Struts blown at 85,000 miles ?

You options are:
1) Bilstein B4 all around (twin tubed OEM replacements)
2) Koni FSD all around (twin tubed OEM replacements)
3) KYB Excel G front + Gas Adjust rear (excel-G are twin tubed OEM replacements - fka GR2, rear Gas Adjust are monotubed)

If you want the little van to hang with the Elise (ok, maybe follow)
1) Bilstein B6 + add H&R + RSB (monotubed! and inverted (front), you need V50 rear)
2) Koni Sport + add H&R + RSB (twin tubed adjustable)

All Mazda5s (in the US) use the same chassis with the same mounting points. Unless money is hard to come by or you plan to dump the car within a year or two and don't care how the car rides, don't consider any of the preassembled kits... Let's just say they are not in the business to price things for goodwill.

Struts are what you have up front, shocks are what you have in the rear.

A vehicle will have either a shock or a strut at each wheel, never both. ... The major difference between shocks and struts is that a strut is a structural part of the vehicles suspension system where a shock is not. A strut is also crucial part of the vehicles steering system and greatly affects alignment angles.
This is CORRECT! To simplify, take a quick look at your suspensions. If a spring sits ontop of the damper (see front) is called a strut and is integral b/c you cannot physically mount the spring without it. In the rear, the spring is mounted separately from the damper which is called a shock. You can technically ride without rear shocks for fun -you'll bounce like crazy (think hoopty + sound system = all dat bass bumping in the rear yo!) :p
 
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You options are:
1) Bilstein B4 all around (twin tubed OEM replacements)
2) Koni FSD all around (twin tubed OEM replacements)
3) KYB Excel G front + Gas Adjust rear (twin tubed OEM replacements, fka GR2)

If you want the little van to hang with the Elise (ok, maybe follow)
1) Bilstein B6 + add H&R + RSB (monotubed! and inverted (front), you need V50 rear)
2) Koni Sport + add H&R + RSB (twin tubed adjustable)

All Mazda5s (in the US) use the same chassis with the same mounting points. Unless money is hard to come by or you plan to dump the car within a year or two and don't care how the car rides, don't consider any of the preassembled kits... Let's just say they are not in the business to price things for goodwill.

This is CORRECT! To simplify, take a quick look at your suspensions. If a spring sits ontop of the damper (see front) is called a strut and is integral b/c you cannot physically mount the spring without it. In the rear, the spring is mounted separately from the damper which is called a shock. You can technically ride without rear shocks for fun -you'll bounce like crazy (think hoopty + sound system = all dat bass bumping in the rear yo!) :p

Bilstein > Koni

ACS springs > Eibach > H&R.

And like you said, bilstein b4 is an OEM replacement while b6 is a performance version and will need more aggressive lowering springs. I recommend ACS or Eibach springs if you go with the b6 but then you would need to change the rear suspension, so just buy the b4s with some new OEM springs.

By the way, bilstein will last much, much longer then the OEM Stuff.
 
Thank you as always. I am leaning towards the Bilstein B4 for the fronts. I would like to keep the van till 150K miles, or another 4 years.

If I do the Bilstein B4 in the front for now, would that be ok with the OEM rear setup. Or is it a must to change the rear as well?

Also do you have a strut mount recommendation? Shop is quoting $61 per front strut mount.

They are also quoting 3.5 hours to do the job ($262.50) for the labor.


Lastly, where do you buy the BIlstein B4? Rock Auto only has front left. Tire rack didn't have any.


You options are:
1) Bilstein B4 all around (twin tubed OEM replacements)
2) Koni FSD all around (twin tubed OEM replacements)
3) KYB Excel G front + Gas Adjust rear (excel-G are twin tubed OEM replacements - fka GR2, rear Gas Adjust are monotubed)

If you want the little van to hang with the Elise (ok, maybe follow)
1) Bilstein B6 + add H&R + RSB (monotubed! and inverted (front), you need V50 rear)
2) Koni Sport + add H&R + RSB (twin tubed adjustable)

All Mazda5s (in the US) use the same chassis with the same mounting points. Unless money is hard to come by or you plan to dump the car within a year or two and don't care how the car rides, don't consider any of the preassembled kits... Let's just say they are not in the business to price things for goodwill.

This is CORRECT! To simplify, take a quick look at your suspensions. If a spring sits ontop of the damper (see front) is called a strut and is integral b/c you cannot physically mount the spring without it. In the rear, the spring is mounted separately from the damper which is called a shock. You can technically ride without rear shocks for fun -you'll bounce like crazy (think hoopty + sound system = all dat bass bumping in the rear yo!) :p
 
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Thank you as always. I am leaning towards the Bilstein B4 for the fronts. I would like to keep the van till 150K miles, or another 4 years.

If I do the Bilstein B4 in the front for now, would that be ok with the OEM rear setup. Or is it a must to change the rear as well?

Also do you have a strut mount recommendation? Shop is quoting $61 per front strut mount.

They are also quoting 3.5 hours to do the job ($262.50) for the labor.


Lastly, where do you buy the BIlstein B4? Rock Auto only has front left. Tire rack didn't have any.

Getting bilsteins for the front is fine as long as you stick to the OEM b4 replacements. I would also get new OEM springs
 
Getting bilsteins for the front is fine as long as you stick to the OEM b4 replacements. I would also get new OEM springs

Thank you. That is the plan. Now WHERE to get them is the first concern.

I didn't think the springs need replacement. The shop/dealer neither mentioned needing a replacement. You really think I need to replace the springs?
 
Thank you. That is the plan. Now WHERE to get them is the first concern.

I didn't think the springs need replacement. The shop/dealer neither mentioned needing a replacement. You really think I need to replace the springs?

I would jsut look for any parts store online and find someone who can ship not to far from from you.

Ideally yes, while you have the front suspension taken apart may as well put new springs in there too because they are going to be worn. Its not essential but highly recommended if you want a proper suspension refresh
 
Thank you as always. I am leaning towards the Bilstein B4 for the fronts. I would like to keep the van till 150K miles, or another 4 years.

If I do the Bilstein B4 in the front for now, would that be ok with the OEM rear setup. Or is it a must to change the rear as well?

Also do you have a strut mount recommendation? Shop is quoting $61 per front strut mount.

They are also quoting 3.5 hours to do the job ($262.50) for the labor.


Lastly, where do you buy the BIlstein B4? Rock Auto only has front left. Tire rack didn't have any.
You can mix B4 front with OEM rears b/c they have similar (enough) damping profiles. However, I would recommend to do the rears also b/c 1) at your mileage, the rears are *likely* going soon esp. on this car with a heavy rear end 2) they don't cost much 3) they are very easy to install (you can DIY rears - 3 external bolts). Check Bilstein's catalog https://cart.bilsteinus.com/ for the exact part number, then simply google "Bilstein + part#" for lowest price. Bilstein offers limited lifetime warranty to original owner so do confirm the seller/vendor is legit.

3.5 hrs seems a little on the high end but you know your shop best. With air tools, I would say ~2.5 hrs.

Technically you don't need a new mount but some vendors sell the whole assembly. What you *may* (or may not) need is a new strut bushing (bearing b/c it has ball bearings in it), which sits inside of the strut mount. The strut is integral to suspension b/c it holds/compresses the spring. When you turn your steering wheel, this applies twisting/thrusting forces to the spring and the strut bearing rotates to negate these forces. As with any/all bearings, they can go bad over time but honestly I think you are fine considering the age (year) and condition (mileage) of your car really isn't that old. The risk is that if you don't replace it now and it goes bad the next 10K, you have to pay another 3.5hrs labor to swap it... The other part you *may* consider replacing is the jounce bumper (aka bump stop). They act as auxiliary springs and is constantly compressed, by design, in everyday driving. Aftermarket vendors sell them in different lengths, thickness, material quality which affects the ride quality but you'd have to know what you want. Again, I really don't think you need to -yet.

Strut bushing (bearing): 34381B
Bump stop: 34111
https://www.jimellismazdaparts.com/...odel=14357&modelYear=2012&ukey_category=20262


You most likely do NOT need new springs. Unless these is a defect or used in a harsh environment, OEM springs should last the life of the car. Edit: as in typically ownership, obviously it will not last infinite miles/time.
 
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Appreciate the help

I will get the bushing and bumpstop

I will also order the rear bilateins now

Thanks !!!

You can mix B4 front with OEM rears b/c they have similar (enough) damping profiles. However, I would recommend to do the rears also b/c 1) at your mileage, the rears are *likely* going soon esp. on this car with a heavy rear end 2) they don't cost much 3) they are very easy to install (you can DIY rears - 3 external bolts). Check Bilstein's catalog https://cart.bilsteinus.com/ for the exact part number, then simply google "Bilstein + part#" for lowest price. Bilstein offers limited lifetime warranty to original owner so do confirm the seller/vendor is legit.

3.5 hrs seems a little on the high end but you know your shop best. With air tools, I would say ~2.5 hrs.

Technically you don't need a new mount but some vendors sell the whole assembly. What you *may* (or may not) need is a new strut bushing (bearing b/c it has ball bearings in it), which sits inside of the strut mount. The strut is integral to suspension b/c it holds/compresses the spring. When you turn your steering wheel, this applies twisting/thrusting forces to the spring and the strut bearing rotates to negate these forces. As with any/all bearings, they can go bad over time but honestly I think you are fine considering the age (year) and condition (mileage) of your car really isn't that old. The risk is that if you don't replace it now and it goes bad the next 10K, you have to pay another 3.5hrs labor to swap it... The other part you *may* consider replacing is the jounce bumper (aka bump stop). They act as auxiliary springs and is constantly compressed, by design, in everyday driving. Aftermarket vendors sell them in different lengths, thickness, material quality which affects the ride quality but you'd have to know what you want. Again, I really don't think you need to -yet.

Strut bushing (bearing): 34381B
Bump stop: 34111
https://www.jimellismazdaparts.com/...odel=14357&modelYear=2012&ukey_category=20262


You most likely do NOT need new springs. Unless these is a defect or used in a harsh environment, OEM springs should last the life of the car. Edit: as in typically ownership, obviously it will not last infinite miles/time.
 
Appreciate the help

I will get the bushing and bumpstop

I will also order the rear bilateins now

Thanks !!!
Nice to hear that you can do it all at once. It will feel so much better. (cabpatch)

Yes I also agree with Silentnoise713, that there is no need to mess with the springs unless you plan on lowering or lifting the car
 
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Nice to hear that you can do it all at once. It will feel so much better. (cabpatch)

Yes I also agree with Silentnoise713, that there is no need to mess with the springs unless you plan on lowering or lifting the car

Figure if we keep the car just do it all at once.

Strut mount is my next question. From the link silentnoise posted they are about $74 a side oem. Rock auto is about $30 each side.

Any recommendations ?
 
If youre going for bilsteins all around, alternatively you can get the bilstein b6 struts with Eibach lowering springs for a nice performance combo. I say may as do it if you want better suspension without paying much more. If you just want an OEM replacment then I guess you dont need to get new springs.

Since your car is FWD, most likely your rear struts are in good shape. You can do a quick test by pushing down on the tail-gate hard enough to slightly compress the strut. If it bounces right back up then your rear suspension is fine. If it bounces around before settling then you should replace the rears as well .

The strut bushings was a great thing that was pointed out. I would also inspect to make sure that ball joints are not worn and causing play
 
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I thought about doing eibach Springs since Car was new. Even rode in a friends car who has it and loved it (2012 mazda5)

I have mazdaspeed3 wheels on my car since new and we went with Michelin 225/45/18

Now if I put Springs on it will rub severely . Thus springs are no go , unless I downsize the tire which I don’t want to do

I did the rear shock test as suggested and it bounced right back
 
I thought about doing eibach Springs since Car was new. Even rode in a friends car who has it and loved it (2012 mazda5)

I have mazdaspeed3 wheels on my car since new and we went with Michelin 225/45/18

Now if I put Springs on it will rub severely . Thus springs are no go , unless I downsize the tire which I don’t want to do

I did the rear shock test as suggested and it bounced right back

If your rear shocks rebound nice and firm then I dont think you should change them.
 
Everyones understanding and definition of what all these terms mean is extremely misinformed and all over the place, so lets not jump to any sort of conclusions here. Based on what Ive learned from talking to suspension experts on a bmw forum, it seems like the most common definition for these words was that a strut is the gas-filled thing that compresses, and the shock is the spring that goes around the strut. This seems to be the correct terminology.

'mazdadude's' explanation is how I've always understood it. When referring to suspension, there's no confusing struts and shocks.
If a suspension expert refers to a spring as a shock, they don't know what they're talking about. Sounds like the person that points at a monitor and calls it a CPU.

Wowwwwwwwwwww so much misinformation in this thread. Simply- a strut forms part of the suspension structure. A shock does not. If your suspension still moves properly and everything is connected without the damper in place, you have a shock as part of your suspension at that wheel. If NOT everything is connected when the damper is missing and the wheel can't move through all the normal motions, you have a strut. Whether the spring sits on the damper or not is irrelevant. The coil/leaf/torsion/whatever spring is NOT the shock/strut/damper.

http://www.shockwarehouse.com/news/differenceshocksstruts.cfm
http://www.monroe.com/en-US/shocks-101/shocks-vs-struts/
https://www.heeltoeauto.com/tech-ar...ruts-and-what-is-a-damper-and-a-coilover.html

For replacements, I'd recommend a quality manufacturer shock/strut that makes two versions- one for the normal Mazda 3 and one for the Mazdaspeed 3. They're the same basic suspension, but manufacturers that make shocks (rear) and struts (front) for the Speed 3 separately from the non-Speed versions typically have valving set up for the heavier and more aggressively driven Speed 3 on the Speed 3 variants.

As far as a complete bolt-in solution where you don't have to play with assembling mounts and springs, you'll typically have to go with a "coilover" suspension setup, like BC, Tein, Yellowspeed, whatever...

See my install thread for a good how-to on replacing shocks/springs on your 5.
 
Figure if we keep the car just do it all at once.

Strut mount is my next question. From the link silentnoise posted they are about $74 a side oem. Rock auto is about $30 each side.

Any recommendations ?
Why do you feel the need to replace the mount? Is the Mazda's different in that it is 'more' than just a piece of steel (a mount)? Its like the our common sway bar problem. If bad, you replace the bushing. Replacing the mount is a bit above and beyond... I 'think' your bushing/bearing and bump stops should last a while longer but no guarantees.


I thought about doing eibach Springs since Car was new. Even rode in a friends car who has it and loved it (2012 mazda5)

I have mazdaspeed3 wheels on my car since new and we went with Michelin 225/45/18

Now if I put Springs on it will rub severely . Thus springs are no go , unless I downsize the tire which I don’t want to do

I did the rear shock test as suggested and it bounced right back
If you push down on a spring, it will naturally want to bounced right back up. What you want to look for is oscillations; ideally once it comes up the rear end stays up and not have to oscillate multiple times. Another thing you can do is drive at highway speeds (where dampers are put to the test) and have someone record the wheels when going over expansion joints/bumps and such. IF worn, you'll see it bounce up and down but you may not feel it in the cabin if the rest of the car's suspension is working to offset this. The good thing is the rears are so easy do DIY and not expensive, you can put it off to save a few bucks but at 87K already, why not just git-er-done the first time?


Can you ask your friend where/how he sourced the Eibach spring and is it for the US 2.3 Mazda 5? Any chance he has a part #!? I would love to get a set - spec for the Mazda5, not the Mazda3/MS3. I looked (probably not hard enough) but couldn't find it in the US (see it on UK ebay sites but S/H).
https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/sho...-Photo-Guide&p=6513289&viewfull=1#post6513289
 
^
Thanks

I will ask my friend. He posts here too. I will try to dig up his thread. We both got our new mazda5 within weeks of each other. He had it dropped right away

As for the strut mount, it was recommended by my mechanic and by the dealer
 
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