No Crank, No Start, Help Please!

nyyankees2k3

Member
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2002 Mazda Protege5
I have a 2002 Mazda Protege5, that has been dead for a week now. I drove the car to two locations the other day about 10 miles apart. After trying to leave the second location, the car would not start up at all. I had no previous signs of any problems whatsoever. Here is everything I have done so far.

1) When I try to start the car and turn to on position, it does not do anything. I hear no noise at all. The dash comes up, radio works, AC works. Also, when I keep the headlights on, they are fully bright and do not dim at all when I turn the key.

2) I had the battery checked, it was fine.

3) I checked all the fuses, they are all okay. I tested the ignition switch fuse, and put 12 V to it, and did hear a click noise every time I put the voltage on it. I assume this is good.

4) The first thing I thought to replace was the starter. I got a fantastic deal on a brand new one, so I figured I would try that first. After I took off the old starter, I had that tested at an auto parts store, and it was fine. I also had them test the new starter, and that was fine also. Since I had already spent all the work to get the old one off, I went ahead and put on the new one on even though that's apparently not the issue.

5) Next, I got a new ignition switch. I put that in, and it still does not work.

6) The next thing I will try to do on Thursday will be, new ignition coil's and new a new starter relay just in case. Even though I tested it and heard click noise.

7) I also bought a neutral safety switch. It seems like a pain to replace, because I have to get under the car again, and seems hard to align it. So I am debating on taking it to a mechanic before I attempt to replace that, if my #6 does not work. *Keep in mind, I did try starting the car in neutral and that didn't work either.

So, if you got this far, thank you for reading my problem, I am hoping anyone else has any other suggestions.
Thank you!
 
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Get a voltmeter and check power a the starter motor.

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Do you have a trans axle range switch or a clutch and neutral switch ???
 
I don't have a clutch, since it's an automatic. I thought I had a neutral safety switch.. I am not sure.. how would I know??
Where did you get those pictures from? I have the links online to a service manual, but I didn't see anything like that in the book.
 
Your trans axle range switch probably crapped out so your car doesn't know when it's in P or N.

Inspect and measure your trans axle range switch.

What part number is that trans axle range switch??? I thought it was the same thing as the neutral safety switch so I bought a "Standard Motor Products NS199 Neutral/Backup Switch" did I buy the wrong part??

Thank you very much
 
Test the B/R at the starter motor for+12 V..

Then test the B/Y wire for +12 V when the key is turned to the "start" position.

If the B/Y wire doesn't turn positive,it probably isn't getting through the TR switch.
 
What part number is that trans axle range switch??? I thought it was the same thing as the neutral safety switch so I bought a "Standard Motor Products NS199 Neutral/Backup Switch" did I buy the wrong part??

Thank you very much

Before you throw another part at it, inspect it.

Make sure there is movement at the TR switch and that the cable didn't snap or disconnect.
 
okay, thanks for the tip.. that is the right part though right?

The car is at my dads house, so I will work on it tomorrow.. do you know to test it? with that diagram (i was looking at the same thing), do you have to be under the car?
 
The manual transmission uses the clutch switch in the pedal as the safety interlock...

There is a neutral switch (so the ECU and cruise control know what going on) and a reverse switch (for reverse lights) on the manual transmission.


You'll need to install the new Trans axle Range Switch and adjust it... It's kinda involved...
Download the PDF to learn what to do.


http://web.archive.org/web/20050226195744/http://protege5.ugly.net:80/05-17.PDF

Make sure your cable didn't break... Check for movement...
 
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... do you know to test it? with that diagram (i was looking at the same thing), do you have to be under the car?

Test for continuity through the switch in different gears,using the chart...
And yea... You'll have to crawl under your car...

PS.. Sometimes the cable stretches and throws off the alignment...
Try holding the key to start position while running the gearshift through all positions... Something might line up and allow a start and help you diagnose the problem.

Remember, the trans may be in gear when your TR switch lines up... Don't run over your dad... Keep your foot on the brake and the wheels in the air..
 
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Seems like a pain in the ass to replace that switch and adjust it. I don't know if I will be able to figure it.
I am going to try the ignition coil and relay tomorrow, if that doesn't work, I'm going to have to towed to a mechanic.

thanks for the help
 
Seems like a pain in the ass to replace that switch and adjust it. I don't know if I will be able to figure it.
I am going to try the ignition coil and relay tomorrow, if that doesn't work, I'm going to have to towed to a mechanic.

thanks for the help

Does your engine turn over ?? Try to start ??
 
Does your engine turn over ?? Try to start ??

No it doesn't. I turn the key, dash comes on, nothing starts, no noise at all. I think I'll hear the starter relay click or something, but there are no sound.

In your personal opinion, is the neutral switch harder/easier to take off versus the starter. The starter was a b**** to get it under the car, but was I got it off it was easy to put on. It just seems like aligning the neutral switch and doing all the stuff is going to be difficult, while under the car. I am only jacking it up, and putting it on jack stands, so I don't have that much room.

Hopefully if it costs me under $200 it will be worth the time to have someone else replace it. I just hope its not like the fuel pump or something. But I thought that would be bad if you here it about to starter, and it doesn't turn on. Which is not my case, since I hear nothing at all.
 
In your personal opinion, is the neutral switch harder/easier to take off versus the starter. ..

I'd say the TR switch would be easier... But it's different,... Your using an ohmmeter instead of a wrench.
(I've never had either off and my car is standard...)

You simply unplug a connector under your car and measure continuity ( ohms) across different terminals to test it.

The bolts and connections are right there in front of you as far as I know.

If you're not familiar with a multimeter then this could be confusing to test.

I'd say just try to replace the switch.... Don't even bother testing it (you have a new one anyway)...

If you can't finish,.. take it in...
It's gotta be towed either way...

I've heard that getting the starter motor out is a PITA... Something about hidden bolts you have to get to blind...
 
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If your engine doesn't turn over then coils have nothing to do with your problem.

Tr switches have a tendency to wear out intermittently...
Yours died all of a sudden...

That leads me to think that he shifter cable may have fallen off or broken.. (unless the physical contact inside the switch just fell apart)
 
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