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Thread: 2016 cx5 rear brakes

  1. #46
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    Mercedes

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    Thanks yrwei52. I had glanced over that thread before and am glad I read the whole thing now after your link.

  2. #47
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    Mercedes

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    Thanks to these forums, I was able to replace rear pads on 2016 cx 9 Thank You!!

    I can confirm getting into and out of Maintenance mode works the same on 2016 cx9 awd (followed the procedure posted here)

    Also of note:
    Only retract piston just enough to fit the new pads. Then if the piton notch is not at the correct alignment, then you won't be able to close the caliper (because it will hit the button (raised) on the back of the pad) and then you can make the slight rotation to correct alignment.
    (If the piston is pushed in more than necessary to the point there is too much of a gap... then you may not realize misalignment of the piston notch and the bump on the pad back. I've read in the other thread (I think) that someone had issues the pad bump getting hit by the piston notch. It could be that the piston notch was off alignment and that might have been the reason for that problem.

    After getting out of Maintenance mode, pump brakes to get the piston to push the pads. Note: Instructions also say to pump brakes!!
    Last edited by seeex9; 03-13-2019 at 12:27 PM.

  3. #48
    Registered Member

    2016.5 CX-5 GT

    Join Date
    Sep 2016
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    NA
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    269
    Quote Originally Posted by seeex9 View Post
    Thanks to these forums, I was able to replace rear pads on 2016 cx 9 Thank You!!

    I can confirm getting into and out of Maintenance mode works the same on 2016 cx9 awd (followed the procedure posted here)

    Also of note:
    Only retract piston just enough to fit the new pads. Then if the piton notch is not at the correct alignment, then you won't be able to close the caliper (because it will hit the button (raised) on the back of the pad) and then you can make the slight rotation to correct alignment.
    (If the piston is pushed in more than necessary to the point there is too much of a gap... then you may not realize misalignment of the piston notch and the bump on the pad back. I've read in the other thread (I think) that someone had issues the pad bump getting hit by the piston notch. It could be that the piston notch was off alignment and that might have been the reason for that problem.

    After getting out of Maintenance mode, pump brakes to get the piston to push the pads. Note: Instructions also say to pump brakes!!

    I believe I read somewhere recently to pump the brakes PRIOR to getting out of maintenence mode ? pumping the brakes will advance the caliper notch straight to line up with and catch the rear brake pad pin bump within the rear caliper notch cavity. If you turn off maintenance mode before pumping the brakes , the e-brake motor will rotate the caliper and the notch won't be aligned with the brake pad pin anymore and it'll keep spinning for a long time.

    I'm not sure which is right, see post #25 in link below and

    my post #22 if notch doesn't line up exctaly you will get a clanking/metal snapping noise where the notch keeps slipping on the brake pin...

    https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...intenance+mode
    Last edited by blackcx5; 03-13-2019 at 04:05 PM.

  4. #49
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    Mercedes

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    blackcx5, yes I was referring to your post #22 in the other thread. Thanks for posting that and hope you fixed your brake issue without too much trouble.

    Thanks to your post I had read that issue before doing mine. Just to be on the safe side, I also did press the brake pedal a few times BEFORE getting out of maintenance mode.

    Anyway, in my case, I don't think pressing the brake pedal moved the piston to press pads against the rotor. I had checked before pressing the brake, I could rotate the rotor little bit back and forth as the pads were not pressed against the rotor. After pressing the brake a few times, it was still possible to move that rotor as before. So I didn't think pumping the brake pedal pushed the pistons -- I don't know why it did not..

    (may be because I had disconnected the negative battery cable at the time. I don't know if that matters.) I don't understand. Also the pedal became very stiff and hard to push after couple of times.


    Now I remember I also pressed the brake pedal few times after connecting the battery negative cable and before getting out of maintenance mode. Pedal was still stiff but I don't know at that time if the piston pushed the pads (I had put the wheels back on...so I don't know.) Pedal becomes normal feel when power is on.

    Motor won't be able to rotate the piston if the bump on the pad is in the notch of the piston and there is no gap between the rotor and the pad. The bump on the back of the pad is may be 3 to 4 mm so unless there is at least such a gap, the motor can't put it out of alignment if it was already in the notch. That's the way I understand it.
    Last edited by seeex9; 03-13-2019 at 05:45 PM.

  5. #50
    Registered Member

    2016 Mazda CX-5 Sport

    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    FL
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    My mechanic changed the rear brake pads on my 2016 CX-5 sport last July. He used the 1624 part # for the rear pads. Is this part # ok for th 2016 CX-5 Sport?

  6. #51
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    Sep 2019
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anchorman View Post
    Ive added the pdfs for changing the pads. It is fairly straight forward but be careful not to turn the piston while pushing it back into the calliper.
    Where can I Find this pdf?

  7. #52
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    Sep 2019
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    Quote Originally Posted by txt990 View Post
    My mechanic changed the rear brake pads on my 2016 CX-5 sport last July. He used the 1624 part # for the rear pads. Is this part # ok for th 2016 CX-5 Sport?
    I am not sure, but some websites say it's part number 1846.... anyone here know for sure?

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