PDFs replaced for completeness of the thread!
Thanks so much for those! Do you have anything that explains the "electric parking brake automatic adjustment" that's mentioned there?
looks like the links Anchorman posted with the PDFs are not working
Once the rear brake is in maintenance mode, you can compress the caliper piston without rotating it. See post #14 and the following thread by tomcat1446:From what I understand there is no need to use the caliper piston tool anymore. Just put the maintenance mode and apply pressure on the piston?
I'm about to change my rear brake this weekend and would be great if someone could send me the pdf, the new links doesnt seem to work.
For front disk brake we always dont turn the caliper piston to back it in but compress it with a brake tool or big C clamp.So can i just use a big C clamp to compress the piston after putting it in maintenance mode (the way I used to do it all the time)? Compress it for the front too? I ordered the box tool to spin it, but from the sound of it it looks like I don't even need that. going to be doing my rear brake pads/rotors this weekend and front pads too just for funzies. i have 48k miles on my car and the rear got so low the rotor is scored.
I*ve added the pdf*s for changing the pads. It is fairly straight forward but be careful not to turn the piston while pushing it back into the calliper.
Curious about something, do you personally crack the caliper bleeder valves open before you push the caliper pistons back into place for a pad replacement?
I have never done that. Not sure why you would.
Think about it this way. When you take your foot off the break, nothing pushes the pistons back... they float back on their own due to lack of pressure. When you push them back for pad replacement, you are doing it faster, further travel, but you don't want the chance of air getting in the lines.
Using a clamp to push the pistons back slowly, just returns fluid to the reservoir. If this didn't happen naturally as well, the brakes would bind.
I can see your point, but I personally have never cracked the caliper bleeder valve open when I push the caliper piston back even with ABS. And Ive never seen brake shops doing this way too. Unfortunately Anchormans attached documents arent available anymore, but I remember that Mazdas document doesnt say we need to open bleeder valve when we push back the caliper piston.You're forcing old dirty brake fluid back through the ABS unit which has intricate valving and very small passage ways...very expensive to replace. I've always done it on cars with ABS. I did brakes on my stepdaughter's 2004 Pontiac without doing this and it threw an ABS code, was a very expensive lesson for me. Was wondering Anchorman's opinion. Some opinions here about it...https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2158736/1
I can see your point, but I personally have never cracked the caliper bleeder valve open when I push the caliper piston back even with ABS. And I*ve never seen brake shops doing this way too. Unfortunately Anchorman*s attached documents aren*t available anymore, but I remember that Mazda*s document doesn*t say we need to open bleeder valve when we push back the caliper piston.
My theory is any debris in brake fluid which is big enough to clog the ABS pump should still stay at the bottom near the caliper when we push the caliper piston back. If the brake fluid is so dirty which can affect ABS pump functioning, it won*t matter if you push small amount of brake fluid backwards through the pump. Of course if we flush brake fluid once for every 2~3 years like many European vehicles listed in the maintenance schedule, we should have no worries on any ABS pump failures caused by dirty brake fluid.
Another point I should make is its very easy to introduce some air into the caliper with the caliper bleeder valve open while pushing the caliper piston back very slowly with brake piston compressing tool or big C clamp.Not surprised, common practice not to open bleeder screws and it's not something you'd see in a service manual, usually..
http://my.cardone.com/techdocs/PT 12-0001.pdf
Where did you get such information that you need to turn the piston of the rear brake caliper to retract it? Did you put EPB in maintenance mode? If you push the piston of the rear brake caliper while rotating it, the caliper may get damaged! Heres the official procedure to replace the rear disk pads for 2016 Mazda CX-5 with EPB:Looks like Ive managed to do the same thing you did. Piston is all the way out. I took off the motor and Im trying to manually turn it back but it doesnt seem to be moving. Turning it clockwise. Was there an addition step needed to retract the epb parts inside the piston? Were you able to fix yours or did you take it in?