2017 cx-5 sport mode

P

Panda_415

:
2017 Mazda CX-5 Sport AWD SnowFlake White Pearl
I've personally NOT used sport mode Yet ...
considering the car is in break in period and haven't even
pass the 1,000 mile mark yet ...

Anyone here drive with "SPORT MODE" on
all the time ???
If so ... does it hurt fuel economy much ?
because If I loose 1-2 mpg but gain more FUN
in my daily commute then its worth the $ IMO.

(drive)
 
I use it when I need to punch it. Turning left and entering a high speed road, Merging or passing etc. I don't leave it on because the engine noise at 4k rpms is pretty loud. Rather just coast and save the gas.
 
Panda_415 said:
I've personally NOT used sport mode Yet ...
considering the car is in break in period and haven't even
pass the 1,000 mile mark yet ...

Anyone here drive with "SPORT MODE" on
all the time ???
If so ... does it hurt fuel economy much ?
because If I loose 1-2 mpg but gain more FUN
in my daily commute then its worth the $ IMO.

(drive)
Click to expand...

Sport mode holds gears longer and from memory doesn't shift into 5th or 6th thus affecting fuel economy.
 
Panda_415 said:
I've personally NOT used sport mode Yet ...
considering the car is in break in period and haven't even
pass the 1,000 mile mark yet ...

Anyone here drive with "SPORT MODE" on
all the time ???
If so ... does it hurt fuel economy much ?
because If I loose 1-2 mpg but gain more FUN
in my daily commute then its worth the $ IMO.

(drive)
Click to expand...

Just wanted to let you know that the break in period is 600 miles...

"Though no break in is required for new Mazda models, here are a few tips you can follow in the first 600 miles (1,000 km) to make sure you get the most out of your Mazda's fuel economy, engine and longevity.
1.Avoid maintaining any constant speed for an extended period of time whenever possible.
2.Avoid high engine rpm for extended periods of time.
3.Refrain from racing the engine.
4.Brake and stop the vehicle slowly to avoid hard stops.
5.Dont start the car with the engine at full throttle.
6.Dont tow a trailer until after this period (even if you have a vehicle with towing capabilities).
"
 
I used sport mode after the first few days of getting the car, didn't wait for break in. I only use it occasionally and I call it the gas guzzling mode. The throttle response on this car is really good for the most part so I hardly have to use sooty mode. I only use it sometimes when getting into the freeway especially when I have a few passengers in the car. Thanks mode might come in handy for road trips when going up hills and stuff.
 
Panda_415 said:
I've personally NOT used sport mode Yet ...
considering the car is in break in period and haven't even
pass the 1,000 mile mark yet ...

Anyone here drive with "SPORT MODE" on
all the time ???
If so ... does it hurt fuel economy much ?
because If I loose 1-2 mpg but gain more FUN
in my daily commute then its worth the $ IMO.

(drive)
Click to expand...
I leave it on for the whole drive only when I'm driving in manual mode. Otherwise, like others have stated, it is best to use it only when you need it, like merging into the highway or passing. If you leave sport mode on in Drive mode, depending on the speed limit on the road you are driving, you will most likely end up in 3rd or 4th gear the whole time.
 
Aznbagel said:
I use it when I need to punch it. Turning left and entering a high speed road, Merging or passing etc. I don't leave it on because the engine noise at 4k rpms is pretty loud. Rather just coast and save the gas.
Click to expand...

Just hit 900 miles on my 2016.5 Sport...... I used the sport mode a couple of days ago and thought there was something wrong with it.. after it switched to like the 3rd or 4th gear it didn't change to the next gear and the engine started getting really loud starting at 3k rpms.... after reading a few posts in here it seems this is normal like you stated... seems like sport mode is to be used when your towing something or you are in hilly mountains.... Others have stated that using sport mode along with the manual option is the best use... i will have to try that next time.
 
Panda_415 said:
I've personally NOT used sport mode Yet ...
considering the car is in break in period and haven't even
pass the 1,000 mile mark yet ...

Anyone here drive with "SPORT MODE" on
all the time ???
If so ... does it hurt fuel economy much ?
because If I loose 1-2 mpg but gain more FUN
in my daily commute then its worth the $ IMO.

(drive)
Click to expand...

if you have some fun roads during your daily commute where you like to drive spiritedly, use it. but wait for your car to full break in first.

mazdadude said:
Just wanted to let you know that the break in period is 600 miles...

"Though no break in is required for new Mazda models, here are a few tips you can follow in the first 600 miles (1,000 km) to make sure you get the most out of your Mazda's fuel economy, engine and longevity.
1.Avoid maintaining any constant speed for an extended period of time whenever possible.
2.Avoid high engine rpm for extended periods of time.
3.Refrain from racing the engine.
4.Brake and stop the vehicle slowly to avoid hard stops.
5.Don’t start the car with the engine at full throttle.
6.Don’t tow a trailer until after this period (even if you have a vehicle with towing capabilities).
"
Click to expand...

yea, you can believe your car takes 600 miles to break in if you want to. I did a couple full throttle pulls at the 1800mile mark, the car now burns a little bit of oil.

the brakes, tires etc take about 500 miles to break in, but the engine takes 3000 miles to fully break in and the transmission even longer. just refrain from going past 3000RPM during this period of 3000 miles and you're golden.

this isnt what is stated in the manual, but I have spoken to mechanics and many of them said that it takes an engine 3000 miles to break in. it's always best to be safe then sorry, especially when I tested this theory myself and failed at 1800 miles...
 
GJ-Molestor said:
if you have some fun roads during your daily commute where you like to drive spiritedly, use it. but wait for your car to full break in first.



yea, you can believe your car takes 600 miles to break in if you want to. I did a couple full throttle pulls at the 1800mile mark, the car now burns a little bit of oil.

the brakes, tires etc take about 500 miles to break in, but the engine takes 3000 miles to fully break in and the transmission even longer. just refrain from going past 3000RPM during this period of 3000 miles and you're golden.

this isnt what is stated in the manual, but I have spoken to mechanics and many of them said that it takes an engine 3000 miles to break in. it's always best to be safe then sorry, especially when I tested this theory myself and failed at 1800 miles...
Click to expand...

molestor-- This is from the manual, not just "what I believe." If you are speaking only to mechanics, you might want to try talking to the engineers also. (wedge)
 
The only "break-in" advice I follow from the manual is to vary the RPM while driving and to not race the engine. I'm in the camp of, drive it the way it is going to be driven from the get go. If something is going to fail, it will fail right away and it will fail while you still have your bumper to bumper warranty. Babying the car during its "break-in" period will only benefit the manufacturer.

I don't see using "sport mode" breaking stuff if used during "break-in". Just be sure vary the RPM when driving.
 
finch204 said:
The only "break-in" advice I follow from the manual is to vary the RPM while driving and to not race the engine. I'm in the camp of, drive it the way it is going to be driven from the get go. If something is going to fail, it will fail right away and it will fail while you still have your bumper to bumper warranty. Babying the car during its "break-in" period will only benefit the manufacturer.

I don't see using "sport mode" breaking stuff if used during "break-in". Just be sure vary the RPM when driving.
Click to expand...

if you're the type of driver that is always doing full throttle pulls, then you should not be driving that way from the get go when breaking in your engine.

could you explain to me how babying the car would benefit the manufacturer?
 
GJ-Molestor said:
if you're the type of driver that is always doing full throttle pulls, then you should not be driving that way from the get go when breaking in your engine.
Click to expand...
There's two camps on this "break-in" debate. Those who drive/ride it like it's meant to be driven and those who baby the car/motorbike. I'm simply in the camp that believes that you drive it the way you are going to drive it from the start. I do go WOT and redline it when passing. I don't do full throttle pulls just for fun. I drive it like it will be driven.

GJ-Molestor said:
could you explain to me how babying the car would benefit the manufacturer?
Click to expand...
Babying the car means that if there are any defects in your car, it will show up much much later in ownership, like when you are out of warranty. This benefits the manufacturer because they don't have to fix/replace anything for you.
 
finch204 said:
There's two camps on this "break-in" debate. Those who drive/ride it like it's meant to be driven and those who baby the car/motorbike. I'm simply in the camp that believes that you drive it the way you are going to drive it from the start. I do go WOT and redline it when passing. I don't do full throttle pulls just for fun. I drive it like it will be driven.




Babying the car means that if there are any defects in your car, it will show up much much later in ownership, like when you are out of warranty. This benefits the manufacturer because they don't have to fix/replace anything for you.
Click to expand...

Back to back full throttle pulls during the early stages of the cars life is what will cause your engine to burn oil or premature wear on your transmission. As long as you avoid repeated redlines, you're good to go. By varying the rpms, they mean city driving where you are constantly revving to 3000rpm or so. That's the best way to break in your engine.

If anything, manufacturers like BMW want you to be hard on the car when it's new, change your engine oil every 15k and never change your transmission fluid at all which causes premature wear, in hopes of you bringing your car into the dealer so they make money off the repair. There certainly is two sides to this argument.

I don't think you should baby your car when it's new, but you can't be tracking it and thoroughly putting everything through its paces either. It has to be somewhere in between for optimal results.

If there is in fact a fault with the engine or transmission, believe me, it will fail on you well before your warranty expires even if you baby the car from new.
 
...similar when pushing the shift lever into to "Manual" mode. While in Manual mode, you cannot shift higher than "5".

Also, if and when you set the cruise control, Sport mode will automatically disengage. So, using it to accelerate on the highway is just fine and then when you turn on/set the cruise control, Sport modes turns off automatically minimizing the mpg hit.

I'm not really and advocate for the paddle shifters that some have installed on their CX-5 and enjoy on their Mazda3s. The paddle shifters give you and a quicker access to downshifts and then all returns to normal mode when the paddles aren't used for a certain period of time.

So, in the end, Sport mode is great when zippy response is needed and you don't mind moderate gear holding
 
finch204 said:
The only "break-in" advice I follow from the manual is to vary the RPM while driving and to not race the engine. I'm in the camp of, drive it the way it is going to be driven from the get go. If something is going to fail, it will fail right away and it will fail while you still have your bumper to bumper warranty. Babying the car during its "break-in" period will only benefit the manufacturer.

I don't see using "sport mode" breaking stuff if used during "break-in". Just be sure vary the RPM when driving.
Click to expand...

One thing nobody mentions when discussing breaking in a new car, is the first oil change interval.
I have read repeatedly that people wait until 6 or 7,000 miles before doing their first oil change.
I firmly believe that this is a bad strategy.
I strongly advise that you get rid of the oil early that's in the engine when it was new.
On a new engine, there is going to be minute particles floating around in the oil from the break-in period.
I have always done an oil change after the first 1,000 miles, and I have never had an engine problem in any vehicle that I have owned.
Get that factory oil out of there early.
After that, you can follow the recommended oil change intervals.
No way would I run a new engine for 6,000 plus miles on the original oil.
 
Particles in your oil is a myth left over from the old days.
I broke my engine in to 600 miles. I'm not leaking oil. 3,000 sounds excessive to me.
 
There is a theory on 247 that factory oil protects more than regular. Thus its wise to let it stay for 6k miles. The moly oil seems great. I changed 6k will start pushing to 8k intervals.
 
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