Starting with the easy stuff: Low Hanging Fruit
The noise, vibration, and pull (NVP) occur at 60 and above and occur both with all electronic gizmos on AND off (LKAS, cruise, radio, HVAC).
I've got 2,400 miles on the car and there is no consistent pattern for when it does and does not occur.
That's interesting. I don't expect HVAC to be at issue here, however. "60 and above" starts to resemble a possible Wheel Balance problem (trying to find an easy fix for ya here). An Alignment issue is something I would expect symptoms to persist down through lower speeds as well and not merely show up at or above 60. Again, indicative of a Wheel Balance problem. Vibration coming from a tire is by definition cyclic and subject to rotational speeds and could become "harmonic" at or within a particular speed range. For you, that might translate to what you feel or hear as a higher rate of cycles per second coming form the out of balance condition.
Let's hope it is this easy.
If I had this problem, the first thing I'd do (based on your description of the issue thus far) is simple Tire Rotation. REMEMBER: You have an AWD vehicle. So, I'd rack the vehicle, move the rears
straight to the front without crossing and then
cross the fronts as I move them to the rear (checking for OEM installed balancing weights on the inside of each wheel). If you notice weights missing, that's something to treat before you remount and test drive. Standard AWD or Rear Drive Tire Rotation Pattern 101.
If all the weights are present and accounted for, the rotation will place the suspect wheel and its tire on the Right Rear corner of the vehicle (following the tire rotation pattern above). If the vibration shifts to the right rear, then I've likely found the problem and will use the DIY shop's Tire Balancer and sticky weights to correct - then test drive to verify (you may have to learn how to use a Tire Balancer - no big deal at all). If that does not solve the problem and I still had vibration coming from that left front corner, then it is highly unlikely to be an issue with tires or wheels and more likely a problem originating somewhere from as low as the nut plate to as high as the strut assembly top nut. Anything along that path could be causing this problem and that includes all of the left front corner suspension and drive components. That was the low hanging fruit. From here it gets slightly more interesting and the DIY skill sets requires increase slightly as well.
Digging Deeper:
For the more difficult to get to fruit, vibrations of this kind could also come from the Engine itself. Specifically, Engine Mounts near the left side. Check that. But, I'm doubting that's the case here based on how you describe the problem.
Commonly, vibrations of this kind are being emitted from somewhere in the CV Joint Assembly (Inner and Outer), Drive Shaft Assembly and/or Control Arm Assembly (anything loose?). If you rack the vehicle, the first thing I would check is the Drive Shaft (Left Side) by hand. Try to rotate the Shaft back and forth by hand. Is there excessive play in the Shaft (tolerance should be fairly tight)? Is there oil leaking onto the Shaft or CV Boot? As you rotate the Shaft by hand back and forth, do you hear noises coming from inside the CV Boot itself?. If you detect excessive play in the Shaft coupled to grinding or clacking noise coming from the CV Joint, that problem needs to be solved - then test drive to verify.
A quick check on the Outer CV can be done in a parking lot with sufficient space. Roll down your windows - all 4. Turn steering wheel to one side until it locks-out and slowly allow vehicle to make its turn. Do you hear a ticking noise coming from the Left Front Corner? Turn steering wheel to the other side and check for the same. The Inner CV is typically a problem on firm acceleration usually resulting in vibration on the side with the bad CV. A bad Inner CV can also have fleeting symptoms (sporadic or inconsistent) depending on severity of failure and degree of acceleration. This could be why you experience symptoms inconsistently (you are not always accelerating the vehicle up to 60 mph). These should be repairs that any Intermediate skill level could do with the right support (correct parts, facility, tools, equipment, etc.).
As always, you want a reliable (current) source for good parts identification when doing any DIY repairs. Failing this self-diagnosis and the ability (facilities, tools, equipment, etc.) to fix, I'd be headed to the dealer. However, I would not be happy about it.
I'm not a fan of dealerships in general, but they seem to be more than willing to work with me. The dealership is near my house, so finding time that I can get there while the highways isn't clogged with traffic is a PITA. They've said I can call anytime to come over and take a ride with a technician.
I you have a competent, friendly, helpful dealer who abides by the principle "First, Do No Harm," then you've got yourself a real ally there. You should enjoy every minute of time you spend with that kind of dealer. A real gem, if you can find one like that. However, for me, I have no such option readily available where I live.
