Start-up hesitation

RALOCC

Member
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Mazdaspeed Protege
Hey guys, new to the forums and just bought a 2003 MSP. Car has issues, throwing p0300, p0302, p2009, p0090, p0660. I've solved p0300, p0302 by replacing spark plugs and wires. Through my hours of research on this site learned about the dreaded VICS and VTCS crap and bought the solenoids for PRC, VICS and VTCS in hopes to solve the other codes.

Here's the real question I have for ya, after replacing some fuses (20 and 30 amp fuses in 10 amp slots, a 30 amp that was missing it's cap and had a visibly noticeable score mark on the copper and the 60 amp ignition fuse that looked like it had blown and the guy took the cap off and squeezed the metal back together to complete the circuit) I now have to wait for my car to build a charge when I put the key to the on position. Didn't have this problem before replacing the fuses, the battery is obviously not the right one, too big for the car, 800 cranking 1000 cold cranking, and barely fits in the battery bay. What happens is when I put the key in and go to start it nothing happens, the red light on the dash slowly starts to light up and after about 1-2 minutes the odometer and rest of the gauge cluster comes up, try to start it and it barely cranks over like a low battery, wait another minute starts just fine. The very first time it happened, I could hear a click, like the starter was might have been having issues. Any ideas?

Thanks

PS no problems starting after it's gone through this process
 
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What part of Austin are you in?

The battery shouldn't negatively affect the charging system, even if it is more powerful than stock. I can't say I have ever heard of this on any car. Have the battery terminal cables been replaced? I would suggest cleaning/tightening them or replacing them if they are in bad shape.

What plugs did you use? Did you gap them to .028"?
 
Plugs are NGK Iridium and the gaps are good, when car starts it runs like a car with bad solenoids lol. Anyway, I live off Parmer and 45.
 
Ok, replaced the solenoids today and did a seafoam intake clean out and no more CEL. As far as the weird slow power build up to turn my car over, still no clue. Battery terminals are clean and tight. The other thing I noticed is when driving, power is hesitant, once it hits 5.5 RPM's it screams but below that it's not. Also, once I hit 85 in 4th it just stops ... won't go any faster, like it's hitting a limiter or something.
 
Cool, I live in South Austin but work near Burnet/183 at Cobb Tuning.

The stock tune on these cars is insanely rich, they will go past 85 but they have very inconsistent power delivery.

There is definitely something strange going on. May want to check out the grounds and make sure the battery wires aren't corroded inside.

Have you gone to the wells branch meet on Saturday nights? A few MSP guys meet there sometimes.
 
Cool, I live in South Austin but work near Burnet/183 at Cobb Tuning.

The stock tune on these cars is insanely rich, they will go past 85 but they have very inconsistent power delivery.

There is definitely something strange going on. May want to check out the grounds and make sure the battery wires aren't corroded inside.

Have you gone to the wells branch meet on Saturday nights? A few MSP guys meet there sometimes.

I haven't, don't know that I'd be able to, wife works Saturday nights and I got kid duty. I may just replace the wires altogether, might get a new wire harness too, mine is pretty dried out and brittle. Are the turbo's on these cars really quiet? I never hear it spool or blow-off. I had a 2001 Jetta 1.8T and I always heard it, even when it was stock.
 
Do you have a boost gauge on the car? The WGA may be bad and it may not be building boost.
 
No boost gauge, future addition for sure. Pretty sure I can hear it but it's sounds like a rush of air more then a whine? All I know is, it feels like it wants to go when I open her up but I get inconsistent power, like it's not mixing air/fuel right. Once it hits 5+ RPM's it hauls for that short burst.

I need to meet up with someone who knows these cars well at some point and can listen to the engine, doesn't sound right at idle and feels rough.


P.S. I figured out the start-up issue, the + cables aren't connected to the contact post but to the bolt that tightens it down which was giving it a bad connection.
 
The stock tune is pretty bad on the MSP, even with a piggyback installed the AFRs in boost will be in the 10s which is too rich to make good power.
 
Sounds like I got my work cut out for me. Got that P0300 code again, multiple misfires, I already changed the plugs and wires, might pull the plugs and double check gaps I might have missed one. I'm thinking coils though.
 
Usually it's the coil packs that fail. What is the part number of the plugs you used? Correct gap? The parts store computers list the incorrect plugs and gap for the MSP.

Dirty EGR can cause misfires but I would bet money it's a coil pack.
 
NGK iridium whatever AutoZone came up with, I'm going to double check the gaps this evening. I'm pretty sure it's the coils packs too.
 
if your car makes a clicking sound when you try and start it, thats your start. have a friend tap your starter (with some force) using some sort of stick and then try to start the car while he continues to tap the starter. that should make the car start right up
 
So far it's started right up no problem since I changed out the battery terminal. New problem now is my ABS light comes on intermittently.
 
That could be the ABS wheel speed sensor but check the fluid first.
There are a few forum posts on how to check for the codes.
 
Ok, so I've been busy and finally was able to get to replacing parts on the car, with what I could spend my money on anyways. New brake res cap, the old one was busted. Could have been why the ABS light was coming on and off? New Mazda gas cap. New PCM with bushing. New alt belt. Newest problem I'm having now ... the forced induction. The more I dig into this engine the more I realize this is going to be an ongoing "well that's not right" problem after problem. Missing bolts, missing nuts, wires that aren't connected to anything and no idea if they are supposed to.... Anyway, back to the forced induction, the pipe going from the TB to the cooler has been seriously jacked up, the upper flex portion has been sealed with what looks like exhaust gasket sealer as well as where it connects to the cooler itself was used to seal the pipe together. I only found out about this because my car died on the freeway the other day and I discovered it was no longer together. I've got it holding together now but who knows for how long. My question is this, can the air leaking out of those pipes cause misfire codes? I have new ignition coils to install but I don't want to install them until I know for sure.
 
A boost leak will not cause a misfire, but the car will run even more rich than it already does and will not be able to run at full boost, or at all since the leaks are post-MAF. What are your plans for the car? I have a stock cold pipe from my MSP, but if you are planning to upgrade to a front mount intercooler (highly recommended in Texas) then you can just get a piping kit and not worry about the stock setup.

A coworker said he saw a Titanium MSP at the Domain last week, and a yellow one Thursday on Burnet Rd. I am guessing it could have been you?
 
I have a black MSP that looks like it's seen better days and I was at the domain doing some work. Honestly I don't know what I'm going to do with the car. I primarily bought it because it was cheap and it ran, needed a second car. I'd love to get the car back to new condition, but it'll be a slow process until I get some raises (deadhorse
 
So my engine threw a rod bearing and now there is metal everywhere ... I have pulled the engine out and have it completely taken apart. I've come to the decision that I'm just going to replace it with a used longblock. I've been looking at JDM engines, is there anything I should know before I make my purchase?
 
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