Do You Love Your Mazda? Ditch That 0W-20 Oil!!!
- Thread starter GJ-Molestor
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Why does the US seem to complicate everything by having different standards?
Even your Gallon isn't a UK gallon weird.
Even your Gallon isn't a UK gallon weird.
This is something I've never understood why Mazda rev the engine high on a cold engine during start up, although it will only do it with in certain parameters, I was brought up to never rev a cold engine, to allow oil circulation.
Mazda say it for the cat to warm up quickly.
Mazda say it for the cat to warm up quickly.
5W-30 is fine too, as long as you don't experience cold winters:
But I don't see the advantage. The higher the viscosity, the greater the resistance to oil flow. Generally speaking, using higher viscosity oil decreases oil flow rate and increases oil pumping losses, and so provides less oil pressure to the points of lubrication. That's particularly a concern when the engine is started cold, which is when the most engine wear occurs. Plain bearings, such as the ones that support your crankshaft and camshaft, depend on oil pressure and flow rate to maintain film thickness. Another potential downside of higher viscosity oil is that it increases friction between lubricated surfaces that are moving past each other, e.g. a crankshaft spinning in a plain bearing. That increases shearing forces within the oil, which breaks down the oil faster.
GJ-Molestor
Banned
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- 2011 BMW 528i, 2015 Mazda 6, 1995 Nissan Maxima Manual
It could just be that the engine is burning some oil so the level wont change.
So fuel dilution happens with gasoline engines as well?
Its to warm up the cat like you said.
Because of the 4-2-1 exhaust header design, the cat is not placed in the header which helps performance but affects emissions on cold starts. Ive never seen a vehicle that doesnt rev slightly high on cold starts to warm up the cat. You can code this feature out particularly if youre doing an ECU tune for a cat delete.
When you start the car in the mornings, just drive off right away. This will warm up the car quicker rather then just idling. The car runs rich in the mornings on cold starts which isnt healthy.
GJ-Molestor
Banned
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- 2011 BMW 528i, 2015 Mazda 6, 1995 Nissan Maxima Manual
If you live in steady -20c climate then yes. If you consume oil, why would you not use 5w30 so you dont need to top up as often?
If the oil level does not raise, it could just mean that you are burn some oil which is hiding the fact that you are in fact getting fuel shear. But I do agree that 5w30 is more resistant to fuel shear.
I think thats the nature with any DI motor, not just mazdas. It doesnt seem like that many people experience raising oil levels because of oil consumption
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- RDX Aspec Adv.
I hope GJ never hears a cold-cranked BMW M3 from yester-year with the 4.4L V8. He'd probably pour straight 90wt gear oil in it!
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- RDX Aspec Adv.
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- CX5
I've read somewhere that note than 40 minutes drive "cures" the problem because it would generate enough heat to burn the particulate.
GJ-Molestor
Banned
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- 2011 BMW 528i, 2015 Mazda 6, 1995 Nissan Maxima Manual
Thats a 4L v8 - completely unrelated to the 4.4L.
That engine is specced for 10w60 except the rod bearing design was flawed from the factory so I would use 10w50 in the summer months. In the winter (if I even drive such A car in the winter) I would use 5w40 shell rotella, which is very easy on the engine during cold starts yet still provides engine protection.
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- RDX Aspec Adv.
Right you are, I was thinking of the M3 GT-S.
Interesting about the oil being so heavy...still not quiet.
GJ-Molestor
Banned
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- 2011 BMW 528i, 2015 Mazda 6, 1995 Nissan Maxima Manual
it's a 8400RPM high revving machine, it hates low RPM.
I just took a 7,500 mile trip across part of the US. It included lots of hot weather, freeway driving. 75 to 80 MPH, 90 degree driving across Missouri, Kansas, Colorado and Wyoming.. I did not see any visible difference on the dipstick after I got home. I was running 0-W20 Mazda oil. Regarding the engine running "smoother" with a different kind of oil, I assume you mean what you are hearing, rather than what you are feeling. After 50 years of driving I've never experienced an engine suddenly running smoother after an oil change. Just my $.02.
Yes I put it straight into rev after it starts, or drive if I'm not in the garage.
GJ-Molestor
Banned
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- 2011 BMW 528i, 2015 Mazda 6, 1995 Nissan Maxima Manual
No, youre not going to notice any difference switching from one bad oil to another.
Switching from 0w20 to 5w30 (a good quality 5w30) there absolutely was a noticeable difference in smoothness. The engine revved much, much smoother then before. Big difference.
^^That's what I make of it..now if you live in Southern US and don't typically see freezing temps I'm sure you're fine to give 5W30 a go (I'd check w/Mazda first if you're still under warranty just to be safe.) For me that is certainly not the case and yeah I guess I could switch back and forth seasonally given the amount of driving I do- I just don't see enough evidence/reason to bother- she's running great- purring like a kitten here too 7
GJ-Molestor
Banned
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- 2011 BMW 528i, 2015 Mazda 6, 1995 Nissan Maxima Manual
Because the CAFE (corporate average fuel efficiency) requirements, which squeeze .2 MPG out of each vehicle to meet corporate average standards are for North American vehicles only.
Its partially also because Mexico has a hotter climate, and the thicker oil helps but before people start using this as the basis for their argument, keep in mind that cold places like Russian, which is far colder then most of Canada still uses 5w30, because its NOT any more stressful on your engine during cold starts. Thats simply a load of s***.
If you care about your car and want it to last long, you should ONLY be using 5w30.
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