2017 cx-5 sport mode

Back to back full throttle pulls during the early stages of the cars life is what will cause your engine to burn oil or premature wear on your transmission. As long as you avoid repeated redlines, you're good to go. By varying the rpms, they mean city driving where you are constantly revving to 3000rpm or so. That's the best way to break in your engine.

If anything, manufacturers like BMW want you to be hard on the car when it's new, change your engine oil every 15k and never change your transmission fluid at all which causes premature wear, in hopes of you bringing your car into the dealer so they make money off the repair. There certainly is two sides to this argument.

I don't think you should baby your car when it's new, but you can't be tracking it and thoroughly putting everything through its paces either. It has to be somewhere in between for optimal results.

If there is in fact a fault with the engine or transmission, believe me, it will fail on you well before your warranty expires even if you baby the car from new.

What exactly do you suppose happens to an engine to "cause" it to burn oil if you use full throttle early on in its life? I was careful with mine for the first couple of hundred then moved progressively towards normal driving and if that included overtaking then that's what it got. Modern engines are built to such fine tolerances that there is no longer a need to knock the high spots off metal parts or free a tight engine or other parts of the powertrain. I can absolutely guarantee that company and rental cars get no running in period and I'm not aware that they are guaranteed to burn oil.

Whether an engine uses oil is down to inherent design, tolerance "stack" and the type of oil it is filled with (modern synthetic oils are very effective at clinging to surfaces and can get past oil control rings into the upper cylinder where it is burned). I thought there would be no end to oil dilution on the Skyactive diesel but so far at 1800 miles, the oil is pinned to exactly the same spot as the day it came. That means not being used, not being diluted or I suppose without measuring the viscosity and composition of an oil sample, that by amazing coincidence that both are occurring at the same rate. The revised engine has brand new pistons and rings and having been a vehicle development engineer for most of my life, I believe that these piston changes are the stand alone factor in whether it uses oil and only slight bedding of the piston rings during a short bedding period (of the almost imperceptible machining marks left from production) will serve to reduce any initial oil consumption, not increase it. In my case, the position of the oil is too vague on the stick to be precise but I'm happy to report that the oil level has not changed on my 2017 diesel. It's a remarkable improvement in design and nothing to do with how it has been driven as I've done nothing different.
 
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What exactly do you suppose happens to an engine to "cause" it to burn oil if you use full throttle early on in its life? I was careful with mine for the first couple of hundred then moved progressively towards normal driving and if that included overtaking then that's what it got. Modern engines are built to such fine tolerances that there is no longer a need to knock the high spots off metal parts or free a tight engine or other parts of the powertrain. I can absolutely guarantee that company and rental cars get no running in period and I'm not aware that they are guaranteed to burn oil.

Whether an engine uses oil is down to inherent design, tolerance "stack" and the type of oil it is filled with (modern synthetic oils are very effective at clinging to surfaces and can get past oil control rings into the upper cylinder where it is burned). I thought there would be no end to oil dilution on the Skyactive diesel but so far at 1800 miles, the oil is pinned to exactly the same spot as the day it came. That means not being used, not being diluted or I suppose without measuring the viscosity and composition of an oil sample, that by amazing coincidence that both are occurring at the same rate. The revised engine has brand new pistons and rings and having been a vehicle development engineer for most of my life, I believe that these piston changes are the stand alone factor in whether it uses oil and only slight bedding of the piston rings during a short bedding period (of the almost imperceptible machining marks left from production) will serve to reduce any initial oil consumption, not increase it. In my case, the position of the oil is too vague on the stick to be precise but I'm happy to report that the oil level has not changed on my 2017 diesel. It's a remarkable improvement in design and nothing to do with how it has been driven as I've done nothing different.

Typical driving breaks engines in just fine, but most of my cars have burned oil for the first 500-1K miles, and then they completely stopped. My Z06 was the worst, of course, at 427ci, I guess it had the largest surface area for oil to get burned by passing through.
Another issue is the PCV system on some cars. They burn oil no-matter how well the rings seal.

If you're not burning over a quart per oil change, I'd not worry about it.

My OPINION is that break-in is mostly for the transmission, brakes, diffs, transfer case, clutch (if equipped), etc. Not necessarily "the engine", although the engine DOES get some break-in. No matter how well the surfaces are "micro-polished", you still have dimensional variance. For example, do you think the cams sit 100% straight in the heads? What about the crank? I mean, I bet they are VERY CLOSE to traversing the block/heads square-on like they should be, but there is no way they are PERFECT, so no-matter how polished the bearings, there will still be "high spots" along that cam/crank's bearing journal's journey through the items, as it were. See what I mean? Surfaces could be flawless, still have "tight spots", or "tighter" spots. Aluminum shifts when you machine it. That's just a fact of life. I am friends with companies who work with aluminum in the DoD industry, and every algorithm they program for a rifle receiver, rail, etc. has to take ambient temp, as well as material movement into account, and they must s top and verify/re-program/re-fixture for each operation, if the part is to be TRUE.

now think of how much material is machined away on these new SkyActiv blocks! That's a LOT of opportunity for material shift. Yes, I am sure it is all measured and kept within a tolerance, but again...it ain't perfect. Break-in isn't a bad idea, but also again, the vehicle is driven before ANYONE gets it.

It is driven a few miles at the plant usually. It is driven around the loading docks. It is driven aboard ship in Japan. It is driven onto US soil. It is driven to semi or rail transport. It is driven to the dealer. This driving is all done by low-paid workers who do it 100+ times a day, and they romp on those mofos sometimes (often). I used to live near a GM plant that was always taking vehicles to the rail depot about 3/4 mile away. They romped on 'em! Even though it was boring stuff like the Canyon or Colorado or whatever the smaller truck was, etc.
 
What exactly do you suppose happens to an engine to "cause" it to burn oil if you use full throttle early on in its life? I was careful with mine for the first couple of hundred then moved progressively towards normal driving and if that included overtaking then that's what it got. Modern engines are built to such fine tolerances that there is no longer a need to knock the high spots off metal parts or free a tight engine or other parts of the powertrain. I can absolutely guarantee that company and rental cars get no running in period and I'm not aware that they are guaranteed to burn oil.

Whether an engine uses oil is down to inherent design, tolerance "stack" and the type of oil it is filled with (modern synthetic oils are very effective at clinging to surfaces and can get past oil control rings into the upper cylinder where it is burned). I thought there would be no end to oil dilution on the Skyactive diesel but so far at 1800 miles, the oil is pinned to exactly the same spot as the day it came. That means not being used, not being diluted or I suppose without measuring the viscosity and composition of an oil sample, that by amazing coincidence that both are occurring at the same rate. The revised engine has brand new pistons and rings and having been a vehicle development engineer for most of my life, I believe that these piston changes are the stand alone factor in whether it uses oil and only slight bedding of the piston rings during a short bedding period (of the almost imperceptible machining marks left from production) will serve to reduce any initial oil consumption, not increase it. In my case, the position of the oil is too vague on the stick to be precise but I'm happy to report that the oil level has not changed on my 2017 diesel. It's a remarkable improvement in design and nothing to do with how it has been driven as I've done nothing different.

Typical driving breaks engines in just fine, but most of my cars have burned oil for the first 500-1K miles, and then they completely stopped. My Z06 was the worst, of course, at 427ci, I guess it had the largest surface area for oil to get burned by passing through.
Another issue is the PCV system on some cars. They burn oil no-matter how well the rings seal.

If you're not burning over a quart per oil change, I'd not worry about it.

My OPINION is that break-in is mostly for the transmission, brakes, diffs, transfer case, clutch (if equipped), etc. Not necessarily "the engine", although the engine DOES get some break-in. No matter how well the surfaces are "micro-polished", you still have dimensional variance. For example, do you think the cams sit 100% straight in the heads? What about the crank? I mean, I bet they are VERY CLOSE to traversing the block/heads square-on like they should be, but there is no way they are PERFECT, so no-matter how polished the bearings, there will still be "high spots" along that cam/crank's bearing journal's journey through the items, as it were. See what I mean? Surfaces could be flawless, still have "tight spots", or "tighter" spots. Aluminum shifts when you machine it. That's just a fact of life. I am friends with companies who work with aluminum in the DoD industry, and every algorithm they program for a rifle receiver, rail, etc. has to take ambient temp, as well as material movement into account, and they must s top and verify/re-program/re-fixture for each operation, if the part is to be TRUE.

now think of how much material is machined away on these new SkyActiv blocks! That's a LOT of opportunity for material shift. Yes, I am sure it is all measured and kept within a tolerance, but again...it ain't perfect. Break-in isn't a bad idea, but also again, the vehicle is driven before ANYONE gets it.

It is driven a few miles at the plant usually. It is driven around the loading docks. It is driven aboard ship in Japan. It is driven onto US soil. It is driven to semi or rail transport. It is driven to the dealer. This driving is all done by low-paid workers who do it 100+ times a day, and they romp on those mofos sometimes (often). I used to live near a GM plant that was always taking vehicles to the rail depot about 3/4 mile away. They romped on 'em! Even though it was boring stuff like the Canyon or Colorado or whatever the smaller truck was, etc.

The engine tolerances are not perfectly sealed when the engine is new. After 3000 miles metal shavings break off around the pistons valves etc and make a perfect deal with the engine.

You are not going to destroy your engine and cause it to burn oil by just overtaking, like anchorman said back to back full throttle pulls when the car was new is my definition of not properly breaking in a motor, and you can always blame exactly that when you come across someone who is complaining of excess oil consumption or transmission failure for seemingly no reason
 
The engine tolerances are not perfectly sealed when the engine is new. After 3000 miles metal shavings break off around the pistons valves etc and make a perfect deal with the engine.

You are not going to destroy your engine and cause it to burn oil by just overtaking, like anchorman said back to back full throttle pulls when the car was new is my definition of not properly breaking in a motor, and you can always blame exactly that when you come across someone who is complaining of excess oil consumption or transmission failure for seemingly no reason

I strongly disagree. Some vehicles are broken in that way, and do fine, some are, and don't, etc.

That said, I do agree that doing that is NOT the way to get optimal life. Take expensive commercial engines for large diesels, etc. They have VERY SPECIFIC break-in instructions. There is a reason, much as you state. That said, the vehicle is made to make up for "the idiot consumer", by and large.
 
I strongly disagree. Some vehicles are broken in that way, and do fine, some are, and don't, etc.

That said, I do agree that doing that is NOT the way to get optimal life. Take expensive commercial engines for large diesels, etc. They have VERY SPECIFIC break-in instructions. There is a reason, much as you state. That said, the vehicle is made to make up for "the idiot consumer", by and large.

So do you strongly disagree with me or not? I don't understand. I've seen it many times on many different vehicles.

Someone tried launch control on the ZF transmission while the car was still new, and what do you know... the transmission developed a whining sound and failed shortly after. Dealership replaces transmission under warranty, he does the EXACT same thing and the transmission fails AGAIN in exactly the same way.

the reason why some cars are perfectly fine and others are not depends on how many times you redlined it when new. If you did it a few times here and there, not all in a row you're not going to hurt anything at all. But repeated redlines is what hurts the seals during the break-in process and leaves you with an engine that doesn't perform as well as it could have and burns some oil.

Not only have I found many examples from people that proves my theory, but I've done it before myself. I took out the Mazda when it had about 2000 miles on it, did several full throttle pulls that night and what do you know, it burns some oil. Nothing major, but roughly 1L of liqui moly 5w30 every 15,000km. Now if I did the same thing but waited until 3000 miles, I'm willing to bet that it would not burn a drop of oil.

Now the best way to break in your drivetrain when new is city driving. In theory, always stopping and going (continually revving the car to 3K RPM through the gears from a stop should break in the engine a bit faster. But regardless, the rule should be 3000 miles before you can be hard on the motor.

Ask any old-school mechanic. Some of you may disagree on this, but I still think it's better to be safe then sorry either way.
 
So do you strongly disagree with me or not? I don't understand. I've seen it many times on many different vehicles.

Someone tried launch control on the ZF transmission while the car was still new, and what do you know... the transmission developed a whining sound and failed shortly after. Dealership replaces transmission under warranty, he does the EXACT same thing and the transmission fails AGAIN in exactly the same way.

the reason why some cars are perfectly fine and others are not depends on how many times you redlined it when new. If you did it a few times here and there, not all in a row you're not going to hurt anything at all. But repeated redlines is what hurts the seals during the break-in process and leaves you with an engine that doesn't perform as well as it could have and burns some oil.

Not only have I found many examples from people that proves my theory, but I've done it before myself. I took out the Mazda when it had about 2000 miles on it, did several full throttle pulls that night and what do you know, it burns some oil. Nothing major, but roughly 1L of liqui moly 5w30 every 15,000km. Now if I did the same thing but waited until 3000 miles, I'm willing to bet that it would not burn a drop of oil.

Now the best way to break in your drivetrain when new is city driving. In theory, always stopping and going (continually revving the car to 3K RPM through the gears from a stop should break in the engine a bit faster. But regardless, the rule should be 3000 miles before you can be hard on the motor.

Ask any old-school mechanic. Some of you may disagree on this, but I still think it's better to be safe then sorry either way.

Some engines simply burn oil. My LS1 car burned oil. Piston rock (short skirt pistons) and low-tension oil-rings. It was life. That's just how it went. They all did it to varying degrees.

The only old-school guy I knew would build a race-car on Saturday night, and beat the s*** out of it on Sunday night. He placed very well in every race his cars entered, barring a wreck (dirt-track). He was running deep in the 11's at well over 120mph in the 70's. Showed me photos AND the timeslips. That was damn fast back then...so by virtue of his accomplishments, I simply have to say "he was right about enough to win".

I subscribe to the "do what the manufacturer stated" line, though.

Then you have cars like the ZR1, and the break-in for the clutch and engine are a 1000-1500 mile process, progressively getting rougher and rougher on it. Yet the carbon-fiber brakes break-in instructions were, I believe, something like 30 trips from 0-60-0 as fast as the car could do it, lol!
 
http://www.roadandtrack.com/car-culture/buying-maintenance/videos/a31398/best-way-to-break-in-new-car/

500 miles thru various RPM ranges, withholding from WOT is all you need...

also...new Acura NSX breaks in every engine on the dyno all the way to max rpms, but no WOT.

Yep, LOAD is a HUGE part of break-in. It affects driveline too, so...keep in mind.

I spoke with the guys who build the LS7 in my car. They said break-in was mainly for the rest of the car, not the LS7. I found that the LS7 in my car used oil for about 5-600 miles, then stopped. The tail-pipes also stayed spotless thereafter vs. sooty.
 
Yep, LOAD is a HUGE part of break-in. It affects driveline too, so...keep in mind.

I spoke with the guys who build the LS7 in my car. They said break-in was mainly for the rest of the car, not the LS7. I found that the LS7 in my car used oil for about 5-600 miles, then stopped. The tail-pipes also stayed spotless thereafter vs. sooty.

I actually heard something similar regarding those LS engines.
 
I actually heard something similar regarding those LS engines.

The lsx is the best engine series on the planet, in my opinion. Great fuel economy, tons of power, simple, very small and light physically. But they did have some foibles. The worst was the out of spec valve guides used through 2012 on the ls7. It wasn't a design flaw but a tolerance issue. Fixed for 2013, I believe. Mine never had issue, and most dont, but many also did...
 
8 autos, 14 motorcycles. NONE of them burned more than a quarter of a quart of oil between oil changes. Well past a million miles of driving, the cycles and several of the cars raced in amateur races.

All broken-in per the engineering expertise of Gordon Jennings, author of the Two-stroke Tuner's Handbook.

Piston rings don't bed in under low-pressure conditions. You need near-full-throttle loads, for short periods of time (a couple seconds). This allows the rough surface of the cylinder wall to wear the rings smooth, and the high pressure allows the higher ring pressure onto the cylinder wall to break off the rough peaks before then can wear grooves in the rings.

Drive like a scared old lady, and you ensure that the ring/cylinder interface will leak oil, and high-pressure combustion gasses.
 
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