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Canadian parts supplier for Protege5 floor pans?
- Thread starter Holiday
- Start date
- :
- 02 protege5 ES 5dr
Kingsway auto in Calgary is likely, I have had good luck with that sort of thing through them before.Is there a Canadian supplier of Protege5 parts that would have floor pans? Thanks for any info.
I didn't know you could buy floor pans so I did a search and that stuff isn't cheap.... Over $1000 for the front mid and rear sections plus cross members and other rusty parts you're bound to find.
You're better off getting a new car at that point especially if you can't do the work yourself.
You probably can't get it from a wrecker because they would have to remove the interior of the car then cut out the floors.... And chances are it's as rusty as what you've already got.
The new stuff probably all comes from Japan and will be expensive regardless.
I still think you should go with fiberglass...
You basically use your existing floor pan under your carpets as a mold to build your new fiberglass floorpan on top of.
The rusty stuff underneath keeps rusting (hopefully slower because you had it under coated) but it won't affect the rust proof floor pan you made.
It's way easier, way faster and way cheaper.
I bought a 4' X 8' sheet of fiberglass weave (also called roving) from a marine supplier in Toronto for less than $50 and a liter of polyester resin is less than $20.
You're better off getting a new car at that point especially if you can't do the work yourself.
You probably can't get it from a wrecker because they would have to remove the interior of the car then cut out the floors.... And chances are it's as rusty as what you've already got.
The new stuff probably all comes from Japan and will be expensive regardless.
I still think you should go with fiberglass...
You basically use your existing floor pan under your carpets as a mold to build your new fiberglass floorpan on top of.
The rusty stuff underneath keeps rusting (hopefully slower because you had it under coated) but it won't affect the rust proof floor pan you made.
It's way easier, way faster and way cheaper.
I bought a 4' X 8' sheet of fiberglass weave (also called roving) from a marine supplier in Toronto for less than $50 and a liter of polyester resin is less than $20.
PS... Did you get your CEL read and sensor fixed??
You mean checking why my engine light? Seems it's an issue with the rear o2 sensor or something. Previous owner said he replaced the sensor but light still came on. I haven't checked into it further, didn't clear the code at the time. I have a Veepeak + android app I'm gonna check again soon.
I haven't done the undercoating yet. I was gonna wait to see what I could do about the underside first. So I have two bad spots, like 4 sq. inches on the left and right rear I noticed when my car was up on the lift where it's almost chewed completely through. Going towards the front of the car the panels are intact but a deep rusty brown. I have to check but I think the prep for the undercoating includes sandblasting the underside which would be good to try and strip away some rust. So you're saying just undercoat it and then from inside the car go under the carpets and put down a fiberglass weave with resin on top? So I'm not applying anything to the bottom of the car but the undercoating right? Does lifting the carpet mean the carpet will get wrecked requiring new carpet? How about metal mesh instead of fiberglass weave?
Thanks.
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The "undercoating" I use (Krown) is more of an oil spray. It doesn't matter if the car is rusty (and my car is). The synthetic (rubber safe) oil is thin and soaks right into the rust then right to the good metal underneath and seals it. Krown doesn't dry or harden it always stays "wet" and creeps and seeps into nooks and crannies continuously and displaces moisture as it does.
Some undercoating is touted as "dripless" which is less messy (doesn't drip on the driveway) but doesn't seep and creep or displace moisture nearly as well. It can in fact, seal moisture into the rusty areas where it just keeps rusting.
A third type of undercoating is something like truck bed liner or rubberized asphalt undercoating. That is the kind of stuff you're probably thinking of that requires sandblasting. That type of stuff works well on a new car and the car needs to be completely dirt, oil and rust free which is almost impossible for our cars at this point and it can actually make rust worse by sealing in moisture rust and salt then hiding the decay under a thick layer of "paint". This kind of "undercoating" does nothing for treating what I consider to be the critical areas you can't see like inside the doors, the pillars, cross members, frame rails, etc.
As far as weave and such goes, you'd do that from inside the car along with a nice runny, drippy, oily spray underneath. Your carpets just pull out of the way, then you just lay them back down when you're done. The fiberglass weave is also available at Walmart and Canadian Tire for about $15 for a 3 or 4 foot square which may be all you'd need. It's super flexible and can follow the ribs and humps and valleys of the floor pan easily to make a complete seal. And metal even mesh would have to be pounded and shaped to fit then holes drilled for screws or rivets. The mesh should still be covered with something solid and permanent because the biggest purpose of the patch is to seal the cabin from any possible exhaust leak from entering.
Check out this Krown video,... You may not have a Krown near you but you want a treatment that is similar... With holes drilled and spray put in.
https://youtu.be/NcgNIGqrsGU
Some undercoating is touted as "dripless" which is less messy (doesn't drip on the driveway) but doesn't seep and creep or displace moisture nearly as well. It can in fact, seal moisture into the rusty areas where it just keeps rusting.
A third type of undercoating is something like truck bed liner or rubberized asphalt undercoating. That is the kind of stuff you're probably thinking of that requires sandblasting. That type of stuff works well on a new car and the car needs to be completely dirt, oil and rust free which is almost impossible for our cars at this point and it can actually make rust worse by sealing in moisture rust and salt then hiding the decay under a thick layer of "paint". This kind of "undercoating" does nothing for treating what I consider to be the critical areas you can't see like inside the doors, the pillars, cross members, frame rails, etc.
As far as weave and such goes, you'd do that from inside the car along with a nice runny, drippy, oily spray underneath. Your carpets just pull out of the way, then you just lay them back down when you're done. The fiberglass weave is also available at Walmart and Canadian Tire for about $15 for a 3 or 4 foot square which may be all you'd need. It's super flexible and can follow the ribs and humps and valleys of the floor pan easily to make a complete seal. And metal even mesh would have to be pounded and shaped to fit then holes drilled for screws or rivets. The mesh should still be covered with something solid and permanent because the biggest purpose of the patch is to seal the cabin from any possible exhaust leak from entering.
Check out this Krown video,... You may not have a Krown near you but you want a treatment that is similar... With holes drilled and spray put in.
https://youtu.be/NcgNIGqrsGU
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Hey thanks. Currently figuring out my options in neighboring towns. A lot of crazy pricing, like $400 just for the undercoating, and it looks like if I want the rust underneath scrubbed out I'll have to do it myself. I'll look into getting some fiberglass weave and resin, perhaps some Bondo. As far as the wire mesh I was looking at the Bondo Self-Adhesive Body Patch.
I checked out the mesh and a video and it looks like that would work. It does look kind of stiff though and might not do 3D bends easily.
I'd still do it from inside the car though... If you do it from underneath, I'd worry about cleaning the area to bare metal and ending up with a 12" hole... You'd be laying on your back working up in all that rusty mess with bondo dripping in your face. I'd also worry about the patch falling off within a year.
With an oily type of undercoating, the rust is actually kinda good. The oil soaks into it and makes a thick coating of protection on top of the good metal.
I'd still do it from inside the car though... If you do it from underneath, I'd worry about cleaning the area to bare metal and ending up with a 12" hole... You'd be laying on your back working up in all that rusty mess with bondo dripping in your face. I'd also worry about the patch falling off within a year.
With an oily type of undercoating, the rust is actually kinda good. The oil soaks into it and makes a thick coating of protection on top of the good metal.
Would rubber coating be oil based?
I'm not sure but oil based products dissolve rubber, like the little rubber boots on the ends of the parking brake cables.
I remember spraying and old car of mine myself with 10w30 and the boots swelled and turned to mush.
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