Overheating Issue/Cooling Fan Issue

Nyquan3

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2001 Mazda Protege ES 2.0 Auto
So the other day I noticed going to the city like area that my a/c wasn't working. Stopped at a parking lot and seen that the A/C Compressor was clicking on and off randomly. So I was thinking that it needed freon. Bought some freon and tested the PSi with the gauge. Saw that it was in the alert zone when the compressor did kick on for 10-15 secs. So I was thinking that it was a little overcharged (I never added any, just check with the gauge). A/C had kicked on and worked for a good amount of time.

But upon leaving I saw the temperature hand rise. Also the A/C started back blowing warm air. I stopped somewhere to check if under the hood. I didnt see coolant anywhere. I let the car cool and went to burger king. Didn't see a puddle of antifreeze or anything bad. Leaving burger king, before I could entered the road the temperature hand was steady rising (never went past 3/4th the way). I also turned on the Heat to help cool the car down.

I made it home and never drove the car since the incident. Opened the hood and say a bit of pressure in the overflow tank (filled to the top). After car cooled, the coolant went back into the radiator. Next day I removed the radiator cap, had heat full blast and inclined the car for a quick air bleed. FAN(S) NEVER CAME ON AT ALL. Temps never went up above half but after like 4 mins of being half it was short bursting coolant out the radiator extremely hot. Turned the car off and waited the next day.

Today I unplugged the coolant sensor by the thermostat and left the Rad Cap off. Only the Condensor fan came on at this time at all times. Temp hand wasn't working either. Left the car running for awhile the plugged it back in to see it was half way. I unplugged it and left the condensor fan run and I'll say like more than 20mins the car never gushed out coolant or back build pressure. Test drove the car up the road with the sensor unplugged and car ran fine besides low idle from the sensor unplug.

Relay clicks, and Fuse are good. Am I missing something or is it just the coolant fan all along that was causing this?
 
It may be that the coolant sensor switch is bad. Your fan obviously is not bad.
I'm not sure if the AC would be affected but I think a good place to start is with replacing that switch.
 
I just did a test and I can confirm that the relay was bad. I had to tap it for it to stay on with coolant sensor unplugged. I switched it with the ac relay. The cooling fan worked but not the compressor fan unless I gave it a love tap. So obviously now I have to get a new relay. Would a bad relay cause the cause a closed circuit for the fan not to come on automactically?
 
I had to keep love tapping the AC Relay to get the Cooling Fan to come on automatically for the temp. AC blows out cold now to since now. I ordered a new Relay and see what happens. (PS I switched the relays around for the mean time but not driving until new shipment comes)
 
Let us know if that solves the problem.
Thanks.

Sadly no. I switched the cooling fan relay with the ac relay. Car runs fine until at a certain point bubbles start getting into the overflow tank. Cooling fan still came on but it didnt help the situation. Temp went up a bit also at the time
 
You can have your coolant tested for combustion gasses, which would indicate a failed head gasket. Don't wait too long.
 
You can have your coolant tested for combustion gasses, which would indicate a failed head gasket. Don't wait too long.

Surprisingly, The Thermostat was stuck closed. To test I fixed up some boiling hot water and placed it in there. It did not open up on the highest temp I had my stove on. After that, Car ran/drove great without a thermostat and plain water for 35 miles.

Getting a new thermostat (Stuck Closed), overflow tank (has a hole), radiator cap (has cracks in seal), relay (have to tap to work), and antifreeze next week. Problem should be fixed then :)
 
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