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Thread: Struts blown at 85,000 miles ?

  1. #91
    2012 CR Mazda5 Touring 90210's Avatar

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    Well 3 months of clunk has finally been solved

    Do not get rear bilstein for this car

    I installed new rear shock mounts today
    Clunk was there
    I added washers clunk was there

    I decided to swap the rear shocks out again and went KYB, Walah clunk gone

    DO NOT BUY REAR BILSTEIN FOR 2012+ MAZDA5

  2. #92
    Booga Booga? phunky.buddha's Avatar

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    Probably had a defective shock- happens sometimes, regardless of the quality of the brand. I still trust Bilsteins overall. I would send it back for a refund since you've swapped to another brand. Both KYB and Bilstein are quality OEM level brands.

  3. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by phunky.buddha View Post
    Probably had a defective shock- happens sometimes, regardless of the quality of the brand. I still trust Bilsteins overall. I would send it back for a refund since you've swapped to another brand. Both KYB and Bilstein are quality OEM level brands.
    Shock was perfectly fine

    Talked to them
    They send me a new shock

    Same clunk

    Been dealing with it 3 months

    The design on top mount is incorrect

    Look at my other clunk thread. Another guy in Italy after buying B4 bilstein in rear developed same clunk


    I love bilstein

    All my other cars have bilstein

    On my mazda5 front has bilstein
    Rear bilstein on this car is problematic
    Last edited by 90210; 02-17-2018 at 04:01 PM.

  4. #94
    Registered Member Silentnoise713's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by phunky.buddha View Post
    Probably had a defective shock- happens sometimes, regardless of the quality of the brand. I still trust Bilsteins overall. I would send it back for a refund since you've swapped to another brand. Both KYB and Bilstein are quality OEM level brands.
    +1 granted I can see how it leaves a bad impression on an owner.

    Also, I though you mentioned everything was working fine for a little bit until you had a rear fender bender? That's when the noise creeped up, no?
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  5. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by Silentnoise713 View Post
    +1 granted I can see how it leaves a bad impression on an owner.

    Also, I though you mentioned everything was working fine for a little bit until you had a rear fender bender? That's when the noise creeped up, no?
    Yes. After I installed the B4, all was fine for 450 miles. After rear ender, noise came. Don't know if it was result of that, or the shock settled.

    But I have tried everything since then to be fixed. New rear B4, from Bilstein, new shock mounts, nothing helped. Noise was ONLY gone, when rear shocks were taken out. Thus the new Bilsteins were making the clunking.

    As you saw from other posts, guy in Italy bought the same B4, and he had same clunk from day one.


    Now that I swapped KYB on OLD shock mounts, no noise. I went ahead and changed all the shock mounts anyways on the rear.

  6. #96
    Registered Member Silentnoise713's Avatar

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    I can't quite make sense of this.

    You put in new B4, no noise for 450 miles.
    You put in replacement (but brand new) B4, noise right off the bat?


    I still think knocking noise is indicative of poor mounting/mating surface. Did you have a look/compare the diameter of the B4 piston vs OEM (where it mates the top shock mount)? I wonder if the piston (or the threaded part) is too large or small, making contact against the shock mount's metal casing. I can only speculate. Glad you've moved on. KYB gas-adjust monos should be good for the rear.
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  7. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by Silentnoise713 View Post
    I can't quite make sense of this.

    You put in new B4, no noise for 450 miles.
    You put in replacement (but brand new) B4, noise right off the bat?


    I still think knocking noise is indicative of poor mounting/mating surface. Did you have a look/compare the diameter of the B4 piston vs OEM (where it mates the top shock mount)? I wonder if the piston (or the threaded part) is too large or small, making contact against the shock mount's metal casing. I can only speculate. Glad you've moved on. KYB gas-adjust monos should be good for the rear.
    I couldn't make sense of it either. Almost was ready to sell the van, noise was so EFFIN annoying. Chasing it for 3 months as you guys see.

    Yes Bilstein said first shocks bad, thus sent replacement, which was noisy from mile 1 (more clunky than original B4)

    B4 rear piston is too small, and makes that contact, that is the issue. Its a design problem.

    I prefer Bilstein for rear (as I have Bilstein on other cars and love them for over 20 years). that said couldn't live with noise. KYB (never owned these), solved it on the rear.

  8. #98
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    How far down did you push the strut into the knuckle? The bilstein front struts did not have an indicator of far to go down unlike my original and kyb. I have some rubbing of my moog end links again the frame of car when I turn right. The left side is fine.

  9. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by cameradude View Post
    How far down did you push the strut into the knuckle? The bilstein front struts did not have an indicator of far to go down unlike my original and kyb. I have some rubbing of my moog end links again the frame of car when I turn right. The left side is fine.
    I don't recall exactly how far I pushed the strut into the knuckle. I will have to look at it again. I have put exactly 20,000 miles in 13 months since the install. Not a single rubbing. Then again, I have OEM end links on mine.

  10. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by 90210 View Post
    I don't recall exactly how far I pushed the strut into the knuckle. I will have to look at it again. I have put exactly 20,000 miles in 13 months since the install. Not a single rubbing. Then again, I have OEM end links on mine.
    Here's a pic to show what I'm talking about.

    One thing I did noticed was the total strut length on both of the bilstein's was longer too. Like almost 3 inches longer! I initially thought maybe my original struts had lost some of the length due to age (118,000 miles). I checked the ride height of my sisters car (same year and model and age, different tires and only 55,000 miles). Measure from ground to the bottom of the front bumper, her's was 8.5 inches. Mine is almost 9.75 inches. So definitely higher. I slid my low profile jack under and it definitely has more room.

    I can't recall how far the original strut was in the knuckle but pretty sure it wasn't all the way in since there was some rust at the bottom of the knuckle and I sanded it to hopefully have it slide in easier (I did not sand enough). I stuck my finger in the bottom of knuckle (approx 1 inch) and it seems the bilstein was at approx the same depth into the knuckle as my original.

    Hopefully you haven't put on your winter tires yet and can take a gander at the strut and post back

    Edit: attachment should work now
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by cameradude; 11-05-2018 at 01:29 AM.

  11. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by cameradude View Post
    Here's a pic to show what I'm talking about.

    One thing I did noticed was the total strut length on both of the bilstein's was longer too. Like almost 3 inches longer! I initially thought maybe my original struts had lost some of the length due to age (118,000 miles). I checked the ride height of my sisters car (same year and model and age, different tires and only 55,000 miles). Measure from ground to the bottom of the front bumper, her's was 8.5 inches. Mine is almost 9.75 inches. So definitely higher. I slid my low profile jack under and it definitely has more room.

    I can't recall how far the original strut was in the knuckle but pretty sure it wasn't all the way in since there was some rust at the bottom of the knuckle and I sanded it to hopefully have it slide in easier (I did not sand enough). I stuck my finger in the bottom of knuckle (approx 1 inch) and it seems the bilstein was at approx the same depth into the knuckle as my original.

    Hopefully you haven't put on your winter tires yet and can take a gander at the strut and post back

    Edit: attachment should work now
    I will see the car on Wednesday (it is sitting in airport parking lot), and I can report back then.

    Winter tires? I live in 72F year round weather. It runs super sticky 225 width rubber.

  12. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by 90210 View Post
    I will see the car on Wednesday (it is sitting in airport parking lot), and I can report back then.

    Winter tires? I live in 72F year round weather. It runs super sticky 225 width rubber.
    Lucky! Man to have 72F all year round!
    Appreciate the assist. If you could also measure the ride height as well, that would be awesome. I'm going to contact Bilstein as well to see what they say.

  13. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by cameradude View Post
    Lucky! Man to have 72F all year round!
    Appreciate the assist. If you could also measure the ride height as well, that would be awesome. I'm going to contact Bilstein as well to see what they say.
    Ride Height hasn't changed. I measured before and after, so I know that 100%.

    I was just in Vancouver for a week, could have helped you install them! Don't know how you guys live in the rain. It rains 8 days a year, and we don't go out, in fear we get rain drops on our car.

  14. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by 90210 View Post
    Ride Height hasn't changed. I measured before and after, so I know that 100%.

    I was just in Vancouver for a week, could have helped you install them! Don't know how you guys live in the rain. It rains 8 days a year, and we don't go out, in fear we get rain drops on our car.
    It took me just over 10 hours over 2 days to figure this all out. At least I know how now. I am a real novice! If you were here I would have spent the free 6+ hours you would have saved me and took you around town and hit up the local breweries! The rain is not so bad. There is no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothes. You only get wet hoping brewery to brewery! Thanks for all your posts. Its what finally made me do mine.

    I contacted Bilstein and they were prompt to answer my email. They said the following:

    "Before disassembly we do always recommend to take some measurements from the bottom of the spring seat to the top of the steering knuckle. This will provide an accurate measurement for reference for reassembly for the new shock. The shock should be installed into the knuckle far enough that the tab should stop before it comes into contact with the knuckle pinch bolt."

    I missed seeing the tab! I also did buy one of those knuckle spreaders just to make it easier on myself. Glad I got one before I did the job. I had to stick three pennies to try and get it to spreader wider. I went one penny at a time and the third one did the trick and the strut slid into place (I had a jack under it to put some weight on it.

    Glad I corrected it and the ride height is now .75 inch less with the strut deeper into the knuckle. The rubbing is unfortunately still there. Its probably the moog end links. I'll have to think what else I can do (aside from switching out the end links).

    here's the actual knuckle spreader from raceland. Its pretty good quality. The spreader did not deform at all. Will come in handy for doing my sister's car.
    https://raceland.com/mazda-coilovers...-spreader.html
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by cameradude; 11-06-2018 at 03:51 AM.

  15. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by cameradude View Post
    If you were here I would have spent the free 6+ hours you would have saved me and took you around town and hit up the local breweries! The rain is not so bad. There is no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothes. You only get wet hoping brewery to brewery! Thanks for all your posts. Its what finally made me do mine.

    I contacted Bilstein and they were prompt to answer my email. They said the following:

    "Before disassembly we do always recommend to take some measurements from the bottom of the spring seat to the top of the steering knuckle. This will provide an accurate measurement for reference for reassembly for the new shock. The shock should be installed into the knuckle far enough that the tab should stop before it comes into contact with the knuckle pinch bolt."

    I missed seeing the tab! I also did buy one of those knuckle spreaders just to make it easier on myself. Glad I got one before I did the job. I had to stick three pennies to try and get it to spreader wider. I went one penny at a time and the third one did the trick and the strut slid into place (I had a jack under it to put some weight on it.

    Glad I corrected it and the ride height is now .75 inch less with the strut deeper into the knuckle. The rubbing is unfortunately still there. Its probably the moog end links. I'll have to think what else I can do (aside from switching out the end links).

    here's the actual knuckle spreader from raceland. Its pretty good quality. The spreader did not deform at all. Will come in handy for doing my sister's car.
    https://raceland.com/mazda-coilovers...-spreader.html
    Will have to look you up next time

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    Glad you got it sorted

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