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Thread: CX5 Alternator

  1. #16
    Registered Member yrwei52's Avatar
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    Arrow CX5 Alternator

    Quote Originally Posted by mhj View Post
    Yeah I hope you're right! This is my first Mazda and if the alternator is bad, then this will be my last.
    I think we saw people saying this a few times here before. Thanks for your honesty and many ex-Mazda owners wouldn't say anything just left including some of my best friends. I hope Mazda can hear you and keep up the quality and reliability as these two are the most important thing for car buyers.

    Like others, I do believe your alternator is fine, otherwise you or your sister should see this warning light in the instrument cluster:

  2. #17
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    CX-5, 2013

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    Anyone have good luck finding batteries tat are reliable for this car? It does seem to be pretty demanding.

  3. #18
    Registered Member yrwei52's Avatar
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    Arrow CX5 Alternator

    Quote Originally Posted by mhj View Post
    Anyone have good luck finding batteries tat are reliable for this car? It does seem to be pretty demanding.
    You need a Group 35 battery although I usually get OEM battery from dealer for better fit. Here is a thread with good info on CX-5 battery:

    Battery Suggestions?

  4. #19
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    Just to update everyone, I drove the car around for a while with no issues, autozone test showed bad battery so I put in a walmart battery for $93 with 3 yr warranty. It drove just fine, no issues with battery test and no issues since.

    Moral of the story: don't trust Autozone guy or a woman's opnion when it comes to a car (sorry ladies)!

  5. #20
    Registered Member CX-5um's Avatar

    13' CX-5 and 16' Mazda6 both Touring w/Tech/Bose

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    Quote Originally Posted by mhj View Post
    Just to update everyone, I drove the car around for a while with no issues, autozone test showed bad battery so I put in a walmart battery for $93 with 3 yr warranty. It drove just fine, no issues with battery test and no issues since.

    Moral of the story: don't trust Autozone guy or a woman's opnion when it comes to a car (sorry ladies)!
    Cool beans!!

  6. #21
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    AFAIK iStop engines requires deep cycle batteries but regular batteries will surely work.
    I turned off the iStop function in my CX-5 because it gets so hot here in this side of the earth when the AC compressor turns off with the iStop. A friend also told me that the iStop (consistently turning off and on me the engine) puts a heavy toll on our engine support which is expensive because it's fluid filled.

  7. #22
    Registered Member Moonlighter's Avatar

    CX5 Akera 2.2 Diesel

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nelson de Leon View Post
    AFAIK iStop engines requires deep cycle batteries but regular batteries will surely work.
    I turned off the iStop function in my CX-5 because it gets so hot here in this side of the earth when the AC compressor turns off with the iStop. A friend also told me that the iStop (consistently turning off and on me the engine) puts a heavy toll on our engine support which is expensive because it's fluid filled.
    They dont yet get iStop in the USA.

    IStop does not require a deep cycle battery - in any case, deep cycle are not recommended as starting batteries. Deep Cycle Batteries are designed to be 'cycled' (discharged and recharged) many times over, so while a car battery aims to deliver a burst of energy for a short period, a deep cycle battery gives power at a steady rate for an extended period.

    You may be confusing them with AGM batteries, as many Euro cars with stop/start systems use them. You can get AGM batteries as either starting batteries or deep cycle, and the deep cycle versions are used for solar storage batteries in things like caravans and boats (as a house battery, not starter).

    However, at least here in Aus, Mazdas with iStop dont come with an AGM battery as standard, its a flooded cell lead acid battery, although a special stop/start version. I will replace mine, when its necessary, with an AGM Euro spec stop/start battery.

    Your friend is misinformed, Mazda's iStop system is very efficient and does not put extra strain on anything. Its very reliable and durable.

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Moonlighter View Post
    They dont yet get iStop in the USA.

    IStop does not require a deep cycle battery - in any case, deep cycle are not recommended as starting batteries. Deep Cycle Batteries are designed to be 'cycled' (discharged and recharged) many times over, so while a car battery aims to deliver a burst of energy for a short period, a deep cycle battery gives power at a steady rate for an extended period.

    You may be confusing them with AGM batteries, as many Euro cars with stop/start systems use them. You can get AGM batteries as either starting batteries or deep cycle, and the deep cycle versions are used for solar storage batteries in things like caravans and boats (as a house battery, not starter).

    However, at least here in Aus, Mazdas with iStop dont come with an AGM battery as standard, its a flooded cell lead acid battery, although a special stop/start version. I will replace mine, when its necessary, with an AGM Euro spec stop/start battery.

    Your friend is misinformed, Mazda's iStop system is very efficient and does not put extra strain on anything. Its very reliable and durable.
    Deep cycle and ordinary automotive batteries are both designed to be cycled repeatedly. However deep cycle batteries are designed to last longer even at 50-70% discharge cycle.

    For that extra burst you are referring to, it must be the CCA you are referring to. It's true that deep cycle batteries have lower CCA hence the need for bigger battery to supply the CCA.

    It was my understanding that AGM are deep cycle battery.

    https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Deep-cycle_battery

    Deep-cycle lead-acid batteries generally fall into two distinct categories; flooded (FLA) and*valve-regulated lead-acid*(VRLA), with the VRLA type further subdivided into two types,*Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM)*and*Gel.


    I think my friend is correct. It's not the iStop system that is literally putting a strain but the constant engine stop and engine starting (as part of the iStop system) that is putting a strain on the engine support. I think it's logical because no matter how efficient our engine is, starting and turning of a machine will definitely put additional strain on the engine support considering the centrifugal force and vibration created by the starting engine.

  9. #24
    Registered Member Moonlighter's Avatar

    CX5 Akera 2.2 Diesel

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    Ordinary staring batteries are not SPECIFICALLY DESIGNED to be deeply discharged and recharged repeatedly. Deep cycles (DC) batteries are. Its not a difficult concept.

    You should stop trying to justify your mistaken statement that a DC battery is required for Mazda iStop vehicles.

    Yes, you can use a DC battery to start a engine and it works. You can also use a starting battery to run fridges, electric tolling motors etc where significant discharge/recharge cycles happen regularly.

    But neither will perform as well or as long in their unintended role, as how they will perform if used for the purposes for which they are designed and intended. And DC batteries are usually more expensive than a similarly specced starting battery, so it doesnt make economic sense to use one as a starting battery either.

    I have used both battery types extensively for 40 odd years in the boating/marine environment, so I do speak on the topic with some level of pratcical experience, not just theory.

    I use a deep cycle 120ah battery on my river boat to power my bow mount electric outboard, because that is what gives it the most useful run time and because the deep cycle is DESIGNED TO and will tolerate the 40-50% discharge and recharge cycles this type of use involves. It will outlast and outperform a normal car starting battery performing such a role by a large factor. Been there, done that.

    I use a high cca starting battery to start my outboard motor, because thats what it requires to fire the efi system up. So one boat, 2 batteries, each assigned to their appropriate role, for optimum performance, battery life and $ value of both.

    That is why there are two types of batteries, each designed to be used for different purposes. One for starting, one for prolonged power output. If they were the same or were truly interchangeable like you seem to want to argue, why would there be batteries designated as starting or deep cycle available?? It makes no sense.

    AGM simply describes the battery construction. Despite what youve been told or googled, there are both AGM starting batteries and AGM deep cycle batteries. Just because a battery is AGM construction, doesnt mean that its also a deep cycle battery.

    So, to get back to what started this debate and deal with the facts:

    1. You are incorrect. IStop does not require a deep cycle battery.

    2. The Mazda iStop system is designed not to put extra strain on anything, not even the starter motor. Google how it actually works and you will discover the facts. Here is a start for you - read the whole lot, and view the video, and you will discover interesting facts as opposed to assumption and rumour about what is involved.

    http://discoveryourmazda.com.au/mazda-istop-explained/

    I trust that this info assists your knowledge of batteries and iStop.

    Now, your turn to educate me - What is this reference to a "fluid filled engine support" that iStop supposedly puts strain on? Can you provide some References from Mazda that explians it please?

  10. #25
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    I'm not trying to debate with you. This would be a learning experience for me. Yeah I guess I'm wrong in saying that the iStop system requires deep cycle batteries. It was just my opinion based on the prolonged running / usage of the acc including the AC blower unit (thereby lowering the current storage) hence my opinion on deep cycle.

    Now for the engine mount (sometimes called engine support), here's the reference:
    http://www.mcx5.org/engine_mount-1438.html
    I guess I cannot support my statement with links to justify the additional strain. However it is already common knowledge that cranking an engine involves movement specifically vibration. And said vibration is absorbed by the engine mount / support hence my opinion about the additional stress. And said fluid filled engine mount is more expensive than the regular rubber support. The link you provided does not say anything about that but it doesn't necessarily mean that if it's not there, it's not true. That being said I will not enforce my opinion to you nor to any other readers.
    Last edited by Nelson de Leon; 09-29-2017 at 11:47 AM.

  11. #26
    Registered Member erhayes's Avatar
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    #1=bad battery. #2=Bad battery ground. #3 bad diode in the alternator. Ed

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