2017 low fuel light

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2017 CX-5 GT
When does the low fuel light turn on? The wife got a CX-5 and only is on her third tank. Both times she drove the expected mileage down to about an estimated 10 miles left on the tank and the low fuel light never came on. Is this normal or may the light not be functioning?

Also, another noob question, it's an AWD. Do you need to replace all 4 tires if you have to replace one and the tire circumferences don't match (like on Subarus)?

Thanks.
 
When ever the light comes on, you still have a few litres of fuel left in the tank.

Also expected mileage is variable so even though it said you had 10 miles left, you still have quite a bit more.
 
I believe the low fuel light comes on when there is about 2.3 gallons remaining. Your manual gives the size of the fuel tank for AWD or FWD so drive till the light comes on and fill up and check gallons. However: Mazda suggests that we fill the tank when we are at 1/4 which is a good idea IMO. The Mazda AWD is not really a true AWD like the Subaru, Audi or Mercedes. The Mazda normally is a FWD until wheel slippage is detected, and then it temporally becomes 4 WD. I think the tire matching is not as critical as true AWDs. Ed
 
"The Mazda normally is a FWD until wheel slippage is detected, and then it temporally becomes 4 WD"

This is not true at all, according to my AWD clutch duty cycle observation. Do you have any data to back your claim? I mean, besides the rumors and incorrect reviews.
 
There is always a 1-2% pre-load to rear according to articles I have read. I noticed pieces in the FSM years back before i-ACTIV articles were released that there was some power being transferred to the rear at all times.
 
The AWD is working like a fiddlers elbow all the time. It consists of an oil immersed multi plate clutch on the rear axle and is engaged when a computer controlled actuator twists a set of balls up a ramp engaging the clutch.

The AWD is engaged EVERY time the car starts and then gradually disengages as the car gets up to cruising speed and the car becomes FWD. it’s true that when fully disengaged, there is some drive but this is only through slight drag in the oil. It is technically fully released. The point at which it fully releases is determined by how hard the car is being driven. It may stay at least partly engaged under full throttle. It will also be engaged when front wheel slip is encountered and is linked to the stability control and will engage under a variety of other conditions. It only connects the rear axle so both front and rear diffs operate normally across an axle. Cross axle slip is governed by the traction control so it isn’t like an off road vehicle where you can physically lock up the transmission. It is however astonishingly capable and adds to the driving dynamics of the car when driving hard. I might have a pdf somewhere.
 
.........several in fact. Remember then that the prop shaft to the rear axle is hard connected to the gearbox via the transfer box so the prop shaft is always turning.
 
Thanks Anchorman!!! A good refresher... some of these I have seen before but some new content too.
 
When does the low fuel light turn on? The wife got a CX-5 and only is on her third tank. Both times she drove the expected mileage down to about an estimated 10 miles left on the tank and the low fuel light never came on. Is this normal or may the light not be functioning?

Also, another noob question, it's an AWD. Do you need to replace all 4 tires if you have to replace one and the tire circumferences don't match (like on Subarus)?

Thanks.

While I can't give a definitive answer about your tire question, I would replace one tire with the exact same tire, brand and size. And the only way I would do one tire alone is if I had less than 10K on the tires. What you risk is damaging the drivetrain, hubs etc. Is that worth the risk? Really I would call Mazda service to get an official answer.

I drive full size motorcoaches, recently our shop neglected to match up tires on the drive axle, putting on different brand yet same size tires on the drive axle. The results were that the traction was greater and torque greater on one of the drive wheels resulting in a broken stud and destroyed the hub mechanism(had to be replaced), the remainder of the lug nuts had also loosened to less than hand tight. Even though a tire might be the same size on paper, the physical measurement can be different. I put new tires on my Xterra, same size as the previous stock tires. I was getting substantial rubbing of the fender liner. Had to dremel out some plastic.
 
When does the low fuel light turn on? The wife got a CX-5 and only is on her third tank. Both times she drove the expected mileage down to about an estimated 10 miles left on the tank and the low fuel light never came on. Is this normal or may the light not be functioning?

Also, another noob question, it's an AWD. Do you need to replace all 4 tires if you have to replace one and the tire circumferences don't match (like on Subarus)?

Thanks.

Welcome to the board.

Great questions, as I have the same.

Fuel tank light: I have a 16 AWD CX5 so don't know if the 17 has a bigger tank, but the tank seems a bit small compared to previous cars (sedans) that could go 400 miles and more highway miles on a tank. The CX5 seems to visibly go down when I reach a quarter tank so I fill up soon after that. My wife likes to wait for the light. So the answer to your question can help me determine my possible emergency response probability.

Tires: Mazda service will have the best answer, but I expect there is a spec for max tire differential. So rotating tires every 5k or so is important. (I do it with the oil change, which is on OCI setting). But a bad tire could mean all 4. And note that the spare is small to that could be an issue with a flat (how many miles before damage with a spare?). Interested in the Mazda spec if anyone has that.
 
Sorry, I never chipped in about the tyres! I know for a fact that using one worn tyre with three unworn won’t throw up a fault light and if you saw how tiny (inches smaller) the supplied spacesaver wheeel is, Mazda themselves allow discrepancies in size for “short” use.

I would apply common sense to changing tyres and if the existing tyre was up to about 30% worn I would leave it and more than that I would change a pair across an axle. In that case I would run the new ones on the front and the worn ones on the rear. That’s how I would do it. Most people in the UK don’t rotate tyres and the fronts wear to requiring renewal much quicker than the rear.
 
I'm willing to be corrected but I've only come across tyre rotation in Mazda service schedules. I've also owned Peugeot, Renault, Citroen, Seat, Skoda, Fiat (Oh God, what an experience)(headshake Rover and Triumph (Acclaim - a re-badged Honda not to be confused with motorcycles) - remember them? (UK people only) and finally a Vauxhall Chevette (nick named Shoveitt - shared with my Dad - bless him)(bow)
 
I'm willing to be corrected but I've only come across tyre rotation in Mazda service schedules. I've also owned Peugeot, Renault, Citroen, Seat, Skoda, Fiat (Oh God, what an experience)(headshake Rover and Triumph (Acclaim - a re-badged Honda not to be confused with motorcycles) - remember them? (UK people only) and finally a Vauxhall Chevette (nick named Shoveitt - shared with my Dad - bless him)(bow)
With the onerous motoring regulations the EU and UK markets are known for, I'm surprised tyre rotation is not part of the required (or at least recommended) maintenance schedules. Every vehicle I've ever owned in the US has this as part of the maintenance routine.
 
Well for starters, you never know if the same tire (sorry-tyre!) model will be available from year to year and many dont like to run mismatched rubber.
Seems like that would be an argument FOR rotation.
I was asking why NOT to rotate. I guess not giving a crap is a valid reason.
I always thought it was designed to maximize the life of the entire set of four, thereby reducing cost in the long run.
 
Mazda say rotate every 5K miles, but as wear isnt that different back to front i don't think it matters.

I change to another set anyway in summer to use the tyres before they get too old, they are on a 2013 wheel, 2012 i believe.
 
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