Struts blown at 85,000 miles ?

Hi All,
While I don't post here much (never actually) I just ordered the Bilstein struts from AJUSA (link) for ~$85 each delivered. Here are the part numbers:

BIL-22-112811 Front Left
BIL-22-112880 Front Right

Amazon has the mounts in stock and free shipping:
https://goo.gl/zLvcxL Right $22.06 each
https://goo.gl/etX2oH Left $27.95 each
 
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For replacements, I'd recommend a quality manufacturer shock/strut that makes two versions- one for the normal Mazda 3 and one for the Mazdaspeed 3. They're the same basic suspension, but manufacturers that make shocks (rear) and struts (front) for the Speed 3 separately from the non-Speed versions typically have valving set up for the heavier and more aggressively driven Speed 3 on the Speed 3 variants.

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I took your advice and was doing some research. Looks like for the MS3, only B6 Bilstein and few others are available. The B4 that is recommended on this thread, is the same part number as the regular Mazda3 .

BIL-22-112811 Front Left
BIL-22-112880 Front Right
 
^
Thanks

I will ask my friend. He posts here too. I will try to dig up his thread. We both got our new mazda5 within weeks of each other. He had it dropped right away

As for the strut mount, it was recommended by my mechanic and by the dealer
thanks, look forward to the part #!

I 'think' they are referring to the strut mount as a kit, which includes the new hard mount + new bushings as one package. Not sure tho..

I took your advice and was doing some research. Looks like for the MS3, only B6 Bilstein and few others are available. The B4 that is recommended on this thread, is the same part number as the regular Mazda3 .

BIL-22-112811 Front Left
BIL-22-112880 Front Right
valving (rate of oil flow) is one aspect but you also need to consider amount of piston travel. MS3 is lower than Mz3/Mz5. FWIW, OEM application, the Mz3 and Mz5 uses the same front struts, different rears bc our rear end is heavier. Last I checked, Bilstien list the B6 as avail for the MS3/Mz5 but B6 As only compatible for MS3 rear, no Mz5 application. This is where "unofficial" V50 B6 rears fill the gap (bottom mount needs a washer or two to fill the gap). V50 rear end weight is more comparable than the MS3.

Check KYB's site bc they release much more technical details (top/bottom mount dimensions, total length, piston travel, etc.), which you can extropolate and compare.
 
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thanks, look forward to the part #!

I 'think' they are referring to the strut mount as a kit, which includes the new hard mount + new bushings as one package. Not sure tho..

valving (rate of oil flow) is one aspect but you also need to consider amount of piston travel. MS3 is lower than Mz3/Mz5. FWIW, OEM application, the Mz3 and Mz5 uses the same front struts, different rears bc our rear end is heavier. Last I checked, Bilstien list the B6 as avail for the MS3/Mz5 but B6 As only compatible for MS3 rear, no Mz5 application. This is where "unofficial" V50 B6 rears fill the gap (bottom mount needs a washer or two to fill the gap). V50 rear end weight is more comparable than the MS3.

Check KYB's site bc they release much more technical details (top/bottom mount dimensions, total length, piston travel, etc.), which you can extropolate and compare.
Thank you. I will check KYB website. I checked all the Bisltein stuff that people posted here. B6 was for MS3. They recommend B4 for Mazda5, which is the same as Mazda 3 (regular one)
 
Hi All,
While I don't post here much (never actually) I just ordered the Bilstein struts from AJUSA (link) for ~$85 each delivered. Here are the part numbers:

BIL-22-112811 Front Left
BIL-22-112880 Front Right

Amazon has the mounts in stock and free shipping:
https://goo.gl/zLvcxL Right $22.06 each
https://goo.gl/etX2oH Left $27.95 each
The pictures on Amazon don't look quite right. The fronts have three bolts, not two through the strut towers.
I took your advice and was doing some research. Looks like for the MS3, only B6 Bilstein and few others are available. The B4 that is recommended on this thread, is the same part number as the regular Mazda3 .

BIL-22-112811 Front Left
BIL-22-112880 Front Right
Yeah I'd go Bilstein B6. That's what I was looking at before buying my BCs.
thanks, look forward to the part #!

I 'think' they are referring to the strut mount as a kit, which includes the new hard mount + new bushings as one package. Not sure tho..

valving (rate of oil flow) is one aspect but you also need to consider amount of piston travel. MS3 is lower than Mz3/Mz5. FWIW, OEM application, the Mz3 and Mz5 uses the same front struts, different rears bc our rear end is heavier. Last I checked, Bilstien list the B6 as avail for the MS3/Mz5 but B6 As only compatible for MS3 rear, no Mz5 application. This is where "unofficial" V50 B6 rears fill the gap (bottom mount needs a washer or two to fill the gap). V50 rear end weight is more comparable than the MS3.

Check KYB's site bc they release much more technical details (top/bottom mount dimensions, total length, piston travel, etc.), which you can extropolate and compare.
V50? V40?
 
The pictures on Amazon don't look quite right. The fronts have three bolts, not two through the strut towers.

Yeah I'd go Bilstein B6. That's what I was looking at before buying my BCs.

V50? V40?
B6 are nice but from a pricing stand point, its in whole 'nother league.

Was the V40 ever avail in the US?? Check the V50 GVWR and F/R weight distribution, then cross-check technical specs via KYB's site.
 
So I was hoping to put it off till after X mas when car hits 90K miles. Its at 85 k miles now

It used to slightly make the noise over bumps etc. But drove it yesterday for a 100 miles, and MAN it is getting bad. I could tell on the highway, the wheels were moving up and down and there wasn't the shock absorption.
 
B6 are nice but from a pricing stand point, its in whole 'nother league.

Was the V40 ever avail in the US?? Check the V50 GVWR and F/R weight distribution, then cross-check technical specs via KYB's site.

Yeah, the V40 was indeed sold here for a short time before the V50 replaced it.
 
B6 are nice but from a pricing stand point, its in whole 'nother league.

the bilstein b6 struts are very good. you will need to change the 4 strut all around (different spring rates) and you will also need lowering springs (i recommend eibach) but the car will feel and handle 10x better over stock. it will corner and ride amazing.

So I was hoping to put it off till after X mas when car hits 90K miles. Its at 85 k miles now

It used to slightly make the noise over bumps etc. But drove it yesterday for a 100 miles, and MAN it is getting bad. I could tell on the highway, the wheels were moving up and down and there wasn't the shock absorption.

based on what you are describing, you need to change your suspension ASAP. that is unsafe.
 
Yeah, the V40 was indeed sold here for a short time before the V50 replaced it.

V50 is the P2 chassis, built around the C2 Focus, which came from the Mazda3. The V40 was Mitubishi-based and ceased to exist in 2004. No one has shed a single tear over that either.
 
So I was hoping to put it off till after X mas when car hits 90K miles. Its at 85 k miles now

It used to slightly make the noise over bumps etc. But drove it yesterday for a 100 miles, and MAN it is getting bad. I could tell on the highway, the wheels were moving up and down and there wasn't the shock absorption.

I drove like that for months before I replaced the shocks/struts. But not on the freeway. I would be worried over 60 for sure.
If you haven't made the purchase yet, I will add another vote for the Koni FSDs. The guys who put them on the V70s cannot stop raving. They are also on sale right now. They come as a full set about $700 I think. Oh, and DO THE STRUT MOUNTS!! My struts were toast at 50K. By 80K the LF strut mount was knocking like Cheech on Chong's door during a paranoia fit.
 
Oh, don't forget to check any motor mounts you have not replaced yet (and the #3 mount by the belts too even if you have replaced it)
 
I drove like that for months before I replaced the shocks/struts. But not on the freeway. I would be worried over 60 for sure.
If you haven't made the purchase yet, I will add another vote for the Koni FSDs. The guys who put them on the V70s cannot stop raving. They are also on sale right now. They come as a full set about $700 I think. Oh, and DO THE STRUT MOUNTS!! My struts were toast at 50K. By 80K the LF strut mount was knocking like Cheech on Chong's door during a paranoia fit.

I have not the made the purchase yet. I will check out your KONI FSD as well. Which mount did you go with?
 
I did the #3 and the one under the battery box from Rockauto. I got f'd by the dealer with the rear mount. I paid $300 when I could have bought the eFocus one and did it myself in 15 minutes.
The battery box one sucks but is totally DIY-able. Just beware that the ECUs are right there next to the battery box and must come out.
 
I did the #3 and the one under the battery box from Rockauto. I got f'd by the dealer with the rear mount. I paid $300 when I could have bought the eFocus one and did it myself in 15 minutes.
The battery box one sucks but is totally DIY-able. Just beware that the ECUs are right there next to the battery box and must come out.
How can I tell where the motor mounts are ?

How many do I have?

Can I visually tell if it needs replacing ?

I would like to check myself before ordering
 
3 mounts. The easiest is the #3 passenger side. Lift hood, look by the belts for the odd looking object holding up the engine. Bolts on the top side of the frame and side of the block. The part holding the block should be centered inside the part mounted to the frame. If it looks low or if there is cracked rubber or discolored rubber from fluid leakage, it has failed. If your car vibrates or makes knocking noises at weird times, start by examining the mounts, esp this one. The next one supports the trans at the back below the exhaust. Not sure what it looks like when its bad. The last one is under the battery. Just about every piece of plastic has to come out to get to it...and the ECU pod as well. Not kidding - I felt like Mary Poppins and the engine bay was her bag! Stuff just kept coming out and out and out! When diagnosing engine mounts, again thing is vibrations. All 3 of mine had failed by 70K/8 years. I only knew b/c of vibes. Different areas, sometime felt like a CV, sometimes under the body, sometimes felt like a control arm or swaybar. Again, vibes or knocking. That's the big clue.
Dont forget those strut mounts in the strut towers in the engine bay. As I already said, I thought mine were good, but 10K later, one was bad. I will have to tear it all apart to replace it. Probably gonna live with it until the KYB GR2 fails and it has to come out anyway. Don't be me.
 
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