Thoughts on Replacing Brake Fluid every 24K per Maint Schedule??

To be honest, boiling brake fluid is a thing of the past with these modern calipers. They keep the fluid well away from the brakes pads.
 
I actually purchased one of those brake fluid testers but can't seem to figure out how to remove the mesh filter that's inside the master cylinder reservoir. The fluid is definitely below the mesh.
Has someone who's replaced brake fluid tell me how to remove it?

J3f5XLQ.jpg
 
Mazdadude...thanks... gonna pick up one of those units.

Looking in FSM... it appears the use of a dealer diagnostic unit like a Nissan Consult or Toyota Techstream isn't needed for a brake fluid swap in the CX-5. In those brands apparently ABS actuator is put in some mode to prevent air intrusion into system.
 
Modern semi sealed brake fluid system can be compromised by frequently removing the cap to check color etc because it allows moist air to get in. That is one reason BF fluid reservoirs are transparent. Ed
 
In my previous cars it was every 35,000 miles. I will stick to that schedule at the very least. Never switching in 200k? Never heard of that.
 
Nice to see in FSM that this maintenance item is as straight forward as vehicles in non-ABS era. Like I said before this is not the case for all manufacturers.
 
Europeans are kinda' bonkers about brake fluid flushes (IMO). Seems like every time I turn around it's time for a flush on my wife's Z4 BMW. And yet you guys don't bother to rotate tires. Go figure!(shrug)

Perhaps both procedures i.e. Brake fluid change and tyre rotation are a ripp off things. You guys get skinned on the rotation and we get skinned on the brake fluid. That makes us equally gullible. BMW charged me 200 euros for brake fluid change once every two years. The fluid costs only 5 euros. The dealer is the winner here.
 
Just read a similar diskussion on brake fluid change requirement in a Swedish forum and the expert opinion was that checking the boiling point on reservoir fluid does not say anything about the moisture content in the fluid downstream so change it every two years to be safe.
 
Perhaps both procedures i.e. Brake fluid change and tyre rotation are a ripp off things. You guys get skinned on the rotation and we get skinned on the brake fluid. That makes us equally gullible. BMW charged me 200 euros for brake fluid change once every two years. The fluid costs only 5 euros. The dealer is the winner here.
These are safety and preventative maintenance items, I do not think I would classify them as RIP OFFS. You do not have to do these things, just realize that you will not get full service life, or optimum performance out of the related components if you skip these maintenance items.
 
Just read a similar diskussion on brake fluid change requirement in a Swedish forum and the expert opinion was that checking the boiling point on reservoir fluid does not say anything about the moisture content in the fluid downstream so change it every two years to be safe.

This is true, once the brake fluid has absorbed as much water as it can, it becomes super saturated, and can no longer suspend water. The result is that the water is heavier and will then settle out to the lowest possible points in the system, usually inside a caliper, wheel cylinder or ABS control unit.
 
All - I used my contact @ Mazda Corporate, USA. What they came back with is not very good but then I realized almost all car manufacturers follow the same standards.

A schedule is built per country or a region usually. Averaging is done. Thus - for US and CA, which has most DRY climate brake fluid is marked as I (Inspect). However, specific dealerships have been notified to explain the need to replace in locations exhibiting high humidity - like FL (was actually given as an example) where it's more appropriate to follow the MX schedule calling for fluid replacement every 2 years.
EU - in general has higher humidity and thus defaults to 2 years.
[EDIT] - missed - recommendation: ANY DOT 3, 4 or 5.1. He's not sure but from JP factory its either DOT 4 or 5.1 depending on batch.

I got the chance to ask about more fluids - (1) ATF (2) Rear differential (3) Transfer oil. I did not ask about coolant. Here's the overall feedback

Starting 2016, the rear differential oil composition has changed. There's no need to replace every 30,000 miles but inspect only. However, as given in the schedule if submerged or witnessed high dosage of snow - then it's better to change it. Next: if vehicle is being planned to be retained/actively used beyond power train warranty then replace but never flush ever 30,000 miles.
Ditto: Transfer oil. The new rear differential oil is twice capable than the old one, details of which are proprietary supposedly. Upon asking he confirmed there's absolutely no issues for pre 2016 CX5 to use this new oil however the older generation oil should NEVER be put into 2016 and beyond.

ATF - never ever flush but recommended to change every 35,000 miles if and only if retention of vehicle beyond 120,000 miles. He said in normal temperature (no idea why temp. came into the picture here) anything between 3.4 to 3.7 quarts replaced is good.

Engine oil - absolutely no reason to change before the wrench sign comes up if 2016 and beyond.

In all cases - assumption is OEM oil is being used.
 
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Thanks to all here I have today replaced by brake fluid. The canister is a real pain to take fluid out. Anyways I used a standard DOT 3/4 fluid.
  1. Removed old fluid as much I could using turkey baster
  2. Put in new fluid
  3. Let it rip from passenger rear bleeder, easy to open
  4. Son pumps brake, a little more bleed.
  5. Close bleeder - move to next wheel
  6. Then driver rear wheel and repeat above steps
  7. Front passenger wheel
  8. Front Driver wheel
  9. In between my son kept filling when the canister went low

Then - I decided to clean all the brake pads and proceeded to do so. Overall it took me 2.5 hrs. Calipers were stuck for both rear wheel. I have more than 8 mm. life left in pads both sides, either axle. Inner pad in every axle has less than outer pad. Rear axle shows more usage than front axle.
Yes - I did follow instructions in another thread regarding EPB @ maint. mode.

Test run: No perceptible change detected yet but I always tend to overdo with the lubrication (fat fingers) and usually I've seen a difference after a few days when the extra lubrication goes off the rotors. The pedal however got less mushy.
 
Thanks to all here I have today replaced by brake fluid. The canister is a real pain to take fluid out. Anyways I used a standard DOT 3/4 fluid.
  1. Removed old fluid as much I could using turkey baster
  2. Put in new fluid
  3. Let it rip from passenger rear bleeder, easy to open
  4. Son pumps brake, a little more bleed.
  5. Close bleeder - move to next wheel
  6. Then driver rear wheel and repeat above steps
  7. Front passenger wheel
  8. Front Driver wheel
  9. In between my son kept filling when the canister went low

Then - I decided to clean all the brake pads and proceeded to do so. Overall it took me 2.5 hrs. Calipers were stuck for both rear wheel. I have more than 8 mm. life left in pads both sides, either axle. Inner pad in every axle has less than outer pad. Rear axle shows more usage than front axle.
Yes - I did follow instructions in another thread regarding EPB @ maint. mode.

Test run: No perceptible change detected yet but I always tend to overdo with the lubrication (fat fingers) and usually I've seen a difference after a few days when the extra lubrication goes off the rotors. The pedal however got less mushy.

Good work - well worthwhile.
 
I'm more concerned about getting factory fill replaced.

I wonder if contact got 2017 changes confused as part number for rear diff of '15 & '16 are the same

KAT127020A

2015

2016




Starting 2016, the rear differential oil composition has changed. There's no need to replace every 30,000 miles but inspect only. However, as given in the schedule if submerged or witnessed high dosage of snow - then it's better to change it. Next: if vehicle is being planned to be retained/actively used beyond power train warranty then replace but never flush ever 30,000 miles.
Ditto: Transfer oil. The new rear differential oil is twice capable than the old one, details of which are proprietary supposedly. Upon asking he confirmed there's absolutely no issues for pre 2016 CX5 to use this new oil however the older generation oil should NEVER be put into 2016 and beyond.
 
Changing your fluid is important, but every 24k is super excessive. Every 60k sounds good to me.

If you have 60k or more, changing your brake fluid and flushing to remove air will make the pedal more firm.
 
Changing your fluid is important, but every 24k is super excessive. Every 60k sounds good to me.

If you have 60k or more, changing your brake fluid and flushing to remove air will make the pedal more firm.

It’s got nothing to do with what sounds good to you. It’s what is documented with good reason that matters.
 
It’s got nothing to do with what sounds good to you. It’s what is documented with good reason that matters.

Would you even feel a difference changing your fluid after 24k? I know I noticed a difference changing mine after 70k..
 
Changing your fluid is important, but every 24k is super excessive. Every 60k sounds good to me.

If you have 60k or more, changing your brake fluid and flushing to remove air will make the pedal more firm.
(scratch)

There are too many other variables to use a distance like you are suggesting.

In addition, it is more of a TIME element and ENVIRONMENTAL factors rather than the distance. Replacing at 60k like you are suggesting would be just fine if you have gone 60k miles in 24-36 months. There are those who may have only driven just 10k miles in 24-36 months, and it would STILL be recommended to change the 10k mile brake fluid.
 
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