75k mile maintenance observation / recommendation

bob ross

Member
:
Mazda CX-5 AWD 2.0L
2013 CPO CX-5 2.0L 76k miles
Avg. Fuelly MPG = 29.6

Throttle response was getting a bit spongy/soft on 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear acceleration. Shift points were reving RPM's higher then normal where 3rd gear felt labored holding a higher rpm. Downshift slow to respond climbing hills. Overall shift points felt less crisp. Engine was starting to get "louder" in the front end especially on cold start. Car was feeling and sounding more like a Chevy.

Realizing this was way "off" from the really crisp enjoyable ride I have experienced for the last 50k miles, I decided to opt for the KISS approach and change all fluids at 75k and spark plugs. Short observation is it made a huge improvement. Car feels brand new. Here is a list of what I recommend at 75k:

Front and Rear Differential = (2) Bottles of Mazda Genuine Part Number 0000-77-SG1-QT | Lng Life Hyp Gear Oil Sg1 - (only took 1.5)
Spark Plugs = (4) Mazda Genuine Part Number PE5R-18-110 | Plug,Spark (funny story - ordered OEM and sent me NGK, they fixed it though)
Transaxle (ATF) drain and fill = (6) Bottles Mazda Genuine Part Number 0000-FZ-113E-01 | Atf Type-Fz (only took 5)
Transaxle (ATF) Filter = (1) Mazda Genuine Part Number FZ01-21-500 | Strainer,Oil

Parts cost = $250
ASE Labor Cost = $500

Now I can't recommend what service made the most difference, but I speculate that this is such a precisely tuned vehicle that a combined service really put this back to factory. I plan to do the same service at 150k.

I have been reading on here that gear oils are lifetime with some advice either way.... but I highly advise changing out these fluids if you enjoy better performance of the vehicle especially on the low end acceleration. YMMV

Plan to update this information if I notice a discernible MPG increase.
 
Thanks for the info. Looks like you did take transmission fluid pan off as you replaced ATF filter. How difficult is the job using the sealer to put back the fluid pan? And what kind of sealer did you use and did you use OEM sealer?

People say OEM SkyActiv spark plug is the same as NGK's equivalent, but the price is 4~5 times higher! How different do these two look like? Did you notice NGK part number printed on the OEM spark plug case?

And the specs of gear lubricant capacity on front transfer case and real differential are wrong as the manual calls for less than 1 quart total but you did use 1.5 quarts. Have you noticed your old gear lub is under-filled from factory mainly the rear differential? And what made you get much more expensive OEM SG1 gear lub instead of factory recommended regular gear lub for your 2013 CX-5 AWD?

Finally, do you mind to tell us where did you get the OEM parts and how much does each part cost?
 
I don't care what they say about "long life", transmission fluids ought to be D&F'd every now and then. Did you get to see what it looked like?
 
Spark plug structure looked identical although there seemed to be some different metal coloring on OEM. I was so mad they sent me NGK, I really didn't look at them much beyond wrapping and shipping back!
I did not trust myself to drop the pan and seal - so I had a mechanic do it. It took him some time. The fluid looked worn, but not burnt. I can't comment on color.
I suspect it was under filled from factory. I bought 2 bottle per recommendation on this forum. I chose the more expensive lube since I will not do this same service until 150k and judging how the car was running - that's about the limit. IMO of course.

Parts breakdown from mazdastuff.com (please note they corrected the spark plug mixup right away)

0000-77-SG1-QT Mazda Genuine Part Number 0000-77-SG1-QT | Lng Life Hyp Gear Oil Sg1
2 $21.56 $43.12

PE5R-18-110 Mazda Genuine Part Number PE5R-18-110 | Plug,Spark
4 $22.88 $91.52

9956-41-400 Mazda Genuine Part Number 9956-41-400 | Gasket
2 $0.84 $1.68

0000-FZ-113E-01 Mazda Genuine Part Number 0000-FZ-113E-01 | Atf Type-Fz
6 $10.72 $64.32

FZ01-21-500 Mazda Genuine Part Number FZ01-21-500 | Strainer,Oil
1 $27.56
 
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Spark plug structure looked identical although there seemed to be some different metal coloring on OEM.
Seems people believe the OEM plug is exactly the same as NGK's, many would skip the much more expensive OEM spark plug. I believe there's a reason why the OEM plug is so expensive and will insist to use it when the time comes. Just glad at least they look a little different.

I thought the OEM FZ ATF used to be a lot more than $10.72? It's a good news the price has come down a bit. And very appreciated for listing the parts info and your experience in more details! :)
 
Thx for info, so the spark plug PE5R18110 is good for both 2.0 and 2.5 litre CX-5 engines?
 
You're welcome - I don't know if that plug is good for 2.0 vs. 2.5 litre, and can't speculate why a different plug would be needed. Your OM should specify the part number.

Sales rep said NGK's were the same plug, but I wanted that Mazda logo on it. Call it 50 dollars for some piece of mind.

My vehicle is my most important possession since it allows me to provide for the family and put a roof over their heads. Looking forward to 75k more flawless miles. She has never left me stranded in a winter storm or late to a meeting. Many thanks to the Mazda Engineers / Assembly Line Workers and Mechanic for that.
 
Thx for info, so the spark plug PE5R18110 is good for both 2.0 and 2.5 litre CX-5 engines?
According to 2016 CX-5 Owner's Manual, both SA-G 2.0L and 2.5L use the same spark plug:

Mazda Genuine spark plug*1 PE5R-18-110 or PE5S-18-110
*1 This spark plug provides the SKYACTIV-G engine with optimum performance. Contact an Authorized Mazda Dealer for details.
 
Looking forward to 75k more flawless miles.
IMO I would do ATF and gear lubricant on both front TC and rear differential drain-and-fill a bit earlier at around 50K-mile interval. I won't change the ATF filter though.
 
Changed the air filter earlier. Have not done the fuel filter as combustion seems fine and fuel not clogged. Is there a recommended interval?

I know last time I changed a fuel filter which was on my K1500 Silverado at 150k miles - it appeared unnecessary. With yours being Diesel - I would definitely add a fuel filter to my normal list of things to do. Good suggestion.
 
Changed the air filter earlier. Have not done the fuel filter as combustion seems fine and fuel not clogged. Is there a recommended interval?

I know last time I changed a fuel filter which was on my K1500 Silverado at 150k miles - it appeared unnecessary. With yours being Diesel - I would definitely add a fuel filter to my normal list of things to do. Good suggestion.
Remember to change the cabin filter too. :)

I also feel changing the fuel filter seems unnecessary unless you reached 150K miles if you choose Top-Tier gasoline and pick gas station a little carefully. There's no recommended change interval on fuel filter from Mazda. My 178,880-mile '98 Honda CR-V is still on original fuel filter.
 
if you choose Top-Tier gasoline and pick gas station a little carefully.

Funny you mention that - I had a fill from Haffners during the spring thaw on my Silverado and the engine bogged down stalled out - so that's when I elected to change the fuel filter and only shop Top Tier. Shortly after, the fuel pump went so I have been cautious in this department and use Shell almost exclusively. Strange coincidence that the pump went after the filter change? This part was a notorious failure point on K1500's and should really have been a TSB since it completely stalls the car out. Thankful it did not happen on the highway.

Petrol Top Tier US vs. Diesel - I would certainly be inspecting the fuel filter if I was running Diesel.... Top tier US gas seems to be mostly particulate free from my experience in the NE. Wonder if others have similar experience?
 
great info!! thx bob ross for all the OEM p/n's, quick question, I see you serviced both front and rear differentials, did you use new aluminum crush washers ? if so, would you have to have the p/n's, thanks in advance.
 
great info!! thx bob ross for all the OEM p/n's, quick question, I see you serviced both front and rear differentials, did you use new aluminum crush washers ? if so, would you have to have the p/n's, thanks in advance.

here you go, according to CX-SO's post, p/n for drain plug washer is 9956-41-800,

I think it's the same for both front and rear and you only need on the drain plugs not the fill plugs......

https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123850370-Rear-Diff-and-Transfer-Case-Fluid-Change-tools-parts-and-links

https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned)

https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned)
 
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great info!! thx bob ross for all the OEM p/n's, quick question, I see you serviced both front and rear differentials, did you use new aluminum crush washers ? if so, would you have to have the p/n's, thanks in advance.
For CX-5 AWD, front differential is located in the transaxle - combined with transmission. The gear lub we're changing at front is the transfer case, which transfers the engine power to the rear differential. Real differential has clutch pack inside controlling how much power transferring to the rear wheels.
 
Did drain/fill ATF at 30k and aprox. 60k. Transmission is smooth as silk @70+ miles.

Engine is still strong. Will replace plugs with some NGK 94124's as I read good reviews from them.
 
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Just to update my experience...

Car drives strong but was hearing dreaded whirling / grinding sound (like a flywheel) when applying accelerator at low end gears under 40 mph. Been driving for a month, but had some time to bring into the dealer today.

Transmission is being replaced under CPO warranty at a cost of 4500, that apparently Mazda is paying the dealer to do.

85k miles. I drive like a granny for good mpg.
 
Just to update my experience...

Car drives strong but was hearing dreaded whirling / grinding sound (like a flywheel) when applying accelerator at low end gears under 40 mph. Been driving for a month, but had some time to bring into the dealer today.

Transmission is being replaced under CPO warranty at a cost of 4500, that apparently Mazda is paying the dealer to do.

85k miles. I drive like a granny for good mpg.
This was expected. Sucks.
 
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