Oil for the 2017

MikemSCV

Member
:
2017 Mazda CX 5 Sport White
I am seeing a lot of stuff over the site here, it seems like oem filter and oil are best but the oil can be bought from other places than the dealer. Does anyone have the exact product number and place to buy or should I bite the bullet and go to the sealership?
 
I am seeing a lot of stuff over the site here, it seems like oem filter and oil are best but the oil can be bought from other places than the dealer. Does anyone have the exact product number and place to buy or should I bite the bullet and go to the sealership?

our friendly site sponsor has oil change kits available with arguably one of the best oils on the market.
http://www.mazdaparts.org/mazda-oil-filter-moly-oil.html

If you get your order total to $100 you get free shipping.
 
our friendly site sponsor has oil change kits available with arguably one of the best oils on the market.
.......

agreed, some may argue it's a waste on money, but I'm going to stick with OEM moly oil that came with the CX-5......
the moly content is off the charts compared to other oils..... I'm up to 40,000 miles with no issues at all, always used Mazda filter and moly oil.

http://mazda3revolution.com/forums/2014-2017-mazda-3-skyactiv-engine-performance/54850-oil-used-2-5-2-0-skyactive-2.html


Source - Bobistheoilguy Oil Analysis postings.

Mazda's new oil is light but has a very impressive VI:

Mobil 1 5W-20
SAE Grade 5W-20
Viscosity @ 100C, cSt (ASTM D445) 8.9
Viscosity, @ 40C, cSt (ASTM D445) 49.8
Viscosity Index 160

Castrol Edge
SAE Grade 0W-20
Viscosity @ 100C, cSt (ASTM D445) 8.65
Viscosity, @ 40C, cSt (ASTM D445) 45.08
Viscosity Index 174

Compare this to the recommended high moly Mazda 0W-20:
Kinematic Viscosity at 100 degrees C (cSt) 8.3
Kinematic Viscosity at 40 degrees C (cSt) 35.0
Viscosity Index 225

Viscosity Index (VI) is an arbitrary scalar value that indicates the change in an oil’s viscosity with
changes in its temperature. A high Viscosity Index indicates less viscosity change when temperature increases, indicating better resistance to thinning, for a given oil and, likely better film strength retention under heat duress.
http://www.kittiwake.com/sites/defau... Dec12_0.pdf

Some of the additives (especially Moly) are off the scale compared to these other oils.
Mazda:
ZINC 842
MOLYBDENUM 664
BORON 266

Mobil1 0W-20
ZINC 787
MOLYBDENUM 54
BORON 73

Castrol Edge:
ZINC 852
MOLYBDENUM 107
BORON 113
 
Last edited:
stay away from 0w20.

I use liqui moly 5w30 and it is much better then whatever crap was used in the past. motul is also very good stuff.
 
There's nothing wrong with 0w-20, which many mfr's have been using for more than 5 years.

I add liqui moly additive to pennzoil ultra.
 
Moly is only good for when the car is cold-cranked, and it's not like it's the ONLY additive out there that is, or even the BEST additive.
 
Moly is only good for when the car is cold-cranked, and it's not like it's the ONLY additive out there that is, or even the BEST additive.

Not true.

Moly provides wear protection at all times and improves fuel economy by 1%.
It's expensive to add to oil, so not all oils have it, but Honda, Toyota and Mazda OEM oils are all fully of it for good reason.

Look at Mobil 1 AFE in the document colt linked.. it's cheap and it doesn't have moly and it provides poor wear protection.

Moly also inhibits low speed pre-igntion (LSPI)
 
using thinner oil is NOT a place where you want to try and be saving fuel. we all have been using 5w30 prior to the 0w nonsense for many years because the thicker oil provided superior engine protection.

I do agree with you however, that mobil 1 is a s*** oil.
 
using thinner oil is NOT a place where you want to try and be saving fuel. we all have been using 5w30 prior to the 0w nonsense for many years because the thicker oil provided superior engine protection.

I do agree with you however, that mobil 1 is a s*** oil.

That may be true in general, but that doesn't mean that "ow20" is somehow deficient or less reliable in the long run. More protection which may be unecessary at what expense? Lower mpg? More pumping loss? More heat retention? Turbo cars come with ow20 and they spin tenfold and heat much more than the motor does.. (shrug)
 
Not true.

Moly provides wear protection at all times and improves fuel economy by 1%.u
It's expensive to add to oil, so not all oils have it, but Honda, Toyota and Mazda OEM oils are all fully of it for good reason.

Look at Mobil 1 AFE in the document colt linked.. it's cheap and it doesn't have moly and it provides poor wear protection.

Moly also inhibits low speed pre-igntion (LSPI)
Low Speed Pre-Ignition (LSPI) has been discussed in this oil dilution thread:

2.5L Oil level fluctuation

My wife's CX-5 is seeing lots of short trips, and indeed the oil level goes up. Used oil analysis shows fuel dilution, as expected.
Reading about this I came across the condition that is called Low Speed Pre-Ignition, LSPI. Evidently, this only affects DI engines and is much more detrimental then regular pre-ignition that causes pinging. LSPI can't be detected by the knock sensor, so OEMs are dealing with it by dumping fuel under conditions that MAY cause LSPI, making it impossible to happen. Hence, most of the DI engines have fuel dilution problem, the fuel just burns off during long drives in fully warmed-up engine. No such luck for us short-trippers...
The hole keeps getting deeper and more stuff keeps coming out about this.. Click on the lubrication tab on this link and see what it says about moly oils
https://www.oronite.com/products/lspi.asp
 
Messaged a buddy of mine. Makes a lot of sense. I know I REFUSE to use moly in a gun oil.

Hardly any difference between the Castro Syntec and Mobil 1, but the Mazda has way too much MoS2 (moly disulfide) which will break down under heat and pressure and become Mo2S3 (moly trisulfide) which is abrasive and causes abrasive wear. I hate Molybdenum in oils. It was originally designed as a dry film lubricant but like graphite, some "know it all" genius (NOT) decided it would be a good addition to oils. That's such a huge falsity but sells donuts, if you know what I mean bro.
Go with Castrol Syntec as I have recommended it for years but one step up is Amsoil. It doesn't get any better than that. The synthetic base oil is more highly stable at high temps and the additive packages are superior. No EP but still the best for the performance and longevity!
Take care Jon and always good to hear from you brother. ������

Guy works in the lubricant industry and fills government contracts, etc. Knows his way around addpacks.
 
The Pennzoil Ultra Synthetic looks damn impressive and almost as expensive as the Mazda moly, too bad it's a scarcity around here.
 
Messaged a buddy of mine. Makes a lot of sense. I know I REFUSE to use moly in a gun oil.

Hardly any difference between the Castro Syntec and Mobil 1, but the Mazda has way too much MoS2 (moly disulfide) which will break down under heat and pressure and become Mo2S3 (moly trisulfide) which is abrasive and causes abrasive wear. I hate Molybdenum in oils. It was originally designed as a dry film lubricant but like graphite, some "know it all" genius (NOT) decided it would be a good addition to oils. That's such a huge falsity but sells donuts, if you know what I mean bro.
Go with Castrol Syntec as I have recommended it for years but one step up is Amsoil. It doesn't get any better than that. The synthetic base oil is more highly stable at high temps and the additive packages are superior. No EP but still the best for the performance and longevity!
Take care Jon and always good to hear from you brother. ������


Guy works in the lubricant industry and fills government contracts, etc. Knows his way around addpacks.

hmmm, interesting, didn't know this.... thx for info

so what are people using if not the Mazda moly oil ? Castro Edge 0W-20 ? I might switch to that 1/2 the price of the Mazda oil....


https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
 
Last edited:
My alternate oil is/was Pennzoil Platinum. It used to be plentiful at Walmart and at $23 for a 5 qt. jug it was quite a steal. Now they seem to be pushing Pennzoil 0w-20 synthetic blend, it's all over the place, PP is getting hard to find.
 
Messaged a buddy of mine. Makes a lot of sense. I know I REFUSE to use moly in a gun oil.



Guy works in the lubricant industry and fills government contracts, etc. Knows his way around addpacks.

Your friend is talking about Moly disulfide, that's not what gets added to the oil.
AFAIK Moly Disulfide is not soluble in oil and it'll settle to the bottom of the container and shouldn't be added to oil.

The high moly oils that all major Japanese car-makers use as OEM oil (Subaru, Honda, Toyota, Mazda) all have
Molybdenum DialkyldiThioCarbamate (MoDTC)
 
Messaged a buddy of mine. Makes a lot of sense. I know I REFUSE to use moly in a gun oil.

Hardly any difference between the Castro Syntec and Mobil 1, but the Mazda has way too much MoS2 (moly disulfide) which will break down under heat and pressure and become Mo2S3 (moly trisulfide) which is abrasive and causes abrasive wear. I hate Molybdenum in oils. It was originally designed as a dry film lubricant but like graphite, some "know it all" genius (NOT) decided it would be a good addition to oils. That's such a huge falsity but sells donuts, if you know what I mean bro.
Go with Castrol Syntec as I have recommended it for years but one step up is Amsoil. It doesn't get any better than that. The synthetic base oil is more highly stable at high temps and the additive packages are superior. No EP but still the best for the performance and longevity!
Take care Jon and always good to hear from you brother. ������

Guy works in the lubricant industry and fills government contracts, etc. Knows his way around addpacks.
Firstly, Castrol Syntec mentioned was US market only synthetic oil a while ago offered by Castrol, but it doesn't exist anymore and got replaced by different Castrol Edge synthetic oil which is available worldwide.

Secondly, as piotrek91 pointed out, Mazda moly oil contains molybdenum which is different from "molybdenum disulfide", MoS2. MoS2 is an inorganic compound composed of molybdenum and sulfur.

Chevron Oronite, who develops and markets additives that improve the performance of fuels and lubricants, has made the following comment from the link posted earlier:

"Molybdenum compounds, for example, not only provide frictional benefits, but also have been shown to decrease LSPI when used at high levels."

The back label on Genuine Mazda 0W-20 GF-5 with Moly Engine Oil says:

" Formulated for use in Mazda automobiles especially those with SKYACTIV technology
Provided superior protection in all temperatures
Includes high levels of MOLYBDENUM (Moly) which reduces wear, especially at low temperatures where the anti wear agents are inactive
Improves fuel efficiency
Always follow original equipment manufacture's fluid recommendations
Meets requirements for API SN and ILSAC GF-5


Not to mention the real world UOA and the reviews from Bobistheoilguy Oil Analysis postings provided by blackcx5 all prove Mazda moly oil is one of the best oils available.
 
I think he may be trying to say that some oils maintain higher viscosity at a higher temp... but that is an oil cooling issue not an oil issue..

this, but the thinner oil does not provide as much engine protection at full operating temperature.

0w20 is only beneficial for temperatures at or below -20c.
 
Back