Popping Under slight break while slowing down- CV joints?

terrywood23

Member
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mazda, familia (AKA: protege 5)
I have a 2003 Mazda Familia (protege5 in the United States)(US Military Stationed in Okinawa Japan). It has less than 42,000 miles on it and about 7K of those are from me. I drive fairly aggressive and this issue has been slowly getting worse.

There is an audible popping during easy breaking while slowing down. It slows with my speed and only appears while pressing the break. I have had it on a lift and checked ball joint, tie-rods, etc and nothing seems loose. I replaced the breaks when I first got the car and checked during this inspection; nothing is loose on the calipers, the pads are solid with no movement that I can tell, the rotors are not warped and do not move.

I am leaning toward CV joints being bad but there is no popping under acceleration while turning or going straight. Both boots are good. No bushings underneath seem deteriorated. And, I have no knowledge of any past issues or maintenance that was done to the car.

I have posted a video; after the 2 minute mark, a lot of the background noise dies and you can REALLY hear to true sound of the popping.

Just looking for ideas before I go spending money on parts. CV axles are not cheap here.

Thanks!

 
Umm the only other thing I'd check would be the lower control arm bushings! But I think that it seems like the axles since they make the noise while you're moving
 
Strut bearings and strut mount bushings. Mine was doing the exact same thing. I replaced em. Noise gone. Jack the car up get weight off the mounts, then try again. If noise is gone more than likely bushings and bearings for ur struts.
 
I have a 2003 Mazda Familia (protege5 in the United States)(US Military Stationed in Okinawa Japan). It has less than 42,000 miles on it and about 7K of those are from me. I drive fairly aggressive and this issue has been slowly getting worse.

There is an audible popping during easy breaking while slowing down. It slows with my speed and only appears while pressing the break. I have had it on a lift and checked ball joint, tie-rods, etc and nothing seems loose. I replaced the breaks when I first got the car and checked during this inspection; nothing is loose on the calipers, the pads are solid with no movement that I can tell, the rotors are not warped and do not move.

I am leaning toward CV joints being bad but there is no popping under acceleration while turning or going straight. Both boots are good. No bushings underneath seem deteriorated. And, I have no knowledge of any past issues or maintenance that was done to the car.

I have posted a video; after the 2 minute mark, a lot of the background noise dies and you can REALLY hear to true sound of the popping.

Just looking for ideas before I go spending money on parts. CV axles are not cheap here.

Thanks!


That is your text book symptom of a bad CV. If you don't have those, they're not likely to be the problem.
 
I suppose he could remove his axles and get his friends to push the car...

Then he could use his "brake" to stop it ???

(I have been drinking)

Where ya at I could use one too!
 
But the video he's standing still....not moving so not technically while braking.....he could release brake and use parking brake or even just in park and see if noise is still there. I doubt it's axles just because the fact that they are not really doing much aside from front to back motion.
 
Thanks for the feedback. Changed the swaybar end links this weekend (cheap, available, and known to make popping noises). The popping that was present while the car was still while just turning the tires is better but still present. I think there are/were several things bad.

But the video he's standing still....not moving so not technically while braking.....he could release brake and use parking brake or even just in park and see if noise is still there. I doubt it's axles just because the fact that they are not really doing much aside from front to back motion.

Popping only present while applying break.... it's weird. I was thinking CV axle because the joints change position as the axle spins and it made sense in my mind that a worn or rusty u-joint could "bind" and make a similar noise but not 100% sure.
 
Thanks for the feedback. Changed the swaybar end links this weekend (cheap, available, and known to make popping noises). The popping that was present while the car was still while just turning the tires is better but still present. I think there are/were several things bad.



Popping only present while applying break.... it's weird. I was thinking CV axle because the joints change position as the axle spins and it made sense in my mind that a worn or rusty u-joint could "bind" and make a similar noise but not 100% sure.

All is possible. Imma see if I can get mine to do it, I'll swap the mounts and send a clip u can be the judge
 
I used to work at a speed shop in Yomiton out past tori station unfortunately me nor the shop is there anymore enjoy your time there I miss it everyday!!!
 
I used to work at a speed shop in Yomiton out past tori station unfortunately me nor the shop is there anymore enjoy your time there I miss it everyday!!!

Do you know if the Mazda Familia (Japanese version) and Protege5 have the same/compatible parts?
 
No I'm sorry I do not you may check with one of the auto hobby shops on base they may know. What kind of parts are you wondering about?
 
Thanks for all the input.

I have found that the right CV Axle was the cause of the popping during breaking. The sway bar end links and right outer tie rod end was the source of the popping while turning. None of the boots were torn nor was there play in the joint but when I cut open and looked I found that the ball slot edges were not smooth.
 
wow, the EXACT same thing just started happening to me on my P5 today. exact same sound...how do you tell which side is bad without cutting the boot?
 
wow, the EXACT same thing just started happening to me on my P5 today. exact same sound...how do you tell which side is bad without cutting the boot?

Just do both...it's cheap. (but you'll probably need a sledge to get the axle outta the hub)
Both sides are probably close to worn out.

This is Canadian dollars... You guys pay like, seven bucks...

Screenshot_2017-10-04-20-29-46.png
 
wow, the EXACT same thing just started happening to me on my P5 today. exact same sound...how do you tell which side is bad without cutting the boot?

I had someone ride with me in the passenger seat, lean over while breaking and put their head right by the steering wheel. I then had them lean forward on the passenger side and tell me what they thought was louder. I used my 10 year old daughter for this.

I cut the boot open and it was so messy that I didn't try to investigate to see what was actually generating the sound.

I agree with "pcb"; replace both sides. I only replaced the right side so far but am going to replace the other side today (this one is going to be hard to get out of the tranny I imagine.

I had to put the left side hub in a vise so the axle was "free moving" and beat the spline shaft with a four pound sledge to get it out.... it had also been soaked multiple times in WD40 over the last month.

I would also add.... since you are taking it apart anyway, the tie rod ends and sway bar end links are very cheap as well. I would recommend changing them all since they all could be making that noise. I noticed my steering felt more "snug" since replacing everything.
 
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... am going to replace the other side today (this one is going to be hard to get out of the tranny I imagine...

A lot of people had a really hard time installing the CV shaft... getting the clip to pop in. (I forget which side).

Apparently the best thing to do is crawl under the car and hold the CV shaft perfectly straight while pushing it in to take up all the slack then get someone to give it a good hit with a sledgehammer.
 
A lot of people had a really hard time installing the CV shaft... getting the clip to pop in. (I forget which side).

Apparently the best thing to do is crawl under the car and hold the CV shaft perfectly straight while pushing it in to take up all the slack then get someone to give it a good hit with a sledgehammer.

The left side (directly into the tranny) was much easier than the right....

I had to use a sledge (and a block of wood for protecting the spline) on the right but, just needed a hard yank with a pry bar to remove and then a body weight jarring shove to get it past the slip-ring on the left.
 
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