Might have lost my timing belt.

P

P5freek

Member
:
2002 Protege5
Went around a corner, engine went dead all warning lights came on. Engine turns over has spark and fuel. It felt like a belt sliped and let go. I'm thinking timing belt. Made it 166k on original belt.


Thoughts?
 
Pull the oil cap and observe the valvetrain moving or not moving during cranking. (popcorn)
 
I had 20.5 teeth go on my belt. Towed home, total work time over three days was around 3 hours. Didn't replace water pump as they are stout things and no issues with motor since then.

Gates timing kit from RockAuto and away you go.

I got to 214k on mine. Didn't believe PO when he said belt hadn't been replaced. Till it went. Lol
 
KingOfSpades007 said:
I had 20.5 teeth go on my belt. Towed home, total work time over three days was around 3 hours. Didn't replace water pump as they are stout things and no issues with motor since then.

Gates timing kit from RockAuto and away you go.

I got to 214k on mine. Didn't believe PO when he said belt hadn't been replaced. Till it went. Lol
Click to expand...


Any engine damage?
 
Nope. Haven't run another compression check to confirm but it pulls as well as it did now 2k miles after belt was replaced.

I tried to start it a bunch of times too. Difference I had was that it was idling in a parking lot, but that shouldn't matter overly.
 
people have broken belts at highway speeds and their engines were ok :) they're non interference engines
 
I'm of that thought too but so many some have experienced otherwise so I thought that I should share the conditions under which mine went just in case anyone find this in the future.
 
Last edited:
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^^ I was just about to pull a leaf from PCB's book and post exactly that.

What I did when mine was out of time was took a long thin metal rod and stuck it in cylinder 1. Belt off I rotated just the crank till cyl 1 and 2 (and 3 and 4) were about halfway up/down the cylinder. Then I individually timed the intake and exhaust cam, rotated the crank back to TDC, and threw the belt on. These motors are quite easy to time compared to the BP for example, where it seems that there's more force on the cam lobes so you really have to fight to hold the gear in place.

I paint mark the belt on the crank and both cams, then when I put tension on the crank, I can see if the timing marks (ones that are machined into the pulleys) have moved. Then, if the machined marks have moved, I know which way to clock the pulley that has moved in order to fix the issue.
 
You should consider getting the entire T-belt kit.
My pulleys were pretty wobbly at only 120,000 km and it would suck to have your water pump start leaking and have to do all that work over again to install a new one.
The water pumps tends to start leaking through a worn bearing then get coolant all over your belt.
 
pcb said:
You should consider getting the entire T-belt kit.
My pulleys were pretty wobbly at only 120,000 km and it would suck to have your water pump start leaking and have to do all that work over again to install a new one.
The water pumps tends to start leaking through a worn bearing then get coolant all over your belt.
Click to expand...

I'm getting a whole kit off rock auto, im not just doing the belt.
 
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