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Thread: 2010 CX-9 Touring Install Log

  1. #1
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    2010 CX-9 Touring Install Log

    After the untimely demise of my Honda Pilot, I'm going to be reinstalling most of the gear I had in that car into my CX-9.

    My CX-9 is a Touring model without Bose. At this point, my plan is to install the following over the next few weeks as I get time:

    Head unit: Kenwood KMM-BT318U media player
    Front speakers: JBL GTO609c components
    Front tweeters: Dayton ND25FN-4 1-inch silk dome
    Rear speakers: Factory, only turned on when the kids are riding back there and want to hear their music
    Subwoofer: Kicker 40CWS124 12" Comp S in a prefab box (for now
    Amplifier: MTX Thunder 4244 4-channel
    Last edited by mzmtg; 10-09-2017 at 11:02 AM.
    2010 CX-9 Touring

    2003 Toyota Sequoia SR5

  2. #2
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    This week's project is getting the front speakers installed and running off the OEM head unit.

    I'll just be mounting the Dayton tweeters into the factory tweeter mounting plate in the dash, here:

    20171004_183909 by ben.garner, on Flickr
    Last edited by mzmtg; 10-09-2017 at 10:12 AM.
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  3. #3
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    Got the Dayton tweeters installed into the factory locations using the JBL GTO passive crossovers tapped into the factory speaker wiring. The JBL crossover passes a full range signal to the woofer by design, so the OEM door speakers are still getting a full range signal. The tweeters are crossed at about 5 kHz with a 12 db/oct slope.

    20171015_135208 by ben.garner, on Flickr

    20171015_135157 by ben.garner, on Flickr

    20171015_154012 by ben.garner, on Flickr

    20171015_154021 by ben.garner, on Flickr

    This shot is looking up from under the dash towards the tweeter location. As you can see, it is wide open. I was able to reach my whole arm up in there. The driver's side is a little more crowded, but still has LOTS of room to work.

    20171015_154028 by ben.garner, on Flickr

    Crossover tapped into the factory wiring at the passenger kickpanel area. The driver's side was done similarly.

    20171016_115322 by ben.garner, on Flickr

    Tweeter connections.

    20171016_123020 by ben.garner, on Flickr

    Driver's side tweeter mounted.

    20171016_123158 by ben.garner, on Flickr
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  4. #4
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    I got the JBL woofers mounted to the Scosche SA68 adapter plates for the front doors. I used foam gasket tape to isolate the speakers from the adapters. I used some of the self-tapping screws that came with the JBL set for fasteners.

    I have read several reviews online saying that the Scosche adapters do not actually fit 6.5" speakers. Well, they definitely for the JBL 6.5" woofers just fine.

    20171015_173106 by ben.garner, on Flickr

    20171017_204014 by ben.garner, on Flickr

    20171017_204022 by ben.garner, on Flickr
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  5. #5
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    The speakers are now mounted to the doors with rope caulk isolating the adapter from the door panel.

    20171019_123511 by ben.garner, on Flickr
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  6. #6
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    Added some foam to seal the gap between the speaker and the door panel:

    20171020_130755 by ben.garner, on Flickr
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  7. #7
    Registered Member Srad600's Avatar

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    Looks clean, nice install. Curious why you decided not to connect the tweeter using the factory wiring?

  8. #8
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    Any updates? I have the same year CX-9 and I'm contemplating swapping out the stock stereo in my wife's CX-9 for something more modern.

    I was hoping to leverage your experience...

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by jal142 View Post
    Any updates? I have the same year CX-9 and I'm contemplating swapping out the stock stereo in my wife's CX-9 for something more modern.

    I was hoping to leverage your experience...
    Updates?

    Hell yes!

    Finally got back at it last week.

    I got the main power wire run & started working on the head unit wiring.

    20171228_151334 by ben.garner, on Flickr

    20171228_152202 by ben.garner, on Flickr

    20171228_152143 by ben.garner, on Flickr

    I'm using the Metra 70-7903T vehicle wiring adapter and the 40-HD10 adapter for the powered antenna.

    20171229_102336 by ben.garner, on Flickr

    (Using the Posi Twist connectors till I finalize things like whether or not rear speakers get head unit power and installing a steering wheel control integrator....hey at least they're not regular wire nuts...)
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  10. #10
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    I installed my trusty old MTX Thunder 4244 under the driver's seat.

    Man, I hate this black carpet. It doesn't show stains, but it shows EVERY speck of dirt, sand or whatever else is laying around. It seems impossible to keep clean.

    First, clearing out some room to work:

    20171231_132134 by ben.garner, on Flickr


    Ground point under the B-pillar trim in a factory threaded hole (That OEM wiring harness retainer can just dangle ):

    20171231_134043 by ben.garner, on Flickr


    I did slice a new hole in the carpet for running wires over to the door sill area:

    20171231_140938 by ben.garner, on Flickr


    Front speaker wires & the turn-on lead run forward with the main power wire. The subwoofer speaker wire runs to the rear under the rear door sill trim:

    20171231_141535 by ben.garner, on Flickr


    RCA cables come from the center console area, under the carpet:

    20171231_145311 by ben.garner, on Flickr


    All wired up with the amp velcro'd to the carpet (Front of the car is at the bottom of the photo):

    20171231_145858 by ben.garner, on Flickr


    With the seat back in:

    20180101_091556 by ben.garner, on Flickr
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  11. #11
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    Head unit is in and running. It turns out I did not need the power antenna adapter that came with the kit.

    I am happy with how easily and securely the Mazda interior pieces come out and go back together. Nicely done.

    20171231_144227 by ben.garner, on Flickr


    The Metra wiring adapter includes a side connector so that the OEM head unit can be plugged back into the car with the aftermarket unit still in place. Why? Because the only way to adjust the clock in dash is with the buttons on the OEM unit. I located the side connector behind the fuse & filter access panel in the back of the glove box.

    20171231_144533 by ben.garner, on Flickr


    Here's the Kenwood in the Metra dash kit. The Metra piece matches the finish on the OEM dash really well. Unfortunately, the little pieces and trim rings that actually mount the head unit to the adapter don't match. Still pretty decent overall.

    20180101_091524 by ben.garner, on Flickr


    The bluetooth mic sneaks out here by the steering column.

    20180102_123708 by ben.garner, on Flickr
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  12. #12
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    New toy came in yesterday The Dayton IMM-6 calibrated microphone.

    Maybe now my "tuning" can be just a little more rigorous than, "Hmm, I think this sounds better now..."

    20180102_175400 by ben.garner, on Flickr
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by mzmtg View Post
    The Metra wiring adapter includes a side connector so that the OEM head unit can be plugged back into the car with the aftermarket unit still in place. Why? Because the only way to adjust the clock in dash is with the buttons on the OEM unit. I located the side connector behind the fuse & filter access panel in the back of the glove box.

    20171231_144533 by ben.garner, on Flickr
    Does the AC still work without the OEM head unit installed? I thought there was an issue with this, where the HVAC controls went haywire without the head unit installed.

    The other thing that is lost is the ability to cycle through the functions of the LED display, correct? For instance, you can't get to the current mileage, distance to empty, etc.... Also, by doing it this way, you lose the steering wheel buttons, correct?

    Have you considered the PAC RP4-MZ11 adapter? I think that is supposed to keep the steering wheel buttons, and also allow you to adjust the clock and control the LED display.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by jal142 View Post
    Does the AC still work without the OEM head unit installed? I thought there was an issue with this, where the HVAC controls went haywire without the head unit installed.
    No issues with the HVAC at all. Fully functional.

    Quote Originally Posted by jal142 View Post
    The other thing that is lost is the ability to cycle through the functions of the LED display, correct? For instance, you can't get to the current mileage, distance to empty, etc.... Also, by doing it this way, you lose the steering wheel buttons, correct?
    Correct, I have no way to cycle through the trip computer functions in the display. I have also lost my steering wheel audio & phone controls for now.

    Quote Originally Posted by jal142 View Post
    Have you considered the PAC RP4-MZ11 adapter? I think that is supposed to keep the steering wheel buttons, and also allow you to adjust the clock and control the LED display.
    Right now, I'm leaning towards the Metra Axxess ASWC-1 to restore the steering wheel controls. Still haven't pulled the trigger on that yet, though. The Axxess unit auto-detects the vehicle & aftermarket radio being used and sets up the button programming automatically. The Axxess also lets you re-map the steering wheel buttons to different radio functions if you want. It can also do dual programming of the buttons, giving each button a second custom function on a long-press.

    Last edited by mzmtg; 01-10-2018 at 12:59 PM.
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  15. #15
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    I've spent the last couple of weeks tuning the sound in the CX-9 using my Dayton IMM-6 mic and a free windows program called Room EQ Wizard (REW)

    I've been posting the process over at DIYMA

    This is what's gone down so far:

    Quote Originally Posted by mzmtg
    Here's where I've gone so far trying to make the best of what I have. I'm looking for any tips or constructive criticism.

    My system is passive 6.5" components up front & a 12" sub in the back of the car. It's powered by a 4-channel MTX amp with the rear channel bridged to drive the sub. My headunit is a Kenwood that has all the tuning features of the midrange Kenwood & JVC units these days.

    The main tools I use are:
    13-band graphic EQ (range is +/- 9db per band)
    Digital Time Alignment (distance & gain adjustment for each channel)
    Crossovers ("Tweeter crossover" is actually an adjustable high pass shelf filter with frequency adjustment and seperate L & R gain)

    I am not using any of the other adjustments like loudness, bass boost, subwoofer level control, "stage EQ", "sound realizer" and so on.

    Install log is here: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...stall-log.html

    I'm using the Dayton IMM-6 calibrated mic in my Android phone and the Audio Tool app for measurements.

    I'm generally following Andy W's approach he's been writing up on the AudioFrog Forum: Time Alignment Part 5: Putting it all together

    First, I set all my amp gains using an o-scope to watch for clipping. I used -10db sine tones, 1KHz for the front and 40Hz for the sub channel.

    The passive crossovers cross my mids & tweeters about 4.8kHz with a 12db slope. My mids are high-passed at 80Hz with a 24db slope. My subwoofer is low-passed at 70Hz, 24db.

    Then I used Erin's site to set up my time alignment. Here are my measurements and the site's calculations:
    Capture by ben.garner, on Flickr

    From there, I tweaked the left and right side values to move the image more to the center using pink noise pops.

    My final time alignment settings are:
    Front Left: 3.73ms
    Front Right 2.8ms
    Subwoofer: 0.0ms

    Next I used uncorrelated pink noise & the Dayton mic to adjust the subwoofer gain down at the amplifier until it's volume at the driver's seat matched the front channels.

    Setting the Audio Tool app to 1/3 Octave & playing the uncorrelated pink noise, here's my uncorrected response:
    Screenshot_20180209-100710 by ben.garner, on Flickr

    Then I used the headunit EQ to raise the bass level back up using the "Bass Extend" function. This turns the bottom EQ band (63Hz) setting into a shelf filter that raises or lowers all the frequencies below 63Hz.

    Again using the mic and uncorrelated pink noise, I adjusted the other EQ bands to minimize any peaks that I could. I also used the the head unit "tweeter crossover" to bring down everything above 4kHz just a tiny bit.

    My EQ settings so far (all filters have a Q of 1.35):
    20-63 Hz: +9
    100 Hz: +4
    160 Hz: -8
    250 Hz: -7
    400 Hz: +6
    630 Hz: -3
    1 kHz: 0
    1.6 kHz: -6
    2.5 kHz: -3
    4 kHz: -2
    6.3 kHz: -4
    10 kHz: -2
    16 kHz: +5

    Here's the response I'm at so far with EQ:
    Screenshot_20180209-101025 by ben.garner, on Flickr

    All that being said, the system definitely sounds better than it did before all this. I'm most impressed with the subwoofer integration using Andy's advice. It's blended into the front MUCH better than I was ever able to achieve trying to adjust the subwoofer's time delay to match its phase with the front.

    So, thoughts from anyone?
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