How Often Do You Change Your Oil?

every 15,500 miles.
oh wait, wrong car... :D


just follow the recommended oil change intervals and use the appropriate grade oil, you'll be fine.
If you really want to go above and beyond and get some solid scientific data around your oil's performance: https://www.blackstone-labs.com/
 
Whaaaaa??!!

GDI has no bearing on fuel contamination of the oil, .... none. That is caused by low tension piston rings and low combustion pressure from gentle driving to get high fuel mileage. Short trips don't heat the oil enough to evaporate the fuel.

For Pete's sake, look up the definition of shear.

Fuel in the oil is called "dilution". It does not necessarily "breakdown" the oil, but is still a bad thing.

Unless you have VERY leaky intake valve stem seals, the oil and/or oil change interval have NO impact on intake valve deposits, nor does the GDI system. That build-up most likely comes from operating the engine in Atkinson-cycle emulation mode, exhausting some of the intake air back into the intake manifold, along with oil vapors and unburned fuel.

You're so full of it your eyes are brown! Did you get your 8th grade diploma from Sears?!

You're a troll, .... and blocked!
 
Don't block him, I've started looking forward to these threads. - I don't know what to expect next!!!

Haha,my thoughts exactly!

I don't believe in blocking people for one,but I've gotten used to looking forward to the daily laugh...
 
My question based on the fact that I feel 150k miles is good enough life of a car and I plan to drive this 16.5 till 90k miles..
I drive 17 miles about 35 mins with speeds up to 60mph. I do cruise and at times get 34mpg. But then sometimes I do push it off a stop and let it go good. Add in weekend errands and monthly is 850 miles or so. I want to push oil change intervals to 10k miles cause I don't have high opinions about mazda dealership in Dallas. And also because that's what I think it should cost normally. If i turn on oil life method... Feel it might recommend 10k+ miles. But wanted to hear opinions
 
My question based on the fact that I feel 150k miles is good enough life of a car and I plan to drive this 16.5 till 90k miles..
I drive 17 miles about 35 mins with speeds up to 60mph. I do cruise and at times get 34mpg. But then sometimes I do push it off a stop and let it go good. Add in weekend errands and monthly is 850 miles or so. I want to push oil change intervals to 10k miles cause I don't have high opinions about mazda dealership in Dallas. And also because that's what I think it should cost normally. If i turn on oil life method... Feel it might recommend 10k+ miles. But wanted to hear opinions

There have been some oil analysis posted here that suggest you could easily do 10k miles. You might consider having one done for your vehicle to save yourself the $ and hassle in the long run.
 
My question based on the fact that I feel 150k miles is good enough life of a car and I plan to drive this 16.5 till 90k miles..
I drive 17 miles about 35 mins with speeds up to 60mph. I do cruise and at times get 34mpg. But then sometimes I do push it off a stop and let it go good. Add in weekend errands and monthly is 850 miles or so. I want to push oil change intervals to 10k miles cause I don't have high opinions about mazda dealership in Dallas. And also because that's what I think it should cost normally. If i turn on oil life method... Feel it might recommend 10k+ miles. But wanted to hear opinions

Why use a dealership to just change oil? That's a waste of extra money right there IMO. Nothing says you can't take it anywhere,or do it yourself as far as warranty concerns. I hope my car never sees the dealer again,if it does,unfortunately it will be something warranty related. Ugh...

Do you rotate your tires at 5k miles,or plan to wait till 10k? Place I use does free tire rotations,and it's still
Cheaper than the dealers oil change only...I've always done 5k miles for this alone,and I feel it's a safe interval,except on my Evo,which gets 3k mile changes and new spark plugs every oil change to boot...

With that said,you'd probably be okay with the 10k mile interval,but what has the oil monitor said so far?
 
Why use a dealership to just change oil? That's a waste of extra money right there IMO. Nothing says you can't take it anywhere,or do it yourself as far as warranty concerns. I hope my car never sees the dealer again,if it does,unfortunately it will be something warranty related. Ugh...
Not every dealership or car maker is the same.
This is just my personal experiences with my Nissans, but I've done oil changes at the dealership for 10 years.
In my case, the dealership has a drive through quick lube facility, similar to independent oil changers.
The cost is the same, and in some cases, less.
I'm in and out in 15 minutes.
The big reason for going there is I don't get the sales pitches that you get from independent, profit oriented businesses.
No pitch for a transmission flush, or new wipers, or air filter, cabin filter, brake fluid flush, etc., etc.
I also stand right next to the pit area and watch everything they do.
The other reason is that the oil changes are logged in the dealer's system. If I ever have a problem (and I've had none), then all the work is logged in their system.
Maybe your dealership is crap, and you've had a bad experience, for which I am sorry.
Hopefully when I get my new ride (95% sure it will be a Mazda 6), the dealership will be just as good as the Nissan folks I have dealt with over the years.
Cheers.
 
Not every dealership or car maker is the same.
This is just my personal experiences with my Nissans, but I've done oil changes at the dealership for 10 years.
In my case, the dealership has a drive through quick lube facility, similar to independent oil changers.
The cost is the same, and in some cases, less.
I'm in and out in 15 minutes.
The big reason for going there is I don't get the sales pitches that you get from independent, profit oriented businesses.
No pitch for a transmission flush, or new wipers, or air filter, cabin filter, brake fluid flush, etc., etc.
I also stand right next to the pit area and watch everything they do.
The other reason is that the oil changes are logged in the dealer's system. If I ever have a problem (and I've had none), then all the work is logged in their system.
Maybe your dealership is crap, and you've had a bad experience, for which I am sorry.
Hopefully when I get my new ride (95% sure it will be a Mazda 6), the dealership will be just as good as the Nissan folks I have dealt with over the years.
Cheers.

I don't get sales pitches,I stand by my ride as well. My services are logged also,by me,on mazda's website. I don't use quick lube independent places,screw that! I just don't like stealerships,any of them. End of story...
 
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Why use a dealership to just change oil? That's a waste of extra money right there IMO. Nothing says you can't take it anywhere,or do it yourself as far as warranty concerns. I hope my car never sees the dealer again,if it does,unfortunately it will be something warranty related. Ugh...

Do you rotate your tires at 5k miles,or plan to wait till 10k? Place I use does free tire rotations,and it's still
Cheaper than the dealers oil change only...I've always done 5k miles for this alone,and I feel it's a safe interval,except on my Evo,which gets 3k mile changes and new spark plugs every oil change to boot...

With that said,you'd probably be okay with the 10k mile interval,but what has the oil monitor said so far?

I don't have a garage. Don't want to use ramps and due to time crunch ask for loaner. Loaner car might make dealer markup a bit. I will turn variable oil monitor @19k miles.
 
I don't have a garage. Don't want to use ramps and due to time crunch ask for loaner. Loaner car might make dealer markup a bit. I will turn variable oil monitor @19k miles.

I hear ya. I have a garage and don't change my own either. It's worth the $20 to me for the labor and disposal of the oil,and a tire rotation to boot.
 
Where the hell you getting all that done for $20?

A local shop...it's actually $62. I pay $44 for the oil and filter through the site sponsor,Med Center Mazda,and my local shop charges $17.95 for a standard oil change with free tire rotation (I pay him that for the labor and tire rotation). My local dealer wants $85 for it,and then an extra surcharge for the Moly,so I'll pass,and it's a win win for me...
 
If I'm not mistaken, I pay close that amount, I think it was around $65-$69 for an oil change, tire rotation, Mazda full circle service inspection and a car wash (this is technically free) at the dealership for the CX-5.
 
Anyone know any good aftermarket oil filters that are larger in size or better then OEM? Or should I use OEM?

Interesting note, I accidentally added 6.3L of oil into the Mazda (quart over max) and the car didnt mind at all. This car seems to have a very sporty oil pan design which allows for more space.
 
Anyone know any good aftermarket oil filters that are larger in size or better then OEM? Or should I use OEM?

Interesting note, I accidentally added 6.3L of oil into the Mazda (quart over max) and the car didn’t mind at all. This car seems to have a very sporty oil pan design which allows for more space.

Just use OEM. If your oil has enough crap in it that an oversized filter is necessary, you have problems a filter won't fix.

How do you know the vehicle didn't mind? You can still get oil aeration from overfilling that may be difficult to notice. I wouldn't do it.

Mazda designs the filters to properly work with their oil system. I would stick with OEM, or recommended by OEM.
 
Just use OEM. If your oil has enough crap in it that an oversized filter is necessary, you have problems a filter won't fix.

How do you know the vehicle didn't mind? You can still get oil aeration from overfilling that may be difficult to notice. I wouldn't do it.

Mazda designs the filters to properly work with their oil system. I would stick with OEM, or recommended by OEM.

OEM +20

If you can't get OEM or just want to go aftermarket for the heck of it I like the Wix 57002. Just because it fits don't meet it meets skyactiv specs. Only a handful do (no anti drainback valve and higher PSI specs).
 
Just use OEM. If your oil has enough crap in it that an oversized filter is necessary, you have problems a filter won't fix.

How do you know the vehicle didn't mind? You can still get oil aeration from overfilling that may be difficult to notice. I wouldn't do it.

Mazda designs the filters to properly work with their oil system. I would stick with OEM, or recommended by OEM.

Not going to do that again, because Im not certain of the engine minded or not. The idle became a little smoother and the engine sounded exactly the same, so I decided not to drain because the car burns a little oil anyways. Ill just fill up an extra .5 quart next time so I dont need to top up before the next oil change.
 
Not going to do that again, because I’m not certain of the engine minded or not. The idle became a little smoother and the engine sounded exactly the same, so I decided not to drain because the car burns a little oil anyways. I’ll just fill up an extra .5 quart next time so I don’t need to top up before the next oil change.

So you're gonna put more in it than suggested again,except on purpose this time...That's cray cray...

Your post never cease to amaze me...
 
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