4WD Stop Vehicle At Safe Area Message and Shudder/Clunk/Skip Sounds, Need Help.

Kato

Member
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Mazda CX5 Grand Touring
On a '14 Grand Touring, it started a few days ago, the AWD feels like it's skipping and shuddering from the rear, under hard acceleration it sounds like something is going to break or snap. Front feels like it skips when the wheel is turned under slow speed. Today the message "4WD Stop Vehicle At Safe Area" came on and went off after a couple of minutes. Does not sound good so what's the bad news??
 
About Mazda.
If your CX5 is out of warranty by a little, you can call MazdaUsa and plead your case to them.
MazdaUSA is usually very helpful if you call with the right attitude.

For example:
My co-worker had a super-capacitor failure (for GT's i-eLoop).
Dealer quoted her $500 for part, and $170 for labor.
She was all ready to pay for it.
Her car was also a few Ks miles beyond 36K.
Lucky for her, she told me about this, and I told her to plead her case to MazdaUSA.
She easily got MazdaUSA to pay for the part, and she paid for the labor.
That was the deal.
In the end, dealer did not even charge her the labor. Go figure.

For owners like me who owns 3 Mazdas and 1 more before them, this is even easier.
Last time, I had abnormal wear on the brake pad of the left-rear corner. (30% left while the right side is 70%)
I called MazdaUsa, they paid for the labor. I paid the part. (pad is cheap)
It only took me a couple minutes to explain that I am a fan of Mazda. :)

Wish you the best.
 
Last edited:
About Mazda.
If your CX5 is out of warranty by a little, you can call MazdaUsa and plead your case to them.
MazdaUSA is usually very helpful if you call with the right attitude.

For example:
My co-worker had a super-capacitor failure (for GT's i-eLoop).
Dealer quoted her $500 for part, and $170 for labor.
She was all ready to pay for it.
Her car was also a few Ks miles beyond 36K.
Lucky for her, she told me about this, and I told her to plead her case to MazdaUSA.
She easily got MazdaUSA to pay for the part, and she paid for the labor.
That was the deal.
In the end, dealer did not even charge her the labor. Go figure.

For owners like me who owns 3 Mazdas and 1 more before them, this is even easier.
Last time, I had abnormal wear on the brake pad of the left-rear corner. (30% left while the right side is 70%)
I called MazdaUsa, they paid for the labor. I paid the part. (pad is cheap)
It only took me a couple minutes to explain that I am a fan of Mazda. :)

Wish you the best.


Thanks.....unlike my Xterra that had a R/F brake failure at 1,700 mi, they would do nothing, called it a wear item. I even offered to pay for parts but no go. I have an Allstate extended to 100k so it should be covered with a $100. deductable. So far they say it's the rear diff...front was acting funny too.
 
If this happens, can you pull a fuse to disengage the rear differential from operating and let it act as a non-powered open differential? If it is an electronic coupling that engages the rear, then pulling "the fuse" should prevent the rear diff from receiving power.

similar to pulling the Stability control fuse when you want 100% burnout power with no nanny intervention.

I'm just asking if it can be done. I haven't checked my fuse block lately to even know if there is a rear diff fuse.
 
If this happens, can you pull a fuse to disengage the rear differential from operating and let it act as a non-powered open differential? If it is an electronic coupling that engages the rear, then pulling "the fuse" should prevent the rear diff from receiving power.

similar to pulling the Stability control fuse when you want 100% burnout power with no nanny intervention.

I'm just asking if it can be done. I haven't checked my fuse block lately to even know if there is a rear diff fuse.

the lower amp abs fuse (15a?)will stick the car in fwd mode. It also disables abs, dsc and turs a bunch of lights on. also you have to hold the ignition to turn the car off. the ABS/DSC 30 fuse disables the dsc and abs, and SCBs only.
 
the lower amp abs fuse (15a?)will stick the car in fwd mode. It also disables abs, dsc and turs a bunch of lights on. also you have to hold the ignition to turn the car off. the ABS/DSC 30 fuse disables the dsc and abs, and SCBs only.

Good to know, it was really squirrely(?) in the snow, could not get up an icy driveway. Maybe that would have helped.
 
A little bit of "very light" braking while still on accelerator on icy driveway may help. This can speed up shifting of traction to a wheel with grip.
 
A little bit of "very light" braking while still on accelerator on icy driveway may help. This can speed up shifting of traction to a wheel with grip.

I think it was only in FWD on it's way up...wheels just spun.
 
I think it was only in FWD on it's way up...wheels just spun.

Counterintuitively, turning traction control OFF sometimes helps in slippery situations.

But it sounds like you've got a serious malfunction that's got to be fixed.
 
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