Third time is the charm.

:
02 protege5 ES 5dr
Okay, so third time out trying to gently remove the shift linkage. I have clear access top and bottom. I can even fit a puller on the pin, however it is NOT moving.

I am open to suggestions that are gentler than the cutting wheel approach I have taken in the past ( at some point I will be assembling something somehow... ).

How have you all sorted this out historically ?
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If it were me, I'd cut off the little tab that is locking the square head in place... then you can get a wrench on the square head to rotate it and break it free, then pound the pin on the others side.
There's lots of meat on the square head to grab on to.

If you just cut both ends of the pin off, you'd have to drill and tap both sides to reattach it.
 
The engine mounts have that square head with a locking tab as well.
The tabs aren't necessary, you just need to hold the square while you tighten the nut on the other side.

I don't know what parts you want to reuse but cutting the tab off doesn't wreck anything.

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If it were me, I'd cut off the little tab that is locking the square head in place... then you can get a wrench on the square head to rotate it and break it free, then pound the pin on the others side.
There's lots of meat on the square head to grab on to.

If you just cut both ends of the pin off, you'd have to drill and tap both sides to reattach it.
Yeah, that had not occurred to me, I was thinking of drilling out the top, and bolt at the bottom and spreading the bracket. I would like to reuse the shift linkage. I can maybe hammer out the pin with the transmission removed. As this is my end goal of the worlds slowest teardown.

I have until the weekend to think about it. I appreciate your input.
 
If the trans is coming out, slip a sawzall blade between the linkage/yoke and cut the pin. Pound out the remnants while the trans is out, install a new bolt and bushings, and drive on.

I'd try slicing the tab and turning the bolt like PCB suggested first though.
 
If you just cut both ends of the pin off, you'd have to drill and tap both sides to reattach it.

EDIT: I forgot about the plastic bushings... I was thinking a metal pin seized in metal but that should push out if you cut both ends.

PS... There are these replacement urethane bushings available and they're a buck or two a piece.
I'd never spend $50 for bronze oil...

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...and drive on.

Yeah I guess that would work, funny you both mention the tab, as I have a front mount exactly like PCBs picture. Just undid the bottom nuts and pulled 'er up.

Again thanks for input been staring at this for a day or so. Applying liquid wrench all the while.
 
I am open to suggestions that are gentler than the cutting wheel approach I have taken in the past...

I'd go with the sawzall blade over the cutting wheel if it comes to it...

A cutting wheel in that area has all kinds of edges to catch on and explode the disk into your face.... A sawzall blade isn't as wide and is easier to steer.
 
I'd go with the sawzall blade over the cutting wheel if it comes to it...

A cutting wheel in that area has all kinds of edges to catch on and explode the disk into your face.... A sawzall blade isn't as wide and is easier to steer.
Oh I like the idea of less explosions, in my face. Off rotation tomorrow, will apply suggested techniques over the weekend. Lol next to tackle is swaybar and end links, I have been wrenching since October some time and have been able to pull one strut out ( so so glad I am doing this for love, not money. I would be one broke ass mechanic ). Those I likely will cut ( or break the nuts ).

Again thank you all for your suggestions.
 
Oh I like the idea of less explosions, in my face. Off rotation tomorrow, will apply suggested techniques over the weekend. Lol next to tackle is swaybar and end links, I have been wrenching since October some time and have been able to pull one strut out ( so so glad I am doing this for love, not money. I would be one broke ass mechanic ). Those I likely will cut ( or break the nuts ).

Again thank you all for your suggestions.

Sawzall works best for those too.
 
Get some quality brand name blades for it... Makes a big difference.

I'd personally try cutting the tab off with a cutoff wheel (grinder), I just wouldn't want to reach into the yoke with a cutoff wheel.
 
Okay, so to quote Borat "great success!"

So what did it was drilling out centre of the pin from the square top, cutting the square top, cutting the remainder of threaded portion where the nut was seated and using the pilot hole to centre a punch and hammering it through.

Whew. And now that its 3:30am. Sleep.

Thanks for all the suggestions.

It's funny, after removal it still baffles me why this was so seized.
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So it sounds like all your cutting was on the outside of the yoke which I figure is best because you wouldn't have hacked up the inner surfaces where the pin and bushings go.

Did you end up using a saw or cutoff wheel ??
 
This is me trying to drill out the center of a pin...
lol...

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Lol, yeah used a high-speed drill with carbide bit. Made like a drill press and lucked out.

As for cutting, I did in fact use a cutting wheel ( like an eff'ing surgeon ). The reciprocating saw was out of stock at princessauto. Lol. As you said I cut the outside of the yoke, and was able to preserve that tab ( cause I could ).

And cause pictures or it didn't happen:

Finally got that boat anchor out..
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