2017 mazda cx-5 lug nut torque?

F

fenglin911a

:
Mazda, 2017 cx-5, GT
I know this question probably has been brought up before.

What you guys do for the 2017 cx-5? On the manual there is a range, I guess that will be same for R17 and R19?



Page 652

Lug nut tightening torque
When installing a tire, tighten the lug nut to the following torque.
108―147 Nm (12―14 kgfm, 80―108 ftlbf)
 
banjos-n-beer said:
I usually go with the midpoint.

YMMV
Click to expand...
I go with the midpoint too at 95 ft-lbs.

I'm still not getting used to this range thing on torque specs from Mazda. They're everywhere in Mazds service manual. The torque specs I've seen from other vehicles are always given one torque value, not a range.
 
yrwei52 said:
I go with the midpoint too at 95 ft-lbs.

I'm still not getting used to this range thing on torque specs from Mazda. They're everywhere in Mazds service manual. The torque specs I've seen from other vehicles are always given one torque value, not a range.
Click to expand...

Would you be happier if they said 94 +/- 14 or maybe 94 +/- 15%? I like the range because it tells you that 2 or 3 ft-lbs don't matter.
 
I usually go with 100ft-lb.
It is more important to make them all torqued the same.
 
murky said:
Would you be happier if they said 94 +/- 14 or maybe 94 +/- 15%? I like the range because it tells you that 2 or 3 ft-lbs don't matter.
Click to expand...
This’s not 2 or 3 ft-lbs difference, 80 ~ 108 ft-lbs is a wide range and this’s 35% difference between the low and high. I have factory service manuals from VW、BMW、Ford、Honda、and Toyota, none of them uses a range or +/- for torque specs. The wide-range specs give me the impression that the specs are given without precision.

The same on fluid capacity for engine oil and rear differential, both of them are given wrong specs on total capacity.
 
I was curious about this Mazda torque range thing after coming from other makes where a specific number was quoted but when you think about it, getting them exact under a variety of practical environments would be pretty ambitious anyway. I set my torque wrench at the lower end simply because it's near to most other cars I work on and the higher end feels bloody tight when swinging on that long torque wrench. I'm conscious of the fact I've got that little wheel nut wrench in the back if I have to change a wheel at the side of the road.

As for fluid capacity, the Mazda recommendation for my diesel is 5.1 litres which is about 1/4 inch under the top mark. This is what would match a new engine after a factory fill (which would take slightly more to fill all the galleries and voids). Because it doesn't reach the top mark on the stick doesn't mean it is underfilled, that is the point where Mazda expect problems might occur if somebody overfills when emptying a carton of oil in the engine. There is no benefit in adding more oil at an oil change than the recommended amount just because it is under that top mark. If it makes you feel better for doing so, it won't harm anything but your bank balance!
 
Anchorman said:
⋯ As for fluid capacity, the Mazda recommendation for my diesel is 5.1 litres which is about 1/4 inch under the top mark. This is what would match a new engine after a factory fill (which would take slightly more to fill all the galleries and voids). Because it doesn't reach the top mark on the stick doesn't mean it is underfilled, that is the point where Mazda expect problems might occur if somebody overfills when emptying a carton of oil in the engine. There is no benefit in adding more oil at an oil change than the recommended amount just because it is under that top mark. If it makes you feel better for doing so, it won't harm anything but your bank balance!
Click to expand...
You explained low engine oil capacity specs. But gear lubricant specs at front transfer case is precise at 0.48 quarts, and the rear differential is way off. It uses about 0.75 quarts for 1st-gen CX-5 although the spec says 0.48 quarts. Its this inconsistency makes me feel Mazda did sloppy job measuring the fluid capacities and torque specs. Or are Mazda engineers just trying to be different from others?
 
I notice both Discount tires and my dealership both do 90. I try to check them after a week with torque wrench.
 
yrwei52 said:
Thiss not 2 or 3 ft-lbs difference, 80 ~ 108 ft-lbs is a wide range and thiss 35% difference between the low and high. I have factory service manuals from VW、BMW、Ford、Honda、and Toyota, none of them uses a range or +/- for torque specs. The wide-range specs give me the impression that the specs are given without precision...
Click to expand...

That's exactly what I'm alluding to. The fact that Mazda gives a range that allows for 15% variation in either direction from the middle of the spec range, tells me that they believe that fine precision is not necessary.

It tells me that if the tire dealer has they're torque wrenches set to 100 ft-lbs, I don't have to worry, even though I may choose to use the nominal of 94 after I bleed my brakes.
 
murky said:
That's exactly what I'm alluding to. The fact that Mazda gives a range that allows for 15% variation in either direction from the middle of the spec range, tells me that they believe that fine precision is not necessary.

It tells me that if the tire dealer has they're torque wrenches set to 100 ft-lbs, I don't have to worry, even though I may choose to use the nominal of 94 after I bleed my brakes.
Click to expand...
It also means that the DIY owner at home who only has a 3/8 10-80 ft-lb torque wrench, can still torque the wheels in a pinch. I don't think it's a big deal that they give a torque range to work with. If it was a problem, wheels would be falling off while the cars are being driven and Mazda would have already been brought to court by now.
 
finch204 said:
It also means that the DIY owner at home who only has a 3/8 10-80 ft-lb torque wrench, can still torque the wheels in a pinch. I don't think it's a big deal that they give a torque range to work with. If it was a problem, wheels would be falling off while the cars are being driven and Mazda would have already been brought to court by now.
Click to expand...

I have never used a tq wrench on lug nuts. I have also never had an issue when I torqued them. I tighten them criss cross but in slight intervals, as in, 1/8 turn past finger tight at a time, not final torque from finger tight one at a time in one fell swoop. M4 barrel nuts, I tighten with a $1500 torque wrench. 68ft. So I have developed a feel for those levels of torque etc. I know I've removed some torqued by a air wrench that were way beyond spec on some of my cars.
 
Unobtanium said:
I have never used a tq wrench on lug nuts. I have also never had an issue when I torqued them. I tighten them criss cross but in slight intervals, as in, 1/8 turn past finger tight at a time, not final torque from finger tight one at a time in one fell swoop. M4 barrel nuts, I tighten with a $1500 torque wrench. 68ft. So I have developed a feel for those levels of torque etc. I know I've removed some torqued by a air wrench that were way beyond spec on some of my cars.
Click to expand...

Thank god. I was starting to think I was doing it wrong. I've also never set mine to any specific torque. Are they tight? Cool.
 
Unobtanium said:
I have never used a tq wrench on lug nuts. I have also never had an issue when I torqued them. I tighten them criss cross but in slight intervals, as in, 1/8 turn past finger tight at a time, not final torque from finger tight one at a time in one fell swoop. M4 barrel nuts, I tighten with a $1500 torque wrench. 68ft. So I have developed a feel for those levels of torque etc. I know I've removed some torqued by a air wrench that were way beyond spec on some of my cars.
Click to expand...

The few times that I had to tighten lug nuts on my car, I used a torque wrench. Wheels being a safety component on a car, I cannot feel comfortable just tightening them to the point where I feel they are tight enough. I want to know they are tight enough as per the manufacturer's specification. That's just me and other people surely don't feel that way.
 
When I was younger a local auto parts store had problems with customer's wheels falling off after having them serviced at their locations. I bet they use torque wrenches now.
 
finch204 said:
The few times that I had to tighten lug nuts on my car, I used a torque wrench. Wheels being a safety component on a car, I cannot feel comfortable just tightening them to the point where I feel they are tight enough. I want to know they are tight enough as per the manufacturer's specification. That's just me and other people surely don't feel that way.
Click to expand...

I agree, takes an extra 3 minutes including getting out the wrench and putting it away.

I don't trust doing it by feel since I use a longer wrench with more mechanical advantage, when tightening lugs than my typical 3/8" ratchet. I don't do it often enough to develop "the feel". Whatever feel I do have is based on a wrench the length of my torque wrench, which is in between my other wrenches.
 
Until this thread, it never even occurred to me to use a torque wrench. I've never lost a wheel or a lug nut.
 
7eregrine said:
Until this thread, it never even occurred to me to use a torque wrench. I've never lost a wheel or a lug nut.
Click to expand...

Well, I think its funny that the guy (not you) who posted links explaining how improperly torquing the lugs can "warp" the rotors, and who's had numerous warped rotors, and who owns a really expensive torque wrench, torques his lug nuts by feel.
 
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