Cluster Calibration

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NaturalFlavored

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Mazda P5
Anyone know how to? I'm having issues with the temp gauge, I turn it on and it just shoots up. It was working fine until I took the cluster out. I haven't driven with it yet but the tach and the fuel look to be correct at idle. Can't seem to fix the temp, it just wants to be pinged out at hot.
 
Disconnecting your battery may reset it..

You can check your cluster for codes...

Screenshot_2017-11-30-23-57-38.png


Screenshot_2017-12-01-00-03-17.png
 
pcb said:
Disconnecting your battery may reset it..

You can check your cluster for codes...

Screenshot_2017-11-30-23-57-38.png


Screenshot_2017-12-01-00-03-17.png
Click to expand...

Disconnecting the battery on a new car wth all our fancy electronics is never a good idea. Use this only as last resort.
 
Disconnecting the battery is the first step in diagnosing the cluster.

It's the first step in almost every procedure for our car.

I've even disconnected the negative battery terminal with the car running with no ill effects. (Old school alternator test)

I do like how you refer to our car as "new"...
Mine sure feels like a rusty old turd...
 
Didn't help. I tried following those steps too and I could get past the part where it said push the odometer three times. Doesn't do anything
 
You could try turning on your dome light while your battery is disconnected to make sure the system is drained.

You can erase you engine codes this way too but everybody would wait at least ten minutes.

Make sure your door is open while the battery is disconnected.

Remember, you've only got 30 seconds to get to your ignition after reconnecting the battery.
Don't push your buttons too fast, just sorta "firmly".

Check your room fuse too... And the others too... I remember there is a fuse under the hood that messes up the gauges if blown. (I forget which fuse and what gauges ??)


I remember putting my cluster into input/output mode a few years ago... You could see all the gauges moving to verify that they are working properly.
 
Last edited:
You could have a problem with your ECT sensor or the wiring but it doesn't sound like you were messing with any of that and you should pop a code if that were the case.

If you can get into input/output mode, you can verify if your gauge is working properly or getting bad information.

You may have a bad connection on the pin of the connector on your cluster that leads to the temp gauge.
 
This one...

Screenshot_2017-12-02-12-22-24.png


You can make sure it's working by turning your dome light to "door" and see if the light flashes when you push the button.
 
I watched the video and it does appear that your temperature gauge isn't working properly.

I believe that once you're at I/O mode #25, the indication is supposed to be at 00 as you saw and stay there (if it says err, it's definitely broken).

Then it's supposed to go to H, stay there for two seconds, the go to Center for two seconds, then cold for two then back to hot.
Then it says ( fixed ) which I believe means it stays fixed in the hot position. ??

Your gauge gets pinned past hot and stays there...
It looks like it is trying to go to cold but only goes to the hot line, then back to pinned.

I don't believe the temperature input signal has anything to do with the test mode... It should behave as described regardless of engine temperature.
 
I'm pretty sure your temp gauge has crapped out and you need a new cluster.
But if the rest of your gages are working, you may want to just ignore that gage and get a separate temperature gauge... You could get a standalone gauge or install a tablet on your dash with all kinds of gauges using the Torque app and an Elm 327 OBDII scan reader like what Jackie Chan did... Check his build thread.

Our temperature gauge is a useless piece of crap anyways... It's a dummy gauge operated by the ECU and never moves beyond the halfway mark until it's WAY too hot.... By the time you notice that tiny little gauge is reading "hot", your head's already warped.
 
Replacing the entire cluster is probably your best bet. They are really delicate and easily broken.

Replacing just the temp gauge in your cluster, may not fix your problem.... Your gauge does have a full range of motion and it may not be mechanically broken. It may be software or a computer chip in the cluster that's failed ??


It could still possibly be a bad connection on one of the connectors going into the cluster ???
I'm just guessing that the input is ignored during the Input/Output test...
You could try disconnecting and reconnecting the connectors to see what happens.
 
Yeah going to swap my clusters out and see what happens, if it still persists I'm going to make sure my wires are not loose on the Plug, if not then if it doesn't effect the engine then I'll probably just leave it alone.
 
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