50K+ Mile Owners - Intake Carbon Buildup

GJ-Molestor

Banned
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2011 BMW 528i, 2015 Mazda 6, 1995 Nissan Maxima Manual
Hey everyone, thought I would bring an inherit issue of our direct injection motors to light and make sure people are aware of this.

For a long time, fuel systems were port injected, meaning that the gasoline would flow through the intake valves. Gasoline acts as a detergent so it would clean the intake ports which made carbon buildup non exsistant.

More recently, cars have switched to direct injection which directly sprays fuel into the combustion chamber at a higher pressure for a cleaner, burn and more torque. As a result, carbon now builds up on these valves.

You will notice closer to 60k Miles that the engine may not run as smooth as before particularly at low RPM, fuel economy will drop a little and the engine will not sound as smooth as before. If you are a conservative driver and dont get onto the throttle often, the buildup will occur much faster. Changing your oil more frequently, roughly every 5000 Miles also helps.

There is one thing you can do to help delay the buildup of excess carbon on your valves. I recommend bringing the engine up to redline once a week in a slow, smooth pull to help clear out the carbon.

My dad never revs the car past 3k RPM, and you can feel it affecting the motor. Whenever I get an opportunity to drive the car, I do 2-3 redlines In a row and If you have your window down, you can smell the huge amount of s*** that you just cleared out of your engine and exhaust. The smell is truly very strong and the engine runs smoother then before right afterwards.

Occasionally winding out your motor (2-4 times a month) will slow the buildup of carbon considerably. Those of you who never do this, I suggest trying it today on the highway with the window open. The exhaust smells terrible the first 2-3 times until you clear It out and you will feel the engine run smoother.
 
If you can smell your own exhaust while driving forward you have bigger things to worry about than carbon build up.

At 69k my engine runs as smooth as it ever has. At idle, I can hardly tell that it's on from inside the car.
 
If you can smell your own exhaust while driving forward you have bigger things to worry about than carbon build up.

At 69k my engine runs as smooth as it ever has. At idle, I can hardly tell that it's on from inside the car.

The motor is perfectly healthy. You never smell the exhaust unless I floor it and it hasnt been revved out in a long time. By the second or third pull you dont smell anything anymore.

Do your regularly rev out your motor? Or at least once in a while?
 
I redline once every few days. Hey its healthy for the engine :)
 
I redline once every few days. Hey its healthy for the engine :)

Not if you redline excessively.

Those who regularly redline their engine will not need to worry about carbon buildup for a long time
 
Just to clarify - redlining for AT owners means putting in manual and pressing the throttle. I expect it to auto upshift but will let you go higher RPM than regular AT.
Also - what if there are conservative drivers who dont do this - and now need to clean up? Is this part of MZD service?
I am worried about any issue that happens b4 90k miles. After 90k its the 2nd owner's issue but I love used cars and folks who keep them on road safely reliably longer.
 
Just to clarify - redlining for AT owners means putting in manual and pressing the throttle. I expect it to auto upshift but will let you go higher RPM than regular AT.
Also - what if there are conservative drivers who dont do this - and now need to clean up? Is this part of MZD service?
I am worried about any issue that happens b4 90k miles. After 90k its the 2nd owner's issue but I love used cars and folks who keep them on road safely reliably longer.

You dont need to be in manual mode for full throttle pulls. It can be done in automatic mode just fine, I dont like how it holds the gear without upshifting in manual mode

What is MZD?

Conservative drivers will need to do a walnut blast every 50k, probably even earlier.

Walnut blasting/intake port cleaning isnt very popular yet.
 
Just to clarify - redlining for AT owners means putting in manual and pressing the throttle. I expect it to auto upshift but will let you go higher RPM than regular AT.
Also - what if there are conservative drivers who dont do this - and now need to clean up? Is this part of MZD service?
I am worried about any issue that happens b4 90k miles. After 90k its the 2nd owner's issue but I love used cars and folks who keep them on road safely reliably longer.
I don't think you need to put it in Manual mode and literally make the tach go up to redline. You'll be hitting the fuel cutoff anyway so it won't be doing anything more, than if you take it up to redline in auto mode. As long as it does a max RPM shift for the gear, it should be fine.

This service is not exactly specific to Mazdas nor is it listed in the manual. This is just regular maintenance for all engines, but a more important one for direct injection engines because the fuel does not get to clean off the valves, because it is sprayed directly into the combustion chamber. This is also why using Shell 93 octane won't really help the intake valves even if that fuel has the best cleaning ability out of all.
 
I don't think you need to put it in Manual mode and literally make the tach go up to redline. You'll be hitting the fuel cutoff anyway so it won't be doing anything more, than if you take it up to redline in auto mode. As long as it does a max RPM shift for the gear, it should be fine.

This service is not exactly specific to Mazdas nor is it listed in the manual. This is just regular maintenance for all engines, but a more important one for direct injection engines because the fuel does not get to clean off the valves, because it is sprayed directly into the combustion chamber. This is also why using Shell 93 octane won't really help the intake valves even if that fuel has the best cleaning ability out of all.

Higher octane fuel would result in a cleaner burn thus reducing carbon build-up. But unless you have an ECU tune like orange virus to make 91 octane fuel compatible with your ECU, youre just wasting your time.

Intake port buildup on DI motors is a real thing! I recommend walnut blasting every 60k Miles. You can probably go to 90k Just fine if you regularly redline the motor.

Anyone know how tough it is to remove the intake manifold?
 
Yes the Mazda Skyactiv ECU does adjust for the higher octane fuel so if you want the extra 4-5% more horsepower, the higher octane will give it to you.
 
Yes the Mazda Skyactiv ECU does adjust for the higher octane fuel so if you want the extra 4-5% more horsepower, the higher octane will give it to you.

Ive literally read everywhere else that skyactiv engines do not adapt to premium fuel.
 
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As of so far, it seems that carbon buildup is only an issue for those who do not regularly rev out their motor.
 
Regular has slightly higher energy content than premium, but premium has higher knock resistance. So in engines that are designed to operate within their knock limit with regular fuel, you'll actually get slightly better performance and fuel economy by using regular. But Mazda's 2.5 engines are designed with unusually high compression ratios with knock sensors and ECU to control knock, so they can operate at their knock limit over a range of fuels and the high CR allows them to benefit from using more knock resistant fuel. In the 2.5L, the difference is fairly minor. In the 2.5T, the difference is significant. That's somewhat common with turbos.
 
Regular has slightly higher energy content than premium, but premium has higher knock resistance. So in engines that are designed to operate within their knock limit with regular fuel, you'll actually get slightly better performance and fuel economy by using regular. But Mazda's 2.5 engines are designed with unusually high compression ratios with knock sensors and ECU to control knock, so they can operate at their knock limit over a range of fuels and the high CR allows them to benefit from using more knock resistant fuel. In the 2.5L, the difference is fairly minor. In the 2.5T, the difference is significant. That's somewhat common with turbos.

Correct, turbo engines always benefit more from increased airflow as well, such as a catless downpipe, which would yield slightly more gains then catless headers on a similar NA engine.

Here in Canada, we are lucky to have ethanol-free 91 octane fuel at the shell gas station. Every other fuel in ALL of North America, including American shell 91 has ethanol in it. Ive tested all these different fuels in my BMW, including 87 fuel and found that it not only noticeably decreased performance and torque, but completely ruined my fuel economy as well.

I found that the ethanol-free shell is by far the best fuel I have ever tried. It was even better then Esso or Petro-Canadas 93/94 octane fuel!
 
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