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Thread: Rear passenger clunk ?

  1. #16
    2012 CR Mazda5 Touring 90210's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by mazdadude View Post
    I agree with Silentnoise713...

    If you drove around with the swaybar discoed and still made the clunk, then not going to be swaybar bushings. And when you had your swaybar discoed you should have been able to feel any play in the sway bushings then.

    I think that if it went away with shock removed, then your noise would be limited to the upper shock mount, lower shock mount, or the shock itself.
    Thank you guys for your help

    The links and the bushing felt fine to me, and I have been doing things to eliminate the issue.

    I have the BIlstein replacement. The shock rebounds perfectly, no issues in driving. How could I tell if the shock is bad? I will order the upper shock mount today. It visually looked fine, but maybe that is where the problem is.

  2. #17
    Registered Member Silentnoise713's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by 90210 View Post
    Mechanic thought there was a washer where shock meets shock mount ( I didn't have that during install), and he said it is moving around there clearly. After putting the washer, noise is down 50%, but it still there. Thus I am leaning towards new shock mounts?
    It's probable it could be the 'top' mount but I'm not so sure...

    The lower shock mount is actually a physical part of the trailing arm - the 'box' for a lack of a better word. The Bilstein come with bushings that should fit SNUG into the 'box', which the pass through bolt secures by clamping the box against the bushing against the training arm. If the Mechanic notice there's a gap, then the bushings are wrong length (err, width?). This is the same limitation with using Volvo V50 shocks, the bushings are smaller where you need to add a wash or two (or thicker). You can likely add 'another' washer (both sides) and really tighten the thru bolt to lock it down. If it is indeed a bushing issue, call Bilstein US. They are very reasonable and may be able to help you source a proper bushing (or you can measure yours with a dial caliper and shop online).

    NOTE: Measure the width of the Bilstein bushing. Go to kyb catalog and look up the specs for Mazda 5 rear shock bushing and V50 rear bushing. Which one is closer to yours?
    Last edited by Silentnoise713; 01-29-2018 at 05:23 PM.
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  3. #18
    ZOOOOOOOOOM ZOOOOOOOOOOOM mazdadude's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by 90210 View Post
    Thank you guys for your help

    The links and the bushing felt fine to me, and I have been doing things to eliminate the issue.

    I have the BIlstein replacement. The shock rebounds perfectly, no issues in driving. How could I tell if the shock is bad? I will order the upper shock mount today. It visually looked fine, but maybe that is where the problem is.
    Those upper shock mounts can fail in such a way that the isolated rubber mount will lift out of the rest of the mount, allowing the nutted shock assy to flop up and down. I would almost always recommend swapping these with new ones when you install shocks. (unless under 3yr 36kmiles on them).

    If the shock absorber can be grasped and twisted in the lower shock mount with any play or slop, you will feel clunk. I like silentnoise713 idea of washer or bushing.
    Last edited by mazdadude; 01-29-2018 at 01:24 PM.
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  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by mazdadude View Post
    Those upper shock mounts can fail in such a way that the isolated rubber mount will lift out of the rest of the mount, allowing the nutted shock assy to flop up and down. I would almost always recommend swapping these with new ones when you install shocks. (unless under 3yr 36kmiles on them).

    If the shock absorber can be grasped and twisted in the lower shock mount with any play or slop, you will feel clunk. I like silentnoise713 idea of washer or bushing.
    I bought my car new at 2011. Everything is original It has 89K miles now. At 87K miles I did the shocks. Rear were fine, front were leaking. Changed all at once.

    Shock absorber cannot be twisted in the lower shock mount, and there is no play there.

  5. #20
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    The bottom
    box" is tight and there is no play or movement there.


    Mechanic added a washer to the top of the shock where it mounts to the body. He said that is the part that is rattling....

    Quote Originally Posted by Silentnoise713 View Post
    It's probable it could be the 'top' mount but I'm not so sure...

    The lower shock mount is actually a physical part of the trailing arm - the 'box' for a lack of a better word. The Bilstein come with bushings that should fit SNUG into the 'box', which the pass through bolt secures by calming the box against the bushing against the training arm. If the Mechanic notice there's a gap, then the bushings are wrong length (err, width?). This is the same limitation with using Volvo V50 shocks, the bushings are smaller where you need to add a wash or two (or thicker). You can likely add 'another' washer (both sides) and really tighten the thru bolt to lock it down. If it is indeed a bushing issue, call Bilstein US. They are very reasonable and may be able to help you source a proper bushing (or you can measure yours with a dial caliper and shop online).

    NOTE: Measure the width of the Bilstein bushing. Go to kyb catalog and look up the specs for Mazda 5 rear shock bushing and V50 rear bushing. Which one is closer to yours?

  6. #21
    Registered Member Silentnoise713's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by 90210 View Post
    The bottom
    box" is tight and there is no play or movement there.


    Mechanic added a washer to the top of the shock where it mounts to the body. He said that is the part that is rattling....
    Ok. Just to be clear, the shock ‘mounts’ to the shock mount (one nut); the shock mount ‘mounts’ to the chassis (two nuts). I’m guessing you mean where the shock mounts to the top shock mount? If so, likely the mount (rubber) is bad. Doesn’t hurt to add a lock washer when you put it back together. Thankfully that is cheap and easy to do. Hope that’s the end of it.
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  7. #22
    2012 CR Mazda5 Touring 90210's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Silentnoise713 View Post
    Ok. Just to be clear, the shock ‘mounts’ to the shock mount (one nut); the shock mount ‘mounts’ to the chassis (two nuts). I’m guessing you mean where the shock mounts to the top shock mount? If so, likely the mount (rubber) is bad. Doesn’t hurt to add a lock washer when you put it back together. Thankfully that is cheap and easy to do. Hope that’s the end of it.
    absolutely correct

    I apologize if I was not clear before

    Yes I meant where the shock mounts on the top to the top shock mount. I do think that rubber is worn. Mechanic thought it was ok but after seeing lots of video on you tube it seems it’s hard to tell when ok or bad. We added a lock washer there to the old mount. Noise decreased. Thus I think replacing that upper mount (rubber) will solve the issue

    I will work on it two weeks

  8. #23
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    Same here..bought Bilstein .....and clunk ! I suggested do not buy a billig rear schock mount not original , but instead add a simply washer.20180130_184626.jpg
    Last edited by xiqueuba; 02-07-2018 at 02:17 AM.

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by xiqueuba View Post
    Same here..bought Bilstein .....and clunk ! I suggested do not buy a billig rear schock mount not original , but instead add a simply washer.20180130_184626.jpg
    I added the washer exactly as you suggested. Clunk has lessened, but still there

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by 90210 View Post
    I added the washer exactly as you suggested. Clunk has lessened, but still there
    add one more?

  11. #26
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    I have been allowed to return the Bilsteins for a different set of rear shocks. Debating on what to get.

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vasy View Post
    add one more?
    I will do that Tuesday. What do you think? Should I replace the Bilsteins with another set of rear shocks instead ?

    SACHS?
    KYB?
    55105 or the GR2-Excel G
    Last edited by 90210; 02-07-2018 at 03:22 PM.

  13. #28
    2012 CR Mazda5 Touring 90210's Avatar

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    Well 3 months of clunk has finally been solved

    Do not get rear bilstein for this car

    I installed new rear shock mounts today
    Clunk was there
    I added washers clunk was there

    I decided to swap the rear shocks out again and went KYB, Walah clunk gone

    DO NOT BUY REAR BILSTEIN FOR 2012+ MAZDA5

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