2016 CX-5 rear brakes...Maintenance mode?

From what I understand there is no need to use the caliper piston tool anymore. Just put the maintenance mode and apply pressure on the piston?
I'm about to change my rear brake this weekend and would be great if someone could send me the pdf, the new links doesnt seem to work.
 
I googled CX-5 Maintenance Mode and found the following:

(since the PDF links don't work, perhaps @Anchorman can confirm the below)

Mazda integrated EPB system caliper servicing without a scan tool
Mazda provides a non-scan tool option for 2016/2017 CX-5s to retract the integrated caliper back for service, that is very similar to the process for Fords. This procedure can be followed to enter maintenance mode.

Entering service mode:
1. Switch the ignition ON, and don*t touch the brake pedal (the engine must be off throughout the procedure).
2. Release the EPB. Note Steps 3 and 4 must be done within five seconds.
3. While simultaneously pressing the accelerator pedal down fully, and pressing the EPB switch and holding both, switch the ignition OFF. You need to hold both the accelerator and EPB switch in this position during the next step.
4. Switch the ignition ON, while maintaining the depressed pedal and EPB switch.
5. If you have done everything correctly you should hear the caliper motors retracting. The yellow parking brake symbol with exclamation point will now be illuminated, indicating you are now in maintenance mode.
6. Switch the ignition off.

NOTE: Mazda does not want the piston rotated when servicing the caliper, just pushed back. Rotating the piston may damage the caliper internal parts.

Exiting service mode:
1. Switch ignition ON, engine off. Note Steps 2 and 3 must be done within 5 seconds.
2. While simultaneously pressing the accelerator pedal down fully, and pressing the EPB switch and holding, switch the ignition OFF. You need to hold both the accelerator and EPB switch in this position during the next step.
3. Switch the ignition ON, while maintaining the depressed pedal and EPB switch.
4. You should hear the caliper motors performing the automatic adjustment and the yellow warning light should go out, indicating maintenance mode has ended.
5. Switch the ignition OFF.
 
From what I understand there is no need to use the caliper piston tool anymore. Just put the maintenance mode and apply pressure on the piston?
I'm about to change my rear brake this weekend and would be great if someone could send me the pdf, the new links doesnt seem to work.
Once the rear brake is in maintenance mode, you can compress the caliper piston without rotating it. See post #14 and the following thread by tomcat1446:

Maintenance Mode for 2016/2017 CX-5 electronic brakes
 
So can i just use a big C clamp to compress the piston after putting it in maintenance mode (the way I used to do it all the time)? Compress it for the front too? I ordered the box tool to spin it, but from the sound of it it looks like I don't even need that. going to be doing my rear brake pads/rotors this weekend and front pads too just for funzies. i have 48k miles on my car and the rear got so low the rotor is scored.
 
So can i just use a big C clamp to compress the piston after putting it in maintenance mode (the way I used to do it all the time)? Compress it for the front too? I ordered the box tool to spin it, but from the sound of it it looks like I don't even need that. going to be doing my rear brake pads/rotors this weekend and front pads too just for funzies. i have 48k miles on my car and the rear got so low the rotor is scored.
For front disk brake we always dont turn the caliper piston to back it in but compress it with a brake tool or big C clamp.

For rear disc brake we need to turn the piston to back it in whenever the rear parking brake is using the same disk brake mechanism.

Now with the EPB which has a motor for parking brake, the maintenance mode will back off the parking brake gear disengaging from caliper piston, so we can safely compress the piston back in without rotating. Read Anchormans pdf files above for further detail.

You may already know, but watch the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir while youre backing off the piston as the brake fluid could overflow and it will eat the paint. And you may need new rotors if the rotors are too thin to be resurfaced.
 
I*ve added the pdf*s for changing the pads. It is fairly straight forward but be careful not to turn the piston while pushing it back into the calliper.

Curious about something, do you personally crack the caliper bleeder valves open before you push the caliper pistons back into place for a pad replacement?
 
Curious about something, do you personally crack the caliper bleeder valves open before you push the caliper pistons back into place for a pad replacement?

I have never done that. Not sure why you would.

Think about it this way. When you take your foot off the break, nothing pushes the pistons back... they float back on their own due to lack of pressure. When you push them back for pad replacement, you are doing it faster, further travel, but you don't want the chance of air getting in the lines.

Using a clamp to push the pistons back slowly, just returns fluid to the reservoir. If this didn't happen naturally as well, the brakes would bind.
 
I have never done that. Not sure why you would.

Think about it this way. When you take your foot off the break, nothing pushes the pistons back... they float back on their own due to lack of pressure. When you push them back for pad replacement, you are doing it faster, further travel, but you don't want the chance of air getting in the lines.

Using a clamp to push the pistons back slowly, just returns fluid to the reservoir. If this didn't happen naturally as well, the brakes would bind.

You're forcing old dirty brake fluid back through the ABS unit which has intricate valving and very small passage ways...very expensive to replace. I've always done it on cars with ABS. I did brakes on my stepdaughter's 2004 Pontiac without doing this and it threw an ABS code, was a very expensive lesson for me. Was wondering Anchorman's opinion. Some opinions here about it...https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2158736/1

 
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You're forcing old dirty brake fluid back through the ABS unit which has intricate valving and very small passage ways...very expensive to replace. I've always done it on cars with ABS. I did brakes on my stepdaughter's 2004 Pontiac without doing this and it threw an ABS code, was a very expensive lesson for me. Was wondering Anchorman's opinion. Some opinions here about it...https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2158736/1

I can see your point, but I personally have never cracked the caliper bleeder valve open when I push the caliper piston back even with ABS. And Ive never seen brake shops doing this way too. Unfortunately Anchormans attached documents arent available anymore, but I remember that Mazdas document doesnt say we need to open bleeder valve when we push back the caliper piston.

My theory is any debris in brake fluid which is big enough to clog the ABS pump should still stay at the bottom near the caliper when we push the caliper piston back. If the brake fluid is so dirty which can affect ABS pump functioning, it wont matter if you push small amount of brake fluid backwards through the pump. Of course if we flush brake fluid once for every 2~3 years like many European vehicles listed in the maintenance schedule, we should have no worries on any ABS pump failures caused by dirty brake fluid. :)
 
I can see your point, but I personally have never cracked the caliper bleeder valve open when I push the caliper piston back even with ABS. And I*ve never seen brake shops doing this way too. Unfortunately Anchorman*s attached documents aren*t available anymore, but I remember that Mazda*s document doesn*t say we need to open bleeder valve when we push back the caliper piston.

My theory is any debris in brake fluid which is big enough to clog the ABS pump should still stay at the bottom near the caliper when we push the caliper piston back. If the brake fluid is so dirty which can affect ABS pump functioning, it won*t matter if you push small amount of brake fluid backwards through the pump. Of course if we flush brake fluid once for every 2~3 years like many European vehicles listed in the maintenance schedule, we should have no worries on any ABS pump failures caused by dirty brake fluid. :)

Not surprised, common practice not to open bleeder screws and it's not something you'd see in a service manual, usually. But like I said, I got bit by it once and it's not something I'd want go through again, very expensive.

http://my.cardone.com/techdocs/PT 12-0001.pdf
 
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cracked the caliper bleeder valve open when I push the caliper piston back

Not surprised, common practice not to open bleeder screws and it's not something you'd see in a service manual, usually..

http://my.cardone.com/techdocs/PT 12-0001.pdf
Another point I should make is its very easy to introduce some air into the caliper with the caliper bleeder valve open while pushing the caliper piston back very slowly with brake piston compressing tool or big C clamp.
 
Ran into big problems with this last night. I had the caliper off prior to engaging maintenance mode and the piston pushed out instead of retracting. I could not compress it even though it was in maintenance mode. I had to remove the EPB motor and manually turn the adjustment bolt (clockwise) in order to get the piston to go back in far enough to get the caliper back over the old brake pads. I could not get it compressed enough (about 1/4" or so short) to get it over the new pads. And now the EPB maintenance light cannot be turned off. Something's screwed up with it. I noticed that once I got it compressed to a certain point, it would not compress anymore I think because the piston started turning with the adjustment bolt. Wondering if clamping the piston while I turn the adjuster might allow it to compress more? Either way I doubt I'll get the maintenance light to go off again and I'd still have the other side to do. bummed.
 
Looks like Ive managed to do the same thing you did. Piston is all the way out. I took off the motor and Im trying to manually turn it back but it doesnt seem to be moving. Turning it clockwise. Was there an addition step needed to retract the epb parts inside the piston? Were you able to fix yours or did you take it in?
 
Looks like Ive managed to do the same thing you did. Piston is all the way out. I took off the motor and Im trying to manually turn it back but it doesnt seem to be moving. Turning it clockwise. Was there an addition step needed to retract the epb parts inside the piston? Were you able to fix yours or did you take it in?
Where did you get such information that you need to turn the piston of the rear brake caliper to retract it? Did you put EPB in maintenance mode? If you push the piston of the rear brake caliper while rotating it, the caliper may get damaged! Heres the official procedure to replace the rear disk pads for 2016 Mazda CX-5 with EPB:

HELP! Can't get the rear brake piston to compress! 2016 CX5
 
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