Do You Love Your Mazda? Ditch That 0W-20 Oil!!!

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^^That's what I make of it..now if you live in Southern US and don't typically see freezing temps I'm sure you're fine to give 5W30 a go (I'd check w/Mazda first if you're still under warranty just to be safe.) For me that is certainly not the case and yeah I guess I could switch back and forth seasonally given the amount of driving I do- I just don't see enough evidence/reason to bother- she's running great- purring like a kitten here too 7:)

I live in Toronto and simply use 5w30. I see no reason to switch back and forth.

If you dont drive aggressively, you dont necessarily need to switch to 5w30, but that being said its certainly not going to hurt over the long run..
 
Because the CAFE (corporate average fuel efficiency) requirements, which squeeze .2 MPG out of each vehicle to meet corporate average standards are for North American vehicles only.

Its partially also because Mexico has a hotter climate, and the thicker oil helps but before people start using this as the basis for their argument, keep in mind that cold places like Russian, which is far colder then most of Canada still uses 5w30, because its NOT any more stressful on your engine during cold starts. Thats simply a load of s***.

If you care about your car and want it to last long, you should ONLY be using 5w30.

Outside of North America, all of the owners manuals that I looked at recommend either 0W-20 or 5W-30, with the caveat that 5W-30 shouldn't be used if you encounter temps below -20.
 
Because the CAFE (corporate average fuel efficiency) requirements, which squeeze .2 MPG out of each vehicle to meet corporate average standards are for North American vehicles only.

It’s partially also because Mexico has a hotter climate, and the thicker oil helps but before people start using this as the basis for their argument, keep in mind that cold places like Russian, which is far colder then most of Canada still uses 5w30, because it’s NOT any more stressful on your engine during cold starts. That’s simply a load of s***.

If you care about your car and want it to last long, you should ONLY be using 5w30
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Funny how the engineers who designed it disagree with you.

A lot of this simply has to do with market availability of said oil. 0W30 is a synthetic oil and more expensive, therefore harder to find in many places of the world.
 
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Other than viscosity, 0w20 is either full synthetic or a blending.
There is no dyno oil that is 0w20.
Being synthetic, this oil comes with all the benefits associated with synthetic oil, which includes longer change interval, more tolerance to heat, and maintaining a thin film on the cylinder to protect next cold start.... etc.
Yes, I agree. Mazda uses it just for MPG.
 
Outside of North America, all of the owners manuals that I looked at recommend either 0W-20 or 5W-30, with the caveat that 5W-30 shouldn't be used if you encounter temps below -20.

Correct, and anything -10 or more youre best off with 5w30.

Funny how the engineers who designed it disagree with you.
A lot of this simply has to do with market availability of said oil. 0W30 is a synthetic oil and more expensive, therefore harder to find in many places of the world.

You mean youre the only one that disagrees with me? so youve personally spoken with the engineers and this is what they told you? Can you explain to me why 0w20 has been recommended ONLY in North America then?

Other than viscosity, 0w20 is either full synthetic or a blending.
There is no dyno oil that is 0w20.
Being synthetic, this oil comes with all the benefits associated with synthetic oil, which includes longer change interval, more tolerance to heat, and maintaining a thin film on the cylinder to protect next cold start.... etc.
Yes, I agree. Mazda uses it just for MPG.

Just about everyone brand these days uses it for MPG, not just mazda. If it wasnt for the strict fuel economy regulations we would still be using 5w30 as we speak.

There are synthetic oils out there which are actually s*** quality and provide far less engine protection then needed.

I would much rather choose a Dino oil over any 0w20 and especially over Mobil 1 oil which is watered down and terrible quality.
 
Correct, and anything -10 or more you’re best off with 5w30. Am I?


I would much rather choose a Dino oil over any 0w20 and especially over Mobil 1 oil which is watered down and terrible quality.
^^Really, I def wouldn't... Watered down mobil 1? Source on that please!
 
Correct, and anything -10 or more you’re best off with 5w30.



You mean you’re the only one that disagrees with me? so you’ve personally spoken with the engineers and this is what they told you? Can you explain to me why 0w20 has been recommended ONLY in North America then?

The manual is the engineering spec. Your assertion that the oil causes harm is bogus and inflammatory, like many of your other posts.
 
I would much rather choose a Dino oil over any 0w20 and especially over Mobil 1 oil which is watered down and terrible quality.

LOL. I can't tell if you're a weird troll or what. Welcome to ignore.
 
Not an expert on any of this but this guy has some interesting points: https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/

"Thicker oils DO NOT automatically provide better wear protection than thinner oils, as some people mistakenly believe. Extensive dynamic wear testing under load of approximately 200 motor oils, has shown that the base oil and its additive package as a whole, with the primary emphasis on the additive package, which is what contains the extreme pressure anti-wear components, is what determines an oils wear protection capability, NOT its viscosity. In fact, the test data has shown that 5W20 oils can provide INCREDIBLE wear protection with over 120,000 psi load carrying capability/film strength/shear resistance, while 15W50 oils can sometimes only provide UNDESIRABLE wear protection with less than 60,000 psi. So, DO NOT use thicker oil under the assumption that it can provide better wear protection for our engines, because that is simply NOT TRUE.

BOTTOM LINE: Thinner oils are better for most engine lubrication needs.

But, the specific viscosity selected for any given engine, is very important. Engine build differences and engine wear differences, result in different clearances. And depending on how robust an oiling system is, different clearances can require different motor oil viscosities for engines to generate acceptable oil pressure. The looser the clearances, the faster a given motor oil viscosity will bleed off through those clearances. Or the thinner the viscosity, the faster the oil will bleed off through given clearances. So, we need sufficient oil pressure to ensure that an adequate oil supply is always present at critical components, to protect an engine from wear and/or damage."


But I think a quality 5W30 would also be fine or Mazda wouldn't recommend it in Mexico. I suspect that it has more to do with lack of availability of 0W20 motor oil in Mexico. It could be the heat, but Texas, New Mexico and Arizona get every bit as hot as Mexico. Probably other parts of the US as well. It would be interesting to see what Australia recommends.

Oh, he also addresses engine noise:

In addition to that, the viscosity chosen may also make a difference in mechanical engine noise. Sometimes, an engine might have a little mechanical tick or rattle that isnt really a problem, other than bothering the owner, which can be eliminated by choosing the next thicker viscosity, than oil pressure requirements alone, may have required. So, viscosity choices can give us options to meet the needs of any given engine.
 
Correct, and anything -10 or more you’re best off with 5w30.



You mean you’re the only one that disagrees with me? so you’ve personally spoken with the engineers and this is what they told you? Can you explain to me why 0w20 has been recommended ONLY in North America then?



Just about everyone brand these days uses it for MPG, not just mazda. If it wasn’t for the strict fuel economy regulations we would still be using 5w30 as we speak.

There are “synthetic” oils out there which are actually s*** quality and provide far less engine protection then needed.

I would much rather choose a Dino oil over any 0w20 and especially over Mobil 1 oil which is watered down and terrible quality.

Please support your libel against Mobil 1 0-20 with data.
 
Not an expert on any of this but this guy has some interesting points: https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/

"Thicker oils DO NOT automatically provide better wear protection than thinner oils, as some people mistakenly believe. Extensive dynamic wear testing under load of approximately 200 motor oils, has shown that the base oil and its additive package as a whole, with the primary emphasis on the additive package, which is what contains the extreme pressure anti-wear components, is what determines an oils wear protection capability, NOT its viscosity. In fact, the test data has shown that 5W20 oils can provide INCREDIBLE wear protection with over 120,000 psi load carrying capability/film strength/shear resistance, while 15W50 oils can sometimes only provide UNDESIRABLE wear protection with less than 60,000 psi. So, DO NOT use thicker oil under the assumption that it can provide better wear protection for our engines, because that is simply NOT TRUE.

BOTTOM LINE: Thinner oils are better for most engine lubrication needs.

But, the specific viscosity selected for any given engine, is very important. Engine build differences and engine wear differences, result in different clearances. And depending on how robust an oiling system is, different clearances can require different motor oil viscosities for engines to generate acceptable oil pressure. The looser the clearances, the faster a given motor oil viscosity will bleed off through those clearances. Or the thinner the viscosity, the faster the oil will bleed off through given clearances. So, we need sufficient oil pressure to ensure that an adequate oil supply is always present at critical components, to protect an engine from wear and/or damage."


But I think a quality 5W30 would also be fine or Mazda wouldn't recommend it in Mexico. I suspect that it has more to do with lack of availability of 0W20 motor oil in Mexico. It could be the heat, but Texas, New Mexico and Arizona get every bit as hot as Mexico. Probably other parts of the US as well. It would be interesting to see what Australia recommends.

Oh, he also addresses engine noise:

In addition to that, the viscosity chosen may also make a difference in mechanical engine noise. Sometimes, an engine might have a little mechanical tick or rattle that isnt really a problem, other than bothering the owner, which can be eliminated by choosing the next thicker viscosity, than oil pressure requirements alone, may have required. So, viscosity choices can give us options to meet the needs of any given engine.

What people need to understand that 5w30 isnt a thick oil at all. 10w40, 10w60 is. We have been using 5w30 and 10W30 for a while now, I dont understand why so many are comfortable with making the switch to a thin oil which does not provide the long term bearing protection you need in warm weather.

Note how at the beggining of his blog, he mentioned that there are good and bad synthetic oils just like there are good and bad Dino oils, meaning that a good quality Dino oil would be better then poor quality synthetics.

Now the mention to bearing clearances, the Mazda skyactiv engine block is not a clean sheet engine design. It is derived from the Mazda L engine which was specced for 5w30 and it has been reported that 5w40 is fine for the engine, just like many others designed from this era which means that the bearing clearances are not picky about thicker oil. I can promise you that Mazda did not alter the bearing clearances of the Mazda skyactiv Motor so the bearing clearance argument is nonsense.

Please support your libel against Mobil 1 0-20 with data.

Its all over the internet on various forums, look up Mobil 1 spun rod bearings and reviews, its an inferior oil
 
What people need to understand that 5w30 isn’t a thick oil at all. 10w40, 10w60 is. We have been using 5w30 and 10W30 for a while now, I don’t understand why so many are comfortable with making the switch to a thin oil which does not provide the long term bearing protection you need in warm weather.

Note how at the beggining of his blog, he mentioned that there are good and bad synthetic oils just like there are good and bad Dino oils, meaning that a good quality Dino oil would be better then poor quality synthetics.

Now the mention to bearing clearances, the Mazda skyactiv engine block is not a clean sheet engine design. It is derived from the Mazda L engine which was specced for 5w30 and it has been reported that 5w40 is fine for the engine, just like many others designed from this era which means that the bearing clearances are not picky about thicker oil. I can promise you that Mazda did not alter the bearing clearances of the Mazda skyactiv Motor so the bearing clearance argument is nonsense.



It’s all over the internet on various forums, look up Mobil 1 spun rod bearings and reviews, it’s an inferior oil



full-50894-10420-bridgette_170716_redacted.png

A cera-tec addative was used for this UOA, but you can see the shearing you speak of, and the "watering down" you allege, did not occur, nor is the flash-temp below spec, indicating fuel dilution from this SkyActiv motor wasn't an issue...

More 0-20 Mobil 1 performance, over 15K mile intervals...(no 3rd party adds) Blackstone told him to try 17K mile intervals....
527913



Please, feel free to make your point using data. I'll wait.
 
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I live in Toronto and simply use 5w30. I see no reason to switch back and forth.

If you don’t drive aggressively, you don’t necessarily need to switch to 5w30, but that being said it’s certainly not going to hurt over the long run..

Yeah not buyin what you're sellin bro and i honestly feel you're doing more harm than good particularly on cold starts in Toronto winters but do what makes you feel good, ill stick with the exact thing it says on my oil cap 0w20, period..castrol, mobil, valvoline, penzoil of proper spec sure as s*** ain't gonna hurt nothing and the ones who say they will are trying to sell s***. Dropping the mic on this topic because I think its a steaming load of crap. Beating the absolute piss out of it on a regular in the 120 degree arizona desert I might feel otherwise..might
 
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But even if you're in the 120 degree heat of summer in the Arizona desert, your engine oil is still operating at approximately the same temp as it would in the 0 degree air of winter in Minnesota. It's just starting out at a higher temp and warming faster, which is actually easier on the engine, not harder.

As far as I'm concerned, Mazda has made it clear enough through their various recommendations worldwide that either 0W-20 or 5W-30 is acceptable, except in extreme cold temperatures where you need to stick with 0W-20. A reasonable person might infer that 5W-20 is also OK, outside of the extreme cold, and 5W-20 was the recommended oil for the 2.3L. 0W-30 is probably OK as well.

When it comes to motor oil, the amount of folklore being passed around has always far exceeded the amount of data. I think when somebody claims that such-n-such oil is harmful to your engine, the burden of proof is on them, especially when it's the manufacturer's recommended oil.

I'm not sure what to make of the Mobil 1 spun bearings thing. There are a lot of people who have suffered spun bearings who also happened to be using Mobil 1 oil. But then again, a lot of people who tune and race their cars use Mobil 1. For many years it was considered one of the best oils on the market, and was often the best oil you could find at your local auto parts store, so a lot of people used it. Correlation does not equal causation. And in this case, it's more likely that these people damaged their engines because they tuned them beyond the ignition control system's ability to control knock, not because they used the wrong oil.
 
But even if you're in the 120 degree heat of summer in the Arizona desert, your engine oil is still operating at approximately the same temp as it would in the 0 degree air of winter in Minnesota. It's just starting out at a higher temp and warming faster, which is actually easier on the engine, not harder.

As far as I'm concerned, Mazda has made it clear enough through their various recommendations worldwide that either 0W-20 or 5W-30 is acceptable, except in extreme cold temperatures where you need to stick with 0W-20. A reasonable person might infer that 5W-20 is also OK, outside of the extreme cold, and 5W-20 was the recommended oil for the 2.3L. 0W-30 is probably OK as well.

When it comes to motor oil, the amount of folklore being passed around has always far exceeded the amount of data. I think when somebody claims that such-n-such oil is harmful to your engine, the burden of proof is on them, especially when it's the manufacturer's recommended oil.

I'm not sure what to make of the Mobil 1 spun bearings thing. There are a lot of people who have suffered spun bearings who also happened to be using Mobil 1 oil. But then again, a lot of people who tune and race their cars use Mobil 1. For many years it was considered one of the best oils on the market, and was often the best oil you could find at your local auto parts store, so a lot of people used it. Correlation does not equal causation. And in this case, it's more likely that these people damaged their engines because they tuned them beyond the ignition control system's ability to control knock, not because they used the wrong oil.

I bet people who spin bearings also drink water, or have, at some point in their lives. (scratch)
 
Yeah not buyin what you're sellin bro and i honestly feel you're doing more harm than good particularly on cold starts in Toronto winters but do what makes you feel good, ill stick with the exact thing it says on my oil cap 0w20, period..castrol, mobil, valvoline, penzoil of proper spec sure as s*** ain't gonna hurt nothing and the ones who say they will are trying to sell s***. Dropping the mic on this topic because I think its a steaming load of crap. Beating the absolute piss out of it on a regular in the 120 degree arizona desert I might feel otherwise..might

But even if you're in the 120 degree heat of summer in the Arizona desert, your engine oil is still operating at approximately the same temp as it would in the 0 degree air of winter in Minnesota. It's just starting out at a higher temp and warming faster, which is actually easier on the engine, not harder.

.

As a person who literally beats the piss out off my Mazda6's skyactiv engine this summer as the temps reached 120 degree, also in stop and go traffic.........The mentioned oils hold up through 6k miles but would really hesitate to wait until 8K+ miles to change. Keep in mind the coolant system is being stressed as well.
 
As a person who literally beats the piss out off my Mazda6's skyactiv engine this summer as the temps reached 120 degree, also in stop and go traffic.........The mentioned oils hold up through 6k miles but would really hesitate to wait until 8K+ miles to change. Keep in mind the coolant system is being stressed as well.

The only oils that will hold up to abuse like that is liqui moly, shell/ shell Rotella, Motul, AMS oil, redline, Pennzoil Platinum and thats basically it. Many other oils will begin to shear after 6k and Im talking about 5w30, 5w40 oils here let alone 0w...
 
The only oils that will hold up to abuse like that is liqui moly, shell/ shell Rotella, Motul, AMS oil, redline, Pennzoil Platinum and that’s basically it. Many other oils will begin to shear after 6k and I’m talking about 5w30, 5w40 oils here let alone 0w...

I use Pennzoil Platinum exclusively right now. Really want to get a hold of some Amsoil signature series though for a try. I used liqui moly on my BMW...essentially only German fluids for the Bimmer.
 
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