2017 Squealing Rear Brakes

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2017 CX-5 GT AWD Premium
Is anyone else dealing with squealing rear brakes on initial start-up?

I have a bit over 6,000 miles. There is no steering wheel shaking when I brake. I mentioned it to the dealer during my 5k service. Of course they couldn't recreate the issue. Not surprised. However, it's something I can always recreate. They said they inspected rear brakes and everything checked out. Rotors were measured and brake pads don't show any uneven wear.

On initial start-up, I will get a high pitch squealing when stopping from 20mph or under. Once I get onto the main road or highway and do a few stops from 40mph or more, the squealing goes away. This happens all the time. First thing in the morning. During my lunch break 4 hours later. And on the drive home from work 4 hours later. At first I thought it was just the early morning light rust and I just needed to get through that. Then, I started to realize it happens all the time and not just in the mornings.

Like I mentioned, there is no shimmying in the steering wheel when I brake and brake performance feels the same as when I first purchased the car. It's just annoying dealing with it on a brand new car. I've been through my fair share of new cars and this is the first time I'm dealing with this starting around 3k miles. I do my own brake work on my cars and will probably take the rears apart and inspect them myself when I get the chance. Just don't feel like I should have to do that on a car with 6k miles.
 
So if you can recreate the noise as easily as you say, why not leave the car at the dealer overnight or in the morning and then go back and demonstrate the problem for them?
PS: You've probably just glazed the rear pads for some reason and a simple burnishing of same will solve the problem. It happens.
 
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Is anyone else dealing with squealing rear brakes on initial start-up?

I have a bit over 6,000 miles. There is no steering wheel shaking when I brake. I mentioned it to the dealer during my 5k service. Of course they couldn't recreate the issue. Not surprised. However, it's something I can always recreate. They said they inspected rear brakes and everything checked out. Rotors were measured and brake pads don't show any uneven wear.

On initial start-up, I will get a high pitch squealing when stopping from 20mph or under. Once I get onto the main road or highway and do a few stops from 40mph or more, the squealing goes away. This happens all the time. First thing in the morning. During my lunch break 4 hours later. And on the drive home from work 4 hours later. At first I thought it was just the early morning light rust and I just needed to get through that. Then, I started to realize it happens all the time and not just in the mornings.

Like I mentioned, there is no shimmying in the steering wheel when I brake and brake performance feels the same as when I first purchased the car. It's just annoying dealing with it on a brand new car. I've been through my fair share of new cars and this is the first time I'm dealing with this starting around 3k miles. I do my own brake work on my cars and will probably take the rears apart and inspect them myself when I get the chance. Just don't feel like I should have to do that on a car with 6k miles.

does it sound like this ? the dealer sprays some brake cleaner on it and plays dumb, after they spray brake cleaner, the sound goes away and they tell you they fixed but then of course a day later it comes back, only way I figured out to fix it was do it myself and disassemble the brake pads and add grease to the pad ears and caliper clamp on the back of the pads.




I had it too, I fixed up by cleaning out all the brake components, I removed all the brake pads and added Mintex grease on pad ears and caliper clamp locations and also checked caliper pins, your car is brand new the caliper pins should be well lubricated, if not you should use NAPA sil-glyde..... also, while you're at it, I recommend adding anti-seize between rotors and hubs, once that gets rusted, it's difficult to get the rotors off so hard you have to heat it up or whack it with a hammer, but if you have anti-seize in between the inside of the rotor and wheel hub, it comes off easily.

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I seem to have the same issue with the front-left brake. (<200mile)
I will tell mechanic to grease the brake. It happened to my other car when it was new.
My wife told me the squeaking, and I immediately told her that a simple greasing will fix that.
We will see.
 
try pressure washing the brakes thoroughly and then take it for a drive right away. that should stop the squealing.

if that does not help, take apart the brakes and clean everything.
 
Usually when the brake warms up, the squeaking goes away.
That tells me that it has something to do with gaps and friction.
I doubt power washing it can help in this case, but certainly it's easy to try for effect.
 
blackcx5, thanks for the links. Mine sounds similar to the 1st video you linked. Thanks for the suggestions. I do brakes similar to what you suggested with lubricating pad ears and caliper clamp, lubricating slide pins, and using anti-seize.

I took a video when leaving work today around 5:30pm. I was driving out of my office park which has a bunch of stops signs and speed bumps. It sounds similar to the brake pad indicator noise when pads are worn down. I doubt my pads are worn down. The noise only shows up slowing down from 20mph. As ceric mentioned, after the brakes warm up after a few stops from 40mph or more, the squealing goes away.

I started noticing the noise around 3,000 miles. Around that time, I started using the radar cruise stop and go feature daily in NJ rush hour traffic as well as the brake hold feature. I'm not sure if that's what caused the rear brake squealing to start up but is was around that time.

 
Mine has been squealing basically since new. I brought it into the dealer and they said there was a TSB on the rear brakes. Basically, all they do is bevel the brake pads. This seemed to work for about 500 miles and now the squealing is back. Same thing. Only noticeable under 20mph. Dealer is now saying its normal with these hard pads they use. It sure is annoying.
 
If you take the pads out and put a 45 all around it will go away for the life of the pads.
 
Mine has been squealing basically since new. I brought it into the dealer and they said there was a TSB on the rear brakes. Basically, all they do is bevel the brake pads. This seemed to work for about 500 miles and now the squealing is back. Same thing. Only noticeable under 20mph. Dealer is now saying its normal with these hard pads they use. It sure is annoying.
You have a 2016 CX-5 the TSB on rear brake is a lot more serious. It's related to Electrical Parking Brake which requires replacement of revised rear calipers、new rotors and pads. Unfortunately most Mazda dealers would ignore the issue, but telling you squealing and uneven wear between inner and outer pads are normal!
 
There is a metal wear indicator on the pads. Check your inside passenger side rear pad. The caliper has most likely been dragging and wore out the inside pad. This is what happens on the first generation models and when I complained to my dealer they told me my brakes were fine because the idiots only look at the outside pads. I have a local Indy who is a friend and he dismantled the rear brakes in front of me and the inside pad was worn to almost nothing. Since I get free oil changes from the dealer, that’s all I allow them to do now.
 
Just to be clear, there is no known issue with dragging brakes on the 2017 on models. That was fixed in production on the 2016 models with modified calipers and as mentioned above as a service fix for those prior to the production change.

I was 17 years testing and developing friction material with Ferodo and my advise about this cold squeal is ignore it. Mine does it a bit - especially in reverse but Im not one bit concerned about it. The friction material is slightly pourous so will absorb some moisture overnight which artificially pulls the friction up. If you run your wet fingers round a wine glass it will ring when they dry enough to raise the friction and make it resonate. Whatever you are getting is microscopic stick/slip which on each occasion gives out a ting, ting in slow motion but joined up at regular speed it is a perfect tune.

As for these fixes of various kinds, well if you simply take the pads out, give them nothing more than a coat of looking at and put them back, it will almost certainly not squeal for a few days but rest assured, it will come back. A bit of grease on the backplate and the pad abutments might cure it for a while but again, its not a long term solution. Incidentally, if you do grease them, take the pot of coppaslip that has been in your garage for years and throw it as far up the city dump as you can get it or maybe use it as a paperweight or give it as a gift to somebody you dont really like. Get some ceramic based grease like ceratec which is approved by the people who make brakes - even high melting point bearing grease will out perform copper grease with its congealing clay base.

This business of chamfering pads....... well, it often works, not because of the lead as you might expect but because you reduce the effective area and therefore increase the pressure and that can reduce resonation. Its interesting that if you reduce the pad material by half along the height (narrow way), the brake output will be unchanged as friction is independent of area. However, if you reduce it long ways you change the effective radius too and that is the lever working against the wheel - brake force is reduced.

All interesting stuff but I bet ya, if the pad is gonna squeal, you are stuck with it. You can shut off for a couple of miles or let spotty Derek at the dealership loose with your brakes? Trust me, ignore it.
 
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You'll be ok with spotty Derek if he just throws a good coat of looking at it.
Love your "Britishisms", Anchorman. So much more entertaining than most of our crude yammering!
 
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