K & N air Filter...worth the price?

Considering I live in the desert, I can attest that the AEM's actually really do protect the MAF from dust. The protection is there. Think of it as a cleanable OEM filter that other than allow you to rev more freely produces same HP/TQ as stock. Worth $30 to me.

Cleans with mild soapy water.
I searched Amazon for a Mazda Cx-5 OEM air filter and I found one for $18. Not sure if that is a good price or if people can find it cheaper. At a price of $18, it means that after just two air filter changes, which probably equates to 40k miles, you would have already saved some money with the AEM air filter. Well at least that's how it looks to me.
 
I searched Amazon for a Mazda Cx-5 OEM air filter and I found one for $18. Not sure if that is a good price or if people can find it cheaper. At a price of $18, it means that after just two air filter changes, which probably equates to 40k miles, you would have already saved some money with the AEM air filter. Well at least that's how it looks to me.

Exactly how I looked at it as well.
 
What makes the Cosworth filters better than the K&N or even the AEM dryflow air filters? The AEM dryflow air filters don't need to be oiled. Just wash and dry.

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This question is not really aimed at you Unob, but for everyone, how much do you all pay for an OEM replacement air filter for your CX-5? And where are you buying them?


The Cosworth filters are a dry filter, and they use a synthetic medium that filters VERY well, while still also flowing well, loading up well, etc. Sadly, I don't think they make one for a CX5 yet.

http://www.cosworth.com/products/performance-parts/air-filters/car-air-filters/
 
I don't believe switching to a K&N will yield a failed engine due to lower efficiency.
Most engines these days fail from some other reason or other parts of the vehicle fail before dust wear causes an engine to fail.
You'll lose performance(i.e. compression) faster, but I would say it's rare that the engine would fail altogether from a lower efficient filter.
I will still stick with the OEM style filter for 2 main reasons: maintain the performance as long as possible and I would never see the payback.




Why are you replacing a standard style filter every year?

Most vehicles now-days rot around the engine. How often has a CX5 Skyactiv engine failed on this forum? The transmission and other parts? Okay...
 
K&N filters? Never, ever - ever again!! Here's why:
Just like going on here in this thread went thru the same where some say - great, some - so-so and some - no, never. Anyways - bought it.
1st urban myth de-mystified within 3000 miles: NO gains to mpg. Absolutely - nothing.
2nd. urban myth de-mystified: Engine sound is quieter: NO. Just a tad different.

Now - let's talk specifics. Manufacturers have zero incentives to make customer come back for air filter change. In fact, most manufacturers have given up even on oil changes and making a profit from it. Only dealerships push these. So: why won't ANY manufacturer install these by default? Think from marketing stand-point - the ad reads - air filter for life! Reason: see below:

Initially - when new it'll work well. After the 1st. clean where you're supposed to clean it with a specialized oil - if you don't do it properly and that too - 100% properly there'll be oil residues all over the air throttle area/MAF sensors/etc. Its a HUGE risk for manufacturers when within warranty.

In my case - my Toyota Corolla and my 4Runner suffered significantly. There were oil residue with gunk around throttle plate and I had a tough time cleaning it up. Next my MAF sensor in Corolla got shot and had to be replaced ; 4Runner: survived. My trusted mechanic threw them away and said never use these junk. BTW: he does NOT charge ANYONE for air filter replacements as long as you have one.

In CX5 - you're required to change it around 30k miles. That's like NOTHING. Especially when the OEM paper filter's SO DAMN GOOD.

Lastly - when it comes to cleaning the K&N - i find it more troublesome. Quite like buying a permanent coffee filter vs. the paper cones. For me - conv. is very important. Takes less than 5 min. to swap the filters, if paper and upwards of 30 min. for K&N and as per some forums - perhaps overnight for the oil to dry/disappear before putting it back in.

Worst case - take a $3 pressurized air can and clean the WIK filter - have done it and it works really good.
 
Initially - when new it'll work well. After the 1st. clean where you're supposed to clean it with a specialized oil - if you don't do it properly and that too - 100% properly there'll be oil residues all over the air throttle area/MAF sensors/etc. Its a HUGE risk for manufacturers when within warranty.

In my case - my Toyota Corolla and my 4Runner suffered significantly. There were oil residue with gunk around throttle plate and I had a tough time cleaning it up. Next my MAF sensor in Corolla got shot and had to be replaced ; 4Runner: survived.

Well my friend, I agree about the power and gas mileage gains: mythical, yes.
I've used K&N's for ten years, and still have one in my 2002 Pathfinder.
At no time did I have, or do I have, oil contamination on the MAF's or throttle bodies....ever.
It's only a risk if you don't clean and oil them properly.
If this is what happened to you, then it's your doing, or your mechanics' doing. Don't blame the filter dude.
 
Seriously, as stated before, if you follow the instructions for oiling the filter and if you do it properly, you will not have any MAF issues with it.

The definition of convenience can be subjective. I think its convenient that you don't have to buy new air filters, just and wash and let it dry and reinstall. Other people think its convenient to buy new paper filters and install every 20k miles or so.
 
Also remember there's no magic filter. if it flows better, than it filters less and vice versa. No matter what.

I just use plain old OEM ones and change them regularly.
 
Well my friend, I agree about the power and gas mileage gains: mythical, yes.
I've used K&N's for ten years, and still have one in my 2002 Pathfinder.
At no time did I have, or do I have, oil contamination on the MAF's or throttle bodies....ever.
It's only a risk if you don't clean and oil them properly.
If this is what happened to you, then it's your doing, or your mechanics' doing. Don't blame the filter dude.

Buddy - that's what I wrote. Maybe, wasn't clear. Yes - I cleaned the filter and obviously didn't do a good job. However, is it a risk worth taking? Youtube videos or otherwise showing how-to, I still consider it a risk and YMMV - its a risk (for me) not worth taking. That's another reason why manufacturers avoid it. And the time and effort to have it properly cleaned? Not worth it, in my book, again: YMMV.
 
Buddy - that's what I wrote. Maybe, wasn't clear. Yes - I cleaned the filter and obviously didn't do a good job. However, is it a risk worth taking? Youtube videos or otherwise showing how-to, I still consider it a risk and YMMV - its a risk (for me) not worth taking. That's another reason why manufacturers avoid it. And the time and effort to have it properly cleaned? Not worth it, in my book, again: YMMV.

Hey, no problem. I actually agree with what you are getting at.
I doubt very much if I'll go the K&N route with my new 6.
 
For Mazda CX-5, it's 30k miles, which is a significant increase. There are threads here where folks changed at 35k and filter was dirty but not horrible condition.

I just double-checked the maintenance schedule and it says that for a 2016 CX-5, following schedule 2, you replace the air filter at 35k miles. That's good that they increased the maintenance interval on it so people who prefer oem filters can save some money on the replacements.
 
Funny dealer pushed engine air filter after 20k miles. I might get AEM since mazda oem is only 5 bucks cheaper.
 
Also remember there's no magic filter. if it flows better, than it filters less and vice versa. No matter what.

I just use plain old OEM ones and change them regularly.

For $35 on amazon the AEM dry filter not only flows better than OEM, protects really good too. When I inspected the inside of the stock air box (top side) post filter, I was expected tons of dust after 40k miles using the AEM. It was actually clean to my surprise.

I think it filters down to 1 micron. A human red blood cell for reference is 5 microns.
 
K&N and AEM are the same company now.
I also stand by my little statement there. A new paper cone cost 16 bucks, flows better than a dirty K&N or AEM and is so easy to replace, that I'd rather not pay twice as much to filter less.

My car is turbocharged, so the air is not having trouble flowing. I don't think I'd pick up the 1/3rd of an HP or whatever K&N claims anyway. :)
 
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