Might have lost my timing belt.
- Thread starter P5freek
- Start date
Here's a link to the how-to for a T-belt change.
There's a link to the FSM in there as well.
(Edit... The FSM link doesn't work anymore... It goes to porn now)
https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123796676-How-To-Protege-Timing-Belt-Change
There's a link to the FSM in there as well.
(Edit... The FSM link doesn't work anymore... It goes to porn now)
https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123796676-How-To-Protege-Timing-Belt-Change
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Somebody posted that picture After I did my timing belt.
It really would have helped.
I had wrenches on the cam pulley bolts, holding one with one hand and the other with my elbow while pushing the T-belt on with the other hand...
What a PITA....
Apparently there's a special tool to hold everything but it's made of plastic and there's so much cam pressure that it would bend.
people have broken belts at highway speeds and their engines were okthey're non interference engines
Actually its a non-interference engine that can evolve into an interference engine.
With time, the connecting rod bearings can wear at both ends allowing the piston to throw just a bit further and hit a valve.
It's very rare and I know of only two guys that bent their valves.
All the timing belt kits list our engine as interference.
- :
- protege5
mind did the same thing at about 190k miles. I bought a new belt at o'reilly for $30 and had it running a few hours later. That was about a year, and 50k miles ago. to this day no problems.
i would either invest in an impact gun, or get a good chain wrench to break the crank pulley bolt loose. impact gun is best, but alternatively you can use a nice chain wrench around the pulley to break the bolt loose with a breaker bar. wrap an old belt around the pulley so the chain wrench doesn't damage the pulley and you're good.
i would either invest in an impact gun, or get a good chain wrench to break the crank pulley bolt loose. impact gun is best, but alternatively you can use a nice chain wrench around the pulley to break the bolt loose with a breaker bar. wrap an old belt around the pulley so the chain wrench doesn't damage the pulley and you're good.
Some guys had someone in the car holding the brakes on while in gear, to hold everything.
Or,... The fun way is to put the breaker bar on the pulley bolt, rest the handle on the ground (making sure it's on the correct side) then go and hit the key to start position for a second.
I threaded a bolt in where the SST would attach then wedged a bar in between for counter torque.
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- protege5
lol i just used an impact guy. Then the harbor freight harmonic balancer puller made easy work of removing the pulley
I have a Matco 1/2" drive ratchet that the handle is about 36" long (maybe more, it looks like a putter with a deep socket in it). No need for a breaker bar here! I do the same thing on Tacoma/4Runner/Tundra/SEquoia timing belts. Set it on the driver's frame rail and bump the starter, easiest bolt you've ever broken loose
mazdadude
ZOOOOOOOOOM ZOOOOOOOOOM
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- '16.5 Mazda CX-5 Touring
That is great to hear! Zoom zoom!
31N007
31N007
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- Mazda Protege5
I presume you did not end up replacing the water pump?
When's the last time you did the thermostat? Mine (again, my fault) got slow to open towards the end of its life and a new one solved the "its running slightly warm" issues.
Glad to hear it all went well and you're on the road again!
When's the last time you did the thermostat? Mine (again, my fault) got slow to open towards the end of its life and a new one solved the "its running slightly warm" issues.
Glad to hear it all went well and you're on the road again!
When's the last time you did the thermostat?
What about your coils don't neglect your coils... They go bad in the worst way (engine misfire)...
They're a real PITA for our car,.. They can be bad brand new out of the box...
They might be the only part I'd recommend OEM replacement.
Mine are Beck-Arnley... Been working great for me.
Apparently Polish coils are good ones...
