternoon. I did notice it would drop after approx. 10 min. I figured it was something with my cheapo meter. I'll double check what it drops to.

I do have an aftermarket starter. That's the only accessory. I had that for over a year before the first set of problems. These problems only started up with the extreme cold this week which may have made a weak battery even worse.
 
I do have an aftermarket starter. That's the only accessory. I had that for over a year before the first set of problems.

See my emphasis in bold. I went a whole winter with that starter with no problems and the following fall/mid-winter. The local Mazda dealership recommended I go aftermarket. I also called the installer this week and confirmed it uses no power when the vehicle is off.
 
Starter should take no current unless operated.

I found leaving the meter connected at least 30 mins gave an accurate reading, the car takes time for circuits to shut down. My drain was with in the mazda spec, problem turned out to be the alternator output.

For info the boot (trunk) light takes around 1 amp.
 
See my emphasis in bold. I went a whole winter with that starter with no problems and the following fall/mid-winter. The local Mazda dealership recommended I go aftermarket. I also called the installer this week and confirmed it uses no power when the vehicle is off.

"Past Performance is No Guarantee of Future Results"

If you eliminate the aftermarket starter as a possible culprit on the basis that there were no problems for a over year, then nothing can be the cause, because everything worked fine for over a year. But you have a problem, so there must be a cause.

I'm just saying that you need to keep it under consideration.
 
OP: Do you normally keep your vehicle unlocked or locked when away from it? Not sure if you have version with auto-lock feature when you walk away from it and enabled. Saw some posts on other forum where it was suggested that some parasitic draws on this vehicle can be mitigated if vehicle is locked.

I guess test to see if draw is the same hours later with doors locked versus unlocked?
 
OP: Do you normally keep your vehicle unlocked or locked when away from it? Not sure if you have version with auto-lock feature when you walk away from it and enabled. Saw some posts on other forum where it was suggested that some parasitic draws on this vehicle can be mitigated if vehicle is locked.

I guess test to see if draw is the same hours later with doors locked versus unlocked?


I lock it. Also, I do not have the proximitry entry feature. I need to press my fob or use a hard key.
 
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"Past Performance is No Guarantee of Future Results"

If you eliminate the aftermarket starter as a possible culprit on the basis that there were no problems for a over year, then nothing can be the cause, because everything worked fine for over a year. But you have a problem, so there must be a cause.

I'm just saying that you need to keep it under consideration.


I certainly am. Thats why I called the installer of it and was reassured that it does not draw power. I can try and disconnect it later as a final step. Id rather not right off the bat. Removing unecessary parts in -30 isnt fun.
 
Removing unecessary parts in -30 isnt fun.

I hear you. I can't imagine ANYTHING is fun in -30, for man or machine.
I'm just sitting here thinking about your problem, but you're out there dealing with it. I'd be pissed, too.
Hope it's something easy, or the dealer will admit his mistake.
 
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