LankyKiwi's Rally-flavored SP20

@PCB, thanks for the info, will check it out next weekend

@Jazzy, as far as I can tell its a JDM model, here's some more pics:

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Terrible shot sorry, a few differences like the fan/recirc controls, tweeters in the door pillars and intermittent wipers all done by the factory

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Remarkably clean for 230,000kms, I can't pick FS ZEs apart from DEs yet, maybe someone here can?
 
Nice man, two Proteges :^) If I ever get a second one, it'll probably be a BG chassis. I like their looks, and if you buy the LX trim with the BP 1.8, they had a better power/weight ratio from the factory than the Protege5.

From the looks of it, you definitely have the FS-ZE's intake manifold. You can tell by the strange black box behind the valve cover. However, for all I know, it could be a FS-DE with the FS-ZE IM, which for the longest time, people swore up and down was the best possible IM upgrade (over removing the FS-DE VTCS with a light polish, for example).

Another way to tell is your car's redline. Do you redline at 6,500RPM or 7,000RPM? The FS-ZE redlines at 7kRPM. There are other telltales about what you have, but I can't remember them. Hope this gives you some idea!
 
Looks to be a FSZE to me. Resonator box on IM is the first hint. Compare the exhaust manifold to your FSDE. The FSZE should be 4-2-1. Did you not feel the difference in power delivery compared to the red mobile?

The differences between the FSDE (AU/NZ spec) vs FSZE (pre July 2002):

FSDE = 131hp @ 6000 / 126lbs/ft (174Nm) @ 4000 / Compression Ratio 9.7:1 / Redline 6500
FSZE = 168hp @ 6800 / 131lbs/ft (178Nm) @ 5000 / Compression Ratio 10.4:1 / Redline 7000

FSZE should also has different ECU to your SP20. And cannot be swapped around (different engine loom). Different intake cams also. Exhaust cams are the same (AU/NZ spec).

So in other words, start swapping everything over from the red to the blue NOW!! (drinks)
 
Thanks for the info!


7k redline on the clock, 4-2-1 exhaust, weird intake resonator. Yep, looks like I got myself an ZE!

Having gone from the Demio I didn't have a great frame of reference to compare it (a geriatric donkey would be faster than that box lol) but it does pull harder from lower revs than the red one. The tiptronic box takes a bit of getting used to as it shifts really early in auto mode

The red one will stay as the project, I'm too far in with that one to start again with the blue one. Eventually, I'll modify the blue one with a half leather interior, the racing beat springs, nice wheels, etc,etc. It'll be the highway cruiser and the red one will be the backroads carver :)

@Riot, BG familias are cool! There's a AWD turbo version out there too.
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Oh man a ZE? You lucky dog, I'm gunna have to fly down there to get all the good stuff. Did the new car's transmission come with a lsd too?
 
Woah is (or was) that your BG? If so, how is it that you've owned every other car make or model I've mentioned to you? I'm envious!
 
That feel when the intercooler you've been saving up for weeks and was available last night, is no longer in stock :(


@Stud, I don't think it has an LSD but I haven't had the front up to have a look yet
@Riot, I wish! That was a random image pulled off Google. They're still around over here but the proper GTX and GTR specs fetch crazy money now
@323, I blame the Familia and the Pulsar GTiR for my obsession with small Japanese hatchbacks!
 
Ah man I just saw that it's an auto :( there goes the lsd theory. The p5 started it all for me, I grew up helping my grandpa fix ancient rusty trucks and then got the wagon, it's been all rice ever since lol. Sorry about the intercooler man, that's some real crappy luck hopefully itll be back in stock soon. I need to see this thing start, I dont know how much longer I can wait for a supercharger kit 👍😂
 
Luckily another supplier had an intercooler that was about the same size, still annoying having to split an order as it meant 4 separate trips to 2 courier depots to get parts and I'm still waiting for some stuff! But the good news is now I have an intercooler and some piping to join it all together.



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450x185x65mm core with 2 1/2" ends, its probably a little small but all of the other options were either massive or horrendously expensive. This one fits really nicely just in front of the rad and has enough clearance to get a silicon joiner and an alloy tube around the rad on either side

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I had to persuade the lower corners of the rad support with the ball peen but there's no cutting at all which is a major plus for the certification process here. I've mocked up the upper bracket and replaced the latch support with some 3mm alloy, it's super stiff and should work a treat. No steel crash bar means not much to hang the cooler from!

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I'm aiming to keep the cold air box on the LH side, this is the current set up for the crossover piping, you can just see the supercharger intake underneath the power steering pump so it's a nice easy run. hopefully I can get a 12" slim fan where the stock one was but we'll see on that one. Wastegate and blow off valve setup is all going to hide in this corner as there's plenty of room and access to atmospheric intake and boosted pipes

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My main concern at the moment is that half of the cooler sits behind the middle bar of the bumper, I considered leaning the cooler forwards but it was going to be a whole bunch more work for minimal gains. The plan at the moment is to make an air diverter from the lower grille opening up to the cooler and try to seal off the rad as much as possible, hopefully that'll force air through everything and keep it all nice and cool. Another thing I have to do is reposition the power steering cooler. Does anyone know if I can lop the ends off the stock one and run a rubber hose instead of a hard line? How much pressure do these things normally hold?
 
After a few 'off' weekends and some setbacks (like breaking 2 gas regulators!) I finally had a decent stretch of work on this project;

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The inlet and outlets for the supercharger, all alloy and stuck together using my trusty old MIG. Alloy is very, very finicky to weld so I'm happy enough with these results. They're not pretty but they're buried in the engine bay so no one will see them lol. The outlet isn't finished as I need to attack it with a die grinder and make the transition nice and smooth

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All in place, I need to get a hump silicon joiner for the outlet to compensate for engine movement. Also in place is the crossover piping
Those poor white headers are getting way too many scratches and greasy fingerprints!

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This is what a SC14 kit looks like for a SP20 lol. Now I've got to pull it apart and ask the boys at work to finish weld the bits I can't :)

Xmas break is coming up and I really want to get this motor out so I cant work on the bay during the 2 weeks off. There isn't too much left to do before then so expect a bit more regular progress!
 
Good work but, if I was you, I'd seriously consider getting them parts professionally TIG welded. MIG welding components that are meant to hold any sort of air pressure is just asking for trouble, even if the MIG welds were professionally done. Tack them in position and have them TIG welded by a experienced welder. It will save you a lot of drama. (yes)
 
Thanks Jazzy, good to know, yep I'll get the outlet TIG'd by the boys at work and will probably redo the inlet as well
 
Let's see if this works....



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A quick test to see if the belt runs nicely and the mount is all good now that it is welded up. No inlet or outlet on the charger so it's really loud, plus the car's running rough from sitting for so long, but man, what a noise! Forgot how loud the exhaust is compared to the stock blue SP20 lol


This was a motivation bump after a crappy few weeks (mostly not car stuff), nothing like hearing a car run when it's been silent for ages!
 
It was a nice sunny day so I got the red car out of the shed for some sunshine
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Kinda fun to compare the two cars side-to-side.

I've got three weeks of holiday leave from work and my plan is to make a whole lot of progress on the engine bay and engine itself. New mounts, seals, clutch and flywheel (if the shop is open lol) and a lick of paint over everything.

So I started by working on the other car...
It's had a birthday lately, new tyres, fresh WOF, rear disks and pads (Grease your slider pins!) and the tow bar that came on the red car originally.
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This is the 234,000 kms worth of road dirt and stones from the rear wheel arches alone! Just about makes up for the weight of the tow bar

Also, the last thing I wanted to see...
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Rust! It's not much but it needs fixing and that's time and cash not spent on the red car :(
 
Things you can fit in the rear of a SP20, volume 3:
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1250kg engine crane, and room to spare!

Borrowed this from my sister's partner on Christmas day (great present lol) and spent boxing day pulling the motor and box.

Started at 9 with a running car, minus lights and bumper
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By lunch the fluids were out, ancillaries and fuel lines were disconnected and the wiring was unplugged
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2:30 saw the moment of truth!
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3:30 and the box was off, and the engine ready for the stand, didn't have any long bolts so that had to wait until the next day.
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Three things made this a really easy pull, having the workshop manual in PDF form to refer to throughout the day, the crane itself was super easy to use, I was expecting a struggle but the motor came straight up and out. Lastly, and probably most importantly, a 18V 1/2" rattle gun and long sockets, this little beauty whizzed just about every bolt off with no dramas, the only exception being the gearbox - engine bolts which needed a breaker bar and a 1.2M pipe extension, they were tight!

2 casualties, one steering rod end was stubborn and needed cutting, and the clip on one injector plug snapped. Not bad for my first FWD engine pull, and the first one since I did my Herald about 7 years ago.
 
The engine doesn't look too bad, the leak that I thought was a rear main seal is most likely the gearbox end seals, which should be nice and easy to replace. looks like a small leak under the water pump but thats about it. Needs a good scrub and a lick of paint!

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While this thing is out, what else should I replace as a general service? Seeing as the main seal is OK I don't want to mess with it if I don't have too. Engine mounts are getting replaced as well as the heater hoses and other perishables. I'll crack the sump and have a look but I'd really rather not take the head off if I can help it.

Anything in particular I should be looking at for the engine or gearbox?
 
The saga of buying engine paint:
- wait until the 30th because Christmas and stuff
- go to 6 different stores trying to find the colour that you want, no one has it in stock
- I can get three shades of red and black/silver, but not the grey I want
- Jump online and find the nearest store that has stock is 90kms away in Auckland, Hmmmmm might as well fit the pick-a-part yards if we're going all The way up there
- wait until the 2nd, because new years and everything is closed
- Go to pick up the order of paint only to find out that, no they don't have that in stock, the system is out and it should never have shown up at all! Get told they'll deliver it in 4-5 days because its spray paint and they can't courier it
-get home, find an email saying, wait, actually they DO have the paint, they'll still deliver it in 4-5 days
- Next day, box turns up on doorstep containing the engine paint o_O

Anyway, enough rambling here's some photos:
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Manifold and brackets all clean and painted

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My shelf of shiny parts is getting full

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The gearbox before, the end seals were torn so there was oil and crap everywhere

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After cleaning, muuuch better!
 
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More progress!
Engine and box are now painted, all brackets and accessories are either cleaned or painted, with the exception of the supercharger (I need a wheel puller to get the pulley off) and the engine bay is clean and ready for paint.

Paint for the bay is mixed and in rattle cans, seals for the diff are here, gaskets for re-assembly are ordered, just need to get an engine mount and it'll be time to stick it back together and swing it back in!

I'm getting very tempted by a Hydra motorsports fuel rail, but don't know if I really need it, it'd be nice to have but the motor is basically stock and won't be making massive power in any case. Thoughts on the fuel rail?
 
All engine painting is done! (except the valve cover)

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Mocked up, waiting on some gaskets before sticking it all back together for good. This shows just how much room that supercharger takes up!

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Engine bay is painted too, Mazda Zeal Red, 41G, with a bunch of mica in it this colour absolutely pops in the sun but it's a pain to photograph lol. 3 coats of colour, 2 coats of clear for extra shine.
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Still sorting a RH engine mount as they've sent me an AT mount instead of a MT mount, minor hassle but it should be easy to sort.

Fuel rail is on hold for now, I'll get the car running and driving, then play with it as it's needed

Also canned the idea of lightening the flywheel, apparently it causes all sorts of strength and balance issues. A proper alloy flywheel is slightly out of budget for now, so it'll have to be the stock one until the next big round of mods. A word of warning to anyone doing this, it takes twice as long and costs three times as much as you plan for!

Next step is getting a clutch and swinging the whole lot back in without scratching anything, that'll be fun!
 
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