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- 2022 2.5GT
So how do you propose that this happens, and then goes away 5 minutes later? So odd...
I wouldn’t know without investigating it.
So how do you propose that this happens, and then goes away 5 minutes later? So odd...
My OEM rotors on my CX5 have warped twice in 60,000 miles. My brother has a 2015 with 28,000 miles and his just went. My son had the same issue on his 2015 Mazda 3 and ditched the OEM and bought aftermarket, which in 30,000 seems to have cured this issue. I forgot to ask him what he bought, but will post when I find out. Mazda OEM rotors and pads seem to employ weight saving skyactive technology by making them a lot thinner compared to my OEM BMW brakes which not only have never warped, but lasted 3 times longer. Makes sense that thicker pads should last longer, but my question is do thinner rotors warp easier? Have those of you that switched to aftermarket eliminated your warping issues?
Hmm, well I looked at the disc thickness on the 2016 Cx-5 and it is 28mm. Not sure which BMW you have but not found one that thick. I don’t know how thickness would effect warping. How do you know they were warped?
....and yet we have a brake engineer in this thread posting that some pads require your rotors be just shy of glowing red before they actually work optimally. You see any issue with the logic of a 70 to 0 stop overheating and warping a rotor yet?
I've seen first hand that the stock CX-5 rotor is thicker and heavier than some aftermarket rotors. I don't think Mazda employed weight savings there. I did at one point until I did actual comparisons.
Going back to the warping, just to clarify for folks that mention warping are you guys meaning grooves...like physical grooves? Like a an old school record? My research suggests they can be formed by small rocks or chunks of the pad getting caught between the pad and rotor. In the case of chunks of pad....they leave behind deposits on the rotor. You brake hard a few times to remove those deposits. Or get them turned. That said, I'll report my aftermarket rotors (thinner and lighter)after 20k miles of usage if it has warping/grooves. So far they are keeping a smooth surface .
My research also indicates: Pads are made in Japan. Caliper in Chine. Rotors....I suspect China. My aftermarket thinner/lighter rotors are made in the UK. They seem to hold up better but too early to tell. Will report next year.
.... did you read his post clearly? He mentioned high performance brakes operate like that. Your Mazda doesn’t have no high performance brakes, it’s temperature range for ideal operation is much, much lower then that. If you managed to get them glowing hot or even near there, you’ve permanently lost braking performance and your brakes are going into the garbage because some stock everyday Mazda brakes aren’t built for punishment like this.
Yes, I still think that intentionally doing 70-0 stop is completely moronic and terrible for your brakes. The quickest way to uncecessariky wear them out while warping your rotors in the process.
So what are these magical rotors made of that you would use with these pads? Hmmm?
I think they are talking about when the rotors physically warps from the heat (from putting the hot pad into the rotor while stopped after a hard braking incident for example) and this causes your front axle to vibrate while braking at high speeds due to the warpage
The root cause of the uneven wear is one of two things: either the rotor was installed out-of-true with the hub, or the tire was improperly torqued to the hub during the last tire change.
The unevenly torqued rotor, even with the correct amount of torque, will not be bent when the rotor is cold. However, as the rotor heats up in normal use, it will expand unevenly.
Rotors don't warp from heat, unless stresses pre-exist.
http://www.hendonpub.com/resources/article_archive/results/details?id=1787
What I have been saying all along...
Kindof EXACTLY what I am saying happens...maybe I know WTF I am talking about...just maybe...
If the discs are bright and shiny, don't touch them. If there are dark patches, 400 grit emery will take it off.Gonna change the brake pads soon for the CX-5 for the first time after 74k miles. The rotors are still smooth. Not going to turn them. What grit sand paper do you guys suggest for me to sand the rotors?
If the discs are bright and shiny, don't touch them. If there are dark patches, 400 grit emery will take it off.
Is there any point in using BMW OEM Stuff in your Mazda like Textar pads and Zimmermann rotors or should I just stick to the common stuff like EBC, Centric TRW
If the discs are bright and shiny, don't touch them. If there are dark patches, 400 grit emery will take it off.
If the discs are bright and shiny, don't touch them. If there are dark patches, 400 grit emery will take it off.
Anchorman, does that hold true, even if using a different pad material?
Light glazing easily came off with some brisk driving. Shiny once more I think I'll pay attention to the pins, the slider thingies, and brake grime. After 74k there should be some grime. Brake fluid changed just a couple months ago.
Anchorman, does that hold true, even if using a different pad material?
Not sure Textar makes pads for current mazdas? TRW makes suspension component stuff for BMW and pads for Audi. Per reading the EVO forums whose stock pads are performance based like the Ferodo DS2500's from Brembo. Of the cheap pads for daily driving (non track )they give a thumbs up to the StopTech semi-metallic made by Centric. Hence why I ordered the StopTech semi-metallic pads for the CX-5.
Hmm, well I looked at the disc thickness on the 2016 Cx-5 and it is 28mm. Not sure which BMW you have but not found one that thick. I don’t know how thickness would effect warping. How do you know they were warped?
Every time I hit the brakes the front end would pulsate terribly. The harder I hit them the worse the vibration. I am beginning to think the dealer monkeys are over torquing the wheels? I backed off the bolts and torqued them this time so I will see if this changes anything.
Warped rotors have nothing to do with over torqueing the bolts, it happens when you do aggressive high speed stops (especially repeatedly and then coming to a stop, searing your hot pad against the rotor.
It’s ekther you resurface the rotors or just get tougher ones and be a little easier on them. At least put the car in neutral or pull the e brake when coming to a hard stop from high speed to not ruin the front rotors.
Anchorman, can you just answer and resolve this once and for all? Where did all these people get these misinformed ideas about warped rotors?
Sorry, but I beat the snot out of my bmw brakes and never had any issues with them. Brakes are made to stop under any circumstance, please don’t spread your BS that I have to baby the CX5 to prevent warped brakes from happening, it just exposes that this car has the most inferior brakes of any car I’ve owned and your relentless babble defending it is getting old. 3 Mazda’s in our family and everyone of them has the same issue.