Road noise - Tire noise on CX-9 GT 2016

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zoomsd

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2016 Mazda CX-9 GT
My vehicle is just little over 20,000 miles. All of sudden, i heard the road noise after taking it back from the dealership after oil change and brake service. Brought up the concern with the manager there and he did the test drive himself. He concluded the noise was from the tires even though it sounds like you have just the rear windows rolled down OR one of the tires has the nail on it. Before bring back to the dealership, I have a throughout check for any nails and found none.

Has anyone experienced similar problem? They are Falken Ziex CT50 A/S. They run quiet when new. OEM tires have never been the best but I don't expect they have noise issue this earlier. The noise is very uncomfortable.

Thanks.
 
Same tires I have on mine but no road noise out of the ordinary...check for tiny stones in between tread grooves/sipes that could be causing it
 
Thanks for the advice, tekbis! I did not find one when checking for nails/screws but will take a closer look again at my first chance.
 
thts really weird, perhaps they have taken of some of the protective stuff under the car ( protection of the oil crank) that usually dampens the noise that comes into the cabin.. check it up..20k miles in the tires its a lot on my book.. tir3es might also start getting hard after that mileage
 
I've been having the same road noise issue as well. I'd say mine has been going on since about 15,000 miles and I'm on about 21,000.

My vehicle is just little over 20,000 miles. All of sudden, i heard the road noise after taking it back from the dealership after oil change and brake service. Brought up the concern with the manager there and he did the test drive himself. He concluded the noise was from the tires even though it sounds like you have just the rear windows rolled down OR one of the tires has the nail on it. Before bring back to the dealership, I have a throughout check for any nails and found none.

Has anyone experienced similar problem? They are Falken Ziex CT50 A/S. They run quiet when new. OEM tires have never been the best but I don't expect they have noise issue this earlier. The noise is very uncomfortable.

Thanks.
 
i heard the road noise after taking it back from the dealership after oil change and brake service
Did they rotate the tires? Have them rotated back to the original positions and check the noise. There may be some internal changes in one tire that causes the noise, and it needs to be back in its one spot to run quietly.

What brake service? At 20k none should be needed.
 
Hi PTguy,

Yes, they rotated the tires. Can you explain more about internal changes of the tire? Does it mean certain part of it gets worn more than the others? If so, how the warranty applies here. I know it might be considered as "wear and tear" but the problem is just on one tire, not all of them.

I have been having problem with hissing/squeaking brake noise since the vehicle was a month old. I posted it on here on another topic but can no longer find it. The dealership here have been trying their best to correct the problem.
 
Tire noise is usually caused by irregular wear from misalignment made worse by low inflation pressure or lack of rotation. If the alignment has been correct (you'd see the irregular wear), inflation pressures have been kept correct, and the tires rotated on a 7500 mile (or less) schedule, then there isn't much left except some shifting of the belts in the casing of the tire. Try putting the tires back in the original spots. If the noise diminishes, just keep the tires in those spots until they're worn, then get 4 new tires, keep the inflation correct, and rotate on schedule. Some models of tires get noisier as they wear, but the sudden change you have suggests something different. The tire warranty is separate from the car warranty. Your owner's manual packet will have a tire warranty brochure. My Falkens have remained quiet now for 16,000 miles.
 
Is you CX9 the AWD version? When they rotated the tires did they do the cross pattern or just front to back and vice versa? Reason is if it's AWD they're only supposed to rotate them front to back so as not to mess up the AWD system...
 
Is you CX9 the AWD version? When they rotated the tires did they do the cross pattern or just front to back and vice versa? Reason is if it's AWD they're only supposed to rotate them front to back so as not to mess up the AWD system...

Sorry for the late reply as I have been away from the computer the last whole week.

Mine is just FWD and the last rotation was just swapping the tires front to back, not cross pattern.

Will bring the vehicle back to the dealership next week to get the tires rotated back to see if this helps.
 
Tire noise is usually caused by irregular wear from misalignment made worse by low inflation pressure or lack of rotation. If the alignment has been correct (you'd see the irregular wear), inflation pressures have been kept correct, and the tires rotated on a 7500 mile (or less) schedule, then there isn't much left except some shifting of the belts in the casing of the tire. Try putting the tires back in the original spots. If the noise diminishes, just keep the tires in those spots until they're worn, then get 4 new tires, keep the inflation correct, and rotate on schedule. Some models of tires get noisier as they wear, but the sudden change you have suggests something different. The tire warranty is separate from the car warranty. Your owner's manual packet will have a tire warranty brochure. My Falkens have remained quiet now for 16,000 miles.

Thanks for the explanation, PTguy! I always have the tires rotated at the same time of oil change, every 5000 miles.
 
Tire noise is usually caused by irregular wear from misalignment made worse by low inflation pressure or lack of rotation. If the alignment has been correct (you'd see the irregular wear), inflation pressures have been kept correct, and the tires rotated on a 7500 mile (or less) schedule, then there isn't much left except some shifting of the belts in the casing of the tire. Try putting the tires back in the original spots. If the noise diminishes, just keep the tires in those spots until they're worn, then get 4 new tires, keep the inflation correct, and rotate on schedule. Some models of tires get noisier as they wear, but the sudden change you have suggests something different. The tire warranty is separate from the car warranty. Your owner's manual packet will have a tire warranty brochure. My Falkens have remained quiet now for 16,000 miles.

This. some tires also get noisy when they become worn.
 
2016 Owner's Manual page 6-44 shows only one tire rotation pattern. Fronts go straight back to the rear. Rears cross to the fronts. No mention of AWD or FWD. I've always rotated my FWD and FWD-default AWD cars this way. I reverse it (cross the fronts to the rear) for my RWD & RWD-default 4WD vehicles. Never a problem.

In the same paragraph it says to rotate every 7,500 miles and every 5,000 miles.

Zoom, you can go 7,500 miles on oil with no problem. It it'll make you feel better, use a good brand full syn oil. You'll save money and your time. If you expect to own this car a long time, the full syn might be a smart way to go, anyway.
 
2016 Owner's Manual page 6-44 shows only one tire rotation pattern. Fronts go straight back to the rear. Rears cross to the fronts. No mention of AWD or FWD. I've always rotated my FWD and FWD-default AWD cars this way. I reverse it (cross the fronts to the rear) for my RWD & RWD-default 4WD vehicles. Never a problem.

In the same paragraph it says to rotate every 7,500 miles and every 5,000 miles.

Zoom, you can go 7,500 miles on oil with no problem. It it'll make you feel better, use a good brand full syn oil. You'll save money and your time. If you expect to own this car a long time, the full syn might be a smart way to go, anyway.

There are Dino oils which can go 7500miles while still providing protection, and there are synthetic oils out there that dont stand a chance. You need to know where to look.

As a general rule of thumb, the only oil I see that can still provide protection at or past 7500miles is motul 5w30.

However, your oil filter will not provide anywhere near enough filtration for this long, which is why you still shouldnt push your OCI this far.

Keep in mind that our engines are direct injected which makes them more susceptible to fuel shear, and dirty oil speeds the buildup of carbon buildup on your intake valves due to the DI. Just more reasons why you want clean, regular oil changes.
 
My vehicle is just little over 20,000 miles. All of sudden, i heard the road noise after taking it back from the dealership after oil change and brake service. Brought up the concern with the manager there and he did the test drive himself. He concluded the noise was from the tires even though it sounds like you have just the rear windows rolled down OR one of the tires has the nail on it. Before bring back to the dealership, I have a throughout check for any nails and found none.

Has anyone experienced similar problem? They are Falken Ziex CT50 A/S. They run quiet when new. OEM tires have never been the best but I don't expect they have noise issue this earlier. The noise is very uncomfortable.

Thanks.

Similar kind of noise started on my CX9 around 25K miles and it was more prominent at lower speeds. I have called Falken and they sent me to Pepboys for a tire inspection where I was told that its due to mis-alignment and Falken cannot help it. I then took it to the dealer who said that its because of the improper wear and tear since I failed to rotate the tires during one of the scheduled services, between which I did around 5K miles. I didn't buy that and reported it to Mazda HQ who in turn called the local dealers for a re-inspection. This time I was told that it happened partly because of the alignment and non-rotation of the tires. It would only go away when I changed the tires. Still, its difficult for me to believe that diagnosis. Waiting for these Falkens to wear out before I change the tires and observe any abnormal noise. Any further help and insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks much.
 
There are Dino oils which can go 7500miles while still providing protection, and there are synthetic oils out there that dont stand a chance. You need to know where to look.

As a general rule of thumb, the only oil I see that can still provide protection at or past 7500miles is motul 5w30.

However, your oil filter will not provide anywhere near enough filtration for this long, which is why you still shouldnt push your OCI this far.

Keep in mind that our engines are direct injected which makes them more susceptible to fuel shear, and dirty oil speeds the buildup of carbon buildup on your intake valves due to the DI. Just more reasons why you want clean, regular oil changes.
We can have this chat, or we can use oil analysis to get facts. The US$25 analysis from Blackstone Labs is one good one. In a different engine I used a syn blend oil to 10k miles with excellent lab analysis results. No need to change the oil or the filter except my convenience to do it every 10k. Motul is excellent, but just about every good brand will give very good results at 7500. Ditto for every good quality oil filter. The lab included an analysis for particulates in the oil which would have greatly risen if the filter was clogged and bypassing. Particulates were consistently low after 10k.

I've never heard of fuel shear. Do you mean fuel dilution? That's a different problem, and is it related to direct injection? In case of dilution, change the oil & filter and fix the problem causing the fuel leakage. Fuel dilution is shown on the analysis report, as is oil viscosity shearing. Oil shearing from stress is of two types, reversible and irreversible, and not related to gasoline direct injection (like it is related to the Cat & Navistar diesels which use the engine oil as the hydraulic medium to operate their fuel injectors).

Are our engines subject to carbon accumulation on the intake valves? I haven't heard that about our engines nor any modern GDI engines. The early ones certainly had that problem. Carbon on the backs of the intake valves comes from blowby from the cylinders and oil vapor from the crankcase. I haven't found any solid data relating oil drain intervals with deposition of carbon on the valves. The way to clean the carbon at home is with a gasoline direct injection (GDI) valve cleaning product sprayed into the intake manifold--follow the directions exactly. Alternately, take the car to a mechanic. Nothing one adds to the gas tank does any good for this. Periodic usage of good fuel system cleaners does remove accumulated water and clean the injector nozzles.
 
We can have this chat, or we can use oil analysis to get facts. The US$25 analysis from Blackstone Labs is one good one. In a different engine I used a syn blend oil to 10k miles with excellent lab analysis results. No need to change the oil or the filter except my convenience to do it every 10k. Motul is excellent, but just about every good brand will give very good results at 7500. Ditto for every good quality oil filter. The lab included an analysis for particulates in the oil which would have greatly risen if the filter was clogged and bypassing. Particulates were consistently low after 10k.

I've never heard of fuel shear. Do you mean fuel dilution? That's a different problem, and is it related to direct injection? In case of dilution, change the oil & filter and fix the problem causing the fuel leakage. Fuel dilution is shown on the analysis report, as is oil viscosity shearing. Oil shearing from stress is of two types, reversible and irreversible, and not related to gasoline direct injection (like it is related to the Cat & Navistar diesels which use the engine oil as the hydraulic medium to operate their fuel injectors).

Are our engines subject to carbon accumulation on the intake valves? I haven't heard that about our engines nor any modern GDI engines. The early ones certainly had that problem. Carbon on the backs of the intake valves comes from blowby from the cylinders and oil vapor from the crankcase. I haven't found any solid data relating oil drain intervals with deposition of carbon on the valves. The way to clean the carbon at home is with a gasoline direct injection (GDI) valve cleaning product sprayed into the intake manifold--follow the directions exactly. Alternately, take the car to a mechanic. Nothing one adds to the gas tank does any good for this. Periodic usage of good fuel system cleaners does remove accumulated water and clean the injector nozzles.

I have read through countless oil analysis reports, and the only thing I ever see is “results look good, extend drain interval to another couple thousand miles next time” so I will take those reports with a grain of salt.

Fuel shear and fuel dilution are essentially the same thing, yes. It’s especially common on direct injection vehicles (although regular port injected vehicles will also shear the oil) and this is perhaps the #1 reason why you should always change the oil on time in a DI motor.

Mazda solved the carbon buildup issue with a crafty EGR system, so that is not a concern. Regular oil changes will reduce the amount of buildup.
 
Locked... year old bumped thread about tire noise turning into an oil debate :s
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