Dome lights wont come on when doors open?

If I wire a strip of leds to the bulb socket while keeping the illumination wire still wired will it fry it?
Say I wire it that way and then turn on headlights with a door open?

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There is two positive wires running to the middle light.
One I from the timer circuit using the door switch and the second is 12 Volts all the time.
I don't remember if there is a negative wire or if it uses body ground.

The switch feeds one positive wire to the bulb, then the other, then none for off.
 
If you run wires from the timer circuit in dome down to the front? footwell? lights then why wouldn't the dome and footwells do the same thing depending on what position the dome switch is in?
 
If I wire a strip of leds to the bulb socket while keeping the illumination wire still wired will it fry it?
Say I wire it that way and then turn on headlights with a door open?

As long as you don't put in a 10 watt original bulb, you will be fine.

You can just leave the bulb out or get a LED for it and run the strip as well.

Keep an eye on your total Watts, you don't want to go over ten Watts.

Don't combine circuits... The LED strip should be powered Only by the middle light.

Your ambient lights right now are controlled and dimmed by the dimmer dial on the dash... You can't combine the circuits without some fancy circuitry added.
 
If you run wires from the timer circuit in dome down to the front? footwell? lights then why wouldn't the dome and footwells do the same thing depending on what position the dome switch is in?

They will but he can't run the foot well lights off both the dimmer dial on the dash AND the dome light at the same time.

The guy that blew his dome circuit had too much power going through it.
He didn't blow a simple fuse, he blew a non fixable circuit. (he could probably replace his cluster though)
 
If you run wires from the timer circuit in dome down to the front? footwell? lights then why wouldn't the dome and footwells do the same thing depending on what position the dome switch is in?
Because I want them on when I open the door, off when it is closed and on when im driving.
Switching it to on when driving and then off when I am exiting will get annoying quickly.

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Because I want them on when I open the door, off when it is closed and on when im driving.
Switching it to on when driving and then off when I am exiting will get annoying quickly.

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But you don't want your front lights (the ones near the rearview mirror) on when your driving do you?

What about leaving your ambient lighting the way it is,.. controlled by the headlights and dimmer dial then adding separate foot lighting and front lights hooked up to the dome circuit.
 
Sorry if I got everyone mixed up.
I have footwell lightning, not ambient light.
4 led strips wired to a led controller.
The controller is wired to illumination (headlights on/off) from the radio harness.
I wanted to make it so that when I open any door the footwell lights up, so say the car is off and I am getting into the drivers seat the footwell lights come on.
However I want to retain the ability to turn the footwell lighting on/off with the headlight switch.

The lights near the rearview mirror are not related to this, I just used them as an example.

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Well,... I suppose you could get some kind of circuit that would use the dome light as an input signal fed to your LED controller,... I don't know how to do that.

Or,... You could get one of these...

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It's a dome light bulb and it's only 1.44 Watts then tap into the bulb holder, feed wires to the front LED's then down to the foot well to a few more bulbs.
You would have two separate lighting systems for the foot well but that could be good because you could have brighter lighting to see your way in and out of the car.
 
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I have the JDM footwell light kit hooked into my dome circuit with a red halogen bulb in dome and when the doors open, footwells light up with dome and dim out when door closes like dome does. When I turn on the dome with the switch on roof, the footwell lighting does not come on and dimming the gauges does nothing to dome or footwell lighting. When the roof switch is in off position, only the footwell lights come on when doors open. This all works independent of parking/headlights.
 
I have the JDM footwell light kit hooked into my dome circuit with a red halogen bulb in dome and when the doors open, footwells light up with dome and dim out when door closes like dome does. When I turn on the dome with the switch on roof, the footwell lighting does not come on and dimming the gauges does nothing to dome or footwell lighting. When the roof switch is in off position, only the footwell lights come on when doors open. This all works independent of parking/headlights.

OK,.. That makes sense... Your foot well lighting is connected to just the one positive wire coming from the timer circuit to the dome light.
That wire would always be doing it's thing regardless of what position the dome switch is at.

He could tap into that wire too (instead of the bulb socket) and get his foot well lights to work like yours but he still couldn't have the foot well lit up while driving unless he combines his circuits with a new circuit.

(and yea,... you could probably just hook both circuits to it but if you open your door with the headlight on, you could blow something up as mentioned)

You can also tap into that wire in the harness somewhere else instead of the dome light itself.
 
I don't care about having my footwells lit while driving or any other time than getting in/out of car but if I did I would just do footwells separately with it's own switch................
 
I wouldn't want my feet all lit up when I'm driving... I would find it distracting...

My dome light is always turned off...
I get in and out of my car in the dark.. I find the ignition and start it without looking.

My only problem is finding the keyhole in the door in the dark....
I don't use my remote.. I don't like the fancy toys.
 
When my car finally rots away, I'm gonna gets me a car that's not all complefied...

Screenshot_2017-07-29-00-57-03.png
 
Bumping this up instead of creating a new thread.
I found the two wires in driver a pillar that go from the the dome switch, one is positive one is ground I suppose.
Wired them to the leds, all working good except the on and off switch are not working. It does not matter what position the switch is set to - it still lights up on door open.
 
I found the two wires in driver a pillar that go from the the dome switch, one is positive one is ground I suppose...

I'm pretty sure that's not right.

The two wires are both positive.
One is live all the time so you can turn on the dome light without the key in the ignition.
The other is positive for when the door is open.
Ground is through the screws of the dome light into the metal roof.

What you probably have happening is some sort of short circuit/cross talk between the two positives but luckily the LEDs are so low current that you didn't fry your timer/door circuit.
 
I'm pretty sure that's not right.

The two wires are both positive.
One is live all the time so you can turn on the dome light without the key in the ignition.
The other is positive for when the door is open.
Ground is through the screws of the dome light into the metal roof.

What you probably have happening is some sort of short circuit/cross talk between the two positives but luckily the LEDs are so low current that you didn't fry your timer/door circuit.
Wow damn, did not expect that. So I just ground it to whatever and the switch will work?
Or is it not possible to use the switch if I don't wire to the metal tabs?
 
Wow damn, did not expect that. So I just ground it to whatever and the switch will work?

I'm not 100% sure but yes I think so... Treat those two wires as positives and use any ground.

The wiring diagrams are missing a lot of pages so there's a lot of guess work... Anything tied to security was deleted.

Screenshot_2017-10-04-20-03-06.png


Just be careful not to short the timer/door circuit or you could fry it... Then you'll have no door activated lighting. (one guy did do that and the circuit was dead... And I'm pretty sure the circuit and it's little microprocessor is located in the cluster.)
 
I'm not 100% sure but yes I think so... Treat those two wires as positives and use any ground.

The wiring diagrams are missing a lot of pages so there's a lot of guess work... Anything tied to security was deleted.

Screenshot_2017-10-04-20-03-06.png


Just be careful not to short the timer/door circuit or you could fry it... Then you'll have no door activated lighting. (one guy did do that and the circuit was dead... And I'm pretty sure the circuit and it's little microprocessor is located in the cluster.)
Where can I get a copy of said wiring diagram?
 
Where can I get a copy of said wiring diagram?

At the dealer...

You may have to buy the Factory Service Manual first (FSM) for about $200 .. Then you will qualify to purchase the Wiring diagrams for $100-$200...
Even in American dollars.

I would greatly appreciate if you purchased the Wiring Diagrams and posted them to this forum...
I can help a lot more people with the full wiring diagrams..

I hope you have the $300-$400 to buy them... Good luck...
 
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