Help figuring out my P2243 issue

jamesyb

Member
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2011 Mazda 3 white touring
Hi all , have a 2011 2.0 Mazda 3 auto with 160000km. Mostly highway use moderately agressive driving.

FWIW Haven't changed oil in too long but the volume of oil is good.

No previous issues save damaging ABS during a suspension swap a year ago TBH have never fixed it but, no performance issues that entire time. Alignment needed cants to the left slightly.

Swerved around a drive that dipped into my lane and rev out fast to avoid rear ending. Car threw a P2243 but no issue or performance change after driving home about 45 min highway time. Ran my neighbours OBD2 when home and had 2 codes. P2243, and P2243 P. Had done a few big revs and no issues so reset ECU and drove it around fine for a while.

Drove the whole next day to work without any perceived issues, my commute is about 2.5 hours roudntip in varied conditions so not a short haul.

Wife took it out next day and said it felt off... she then had a catastrophic flat in an intersection (unavoidable pot hole) and pulled over about 50ft ahead where safe. Tire half off rim. Told me burning smell present.

Louded up the jackstands and big jack in our scoob and threw the donut on. After turning car back on Code was back. p2243. Car shuddered for a while then settled.

Driving home (about 1km) and it felt like it was 500-750 too high on the rev range. Half way the CEL came on again. Got it parked and three codes. "P2243", N/A, P2243 P"

DIdn't smell like rotten eggs when swapping tired but vague scent from exhaust. May have been in my head.

What are thoughts, did i blow the CAT? or is it just a shotty 02. Should i just put winters on so the donut is off, order new 02 sensor both up and downstream, replace oil and reset ECU? Should this solve it at this point.

Money tight with kid and christmas so really not wanting big shop fees if i can do it myself. CAT cannot do myself.
 
Well, most likely your upstream 02 sensor is bad, you don't have to spend $200 for an OEM 02 sensor, you can get one online (amazon for example) for less than $50 that will work just as well.

This video may help

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5HYQjfnJYdM

Thanks. Wasn't likely gonna do oem. We only use this for commuting mostly now (big fam). A little pricier in Canada but rockauto may help.

Would I need to do downstream sensor too, or just the upstream?

Hope I didn't damage the catalytic converter 😥
 
My experience with other cars has been that the fronts fail first. I never had to replace a rear so you may want to replace the front, only. Sometimes a specific tool is necessary to prevent stripping of the sensor's hex geometry. If needed, many auto parts stores will lend you one for free. A deposit is typically required, but that is returned when the tool kit is returned.
 
Thanks. Wasn't likely gonna do oem. We only use this for commuting mostly now (big fam). A little pricier in Canada but rockauto may help.

Would I need to do downstream sensor too, or just the upstream?

Hope I didn't damage the catalytic converter ��

The p2243 code is for the front sensor (upstream), if the rear (downstream) was bad then you would most likely get a code for that one too.

If the cat is damaged you would most likely get a code for it.
 
My experience with other cars has been that the fronts fail first. I never had to replace a rear so you may want to replace the front, only. Sometimes a specific tool is necessary to prevent stripping of the sensor's hex geometry. If needed, many auto parts stores will lend you one for free. A deposit is typically required, but that is returned when the tool kit is returned.

Thanks. I can get a 3/4 inch socket wrench adapter for this for 14.99 so may just do that.

One last dumb question. bank 1 sensor 1 is the one located at the back of the engine near the cockpit, vetrically kind of below the dipstick on the 2.0 correct?

Previously only really worked on my old ranger so all I really know is the old Vulcan 3.slow engine.
 
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