Dome lights wont come on when doors open?

I remember going to the Mazda dealership in the late 80's to buy a Factory Service Manual (FSM) for my 1983 Mazda GLC...

It was just after they were "Allowed" to sell the FSM to customers... I spent $200,.. Not including the wiring diagrams.
 

Same ones I've got... There's a whole bunch missing...

Screenshot_2017-10-05-18-54-24.png


Screenshot_2017-10-05-18-54-38.png
 
At the dealer...

You may have to buy the Factory Service Manual first (FSM) for about $200 .. Then you will qualify to purchase the Wiring diagrams for $100-$200...
Even in American dollars.

I would greatly appreciate if you purchased the Wiring Diagrams and posted them to this forum...
I can help a lot more people with the full wiring diagrams..

I hope you have the $300-$400 to buy them... Good luck...


Wiring diagram manuals on ebay.


https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned)
 
Wow damn, did not expect that. So I just ground it to whatever and the switch will work?
Or is it not possible to use the switch if I don't wire to the metal tabs?

Probably the switch has three connectors. If it is at all logical the outer two go to the two wires (always on, on when the door is open) and the center one goes to the light. The other side of the light goes to ground. If an LED is put in instead of a light bulb be sure to get the proper orientation or it will not pass current and will not light up. If it is a bare LED a current limiting resistor is needed in series with it (to ground would be easiest) or it will burn out when exposed to 12V. If it is an LED based light module designed to replace a bulb that resistor should already be in it.
 
I can tell you if you short the dome light wires you will loose the dome light control and dimming permanently. I suppose there is something repairable in the cluster board.
 
Hey all,

If I use 12v door trigger and 12v headlight switch and put a diode on both and connect to the leds, will it work alright?
 
Hey all,

If I use 12v door trigger and 12v headlight switch and put a diode on both and connect to the leds, will it work alright?

Look at this drawing:

drawing.png

Your verbal description sounds like A. Don't do that, the light will be on all the time. You want B - no diodes needed, just wire the led lamp element to the dome switch where the bulb would have been. If the lamp has a polarity then be sure to put it in the right way.
 
It is the EU spec Mazda 323f lantis so I am not exactly sure of the exact name of it in the US.
 
It is the EU spec Mazda 323f lantis so I am not exactly sure of the exact name of it in the US.

Well, I'll let you know what the wiring diagram says about it when I get the manual but it may not be the same for your car...
 
It is the exact same car I am certain, the difference between europe spec and US is visual (front bumper, you get side skirts - we don't)
 
I wanted to make it so that when I open any door the footwell lights up, so say the car is off and I am getting into the drivers seat the footwell lights come on.

If you need to see where your feet are going (for what reason I cannot guess) could you not just turn on the headlights once you open the door? The stalk is right there, easy to reach from outside the car, and if you have a dome bulb installed and that switch is in the "doors" position there will be enough light to see the headlight stalk even if the conditions are pitch black. I mean, the sequence you seem to want is: open door, footwell lights turn on, get in, turn on headlights. That isn't very different at all from: open door, turn on headlights, footwell lights turn on, get in. It is the exact same number of actions, just in a different order. It has the added benefit you don't need to do a thing to the existing wiring.
 
Because I want them on when I open the door, off when it is closed and on when im driving.
Switching it to on when driving and then off when I am exiting will get annoying quickly...

If you can ditch the "on when driving" part, this would be real easy...

Just run wires from the dome light + (or the harness once I get my wiring manual) down to your footlights.

You shouldn't really be driving with your feet all lit up anyway... It's distracting.
 
I ordered this to go along with my wiring diagrams...

Screenshot_2017-10-30-15-17-03.png


I should be able to measure everything except the starter motor...

We have a 100 amp main fuse so I ordered the 100 amp shunt...
 
My New Wiring Diagrams Arrived !!!

I'm all excited !!

So it looks like the dome light is wired a bit different than I thought.

There is a constant +12 V wire going to it and the other is a separate path to ground going through the microprocessor in the cluster as well as a ground going through through the screws into the body.

I'm sure you can get the desired effects you want with the foot well lighting but you will need some kind of circuit to control it.

OR...
You could replace the +12 V feed wire with an ignition wire so that it turns off with the ignition...

The map lights could be fed +12 V normally so you can use them with the key removed.

You might have to feed the ignition wire to the dome light and wire it in there so that the map lights still have power all the time from the original wire, depending on where the splice happens.
Their might be two separate wires leaving the connector, one going to the map, one going to the dome light (as well as the wire going to the cluster for the door switch)

The connector with the wires your interested in the pillar beside the dash at about dash height... X-12.

IMG_20171031_134428.jpg


IMG_20171031_134636.jpg


IMG_20171031_135452.jpg
 
I just read this again...

Because I want them on when I open the door, off when it is closed and on when im driving.
Switching it to on when driving and then off when I am exiting will get annoying quickly...

My way won't light up your foot well when you open a door but it will shut them off "automatically" when you leave the car...
 
Back