2017 CX-5 + Draw-tite or Curt hitch + 1Up-USA bike rack, anybody using?

mphilip

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2017 CX-5 GT
Planning to install a Draw-tite class III # 76138 or Curt class III # C13315
2" hitch on my new Cx-5 to use with a 1up-usa bike rack.

Prefer to get the Draw-tite as unlike the Curt, it doesn't mandate the use of stabilizing straps, which seem like an unecessary annoyance. Am concerned, however, that the Draw-tite is more recessed under the bumper, and won't provide the necessary 3.2" clearance for the 1up-usa rack in the folded up position? The Curt receiver seems to stick out a little further.

If anybody has any experience with these combos, I'd love to hear!
 
I just recently installed the Draw-Tite. In my estimation, the rear-most part of the vehicle is no more than 1 inch beyond the end of the hitch.
 
If your rack has built in anti-sway device of some kind straps aren't needed. It's a CYA thing in Curt's paperwork.

Straps are needed on the cheapest of bike racks that don't lock in to avoid the rack bouncing around while loaded up with bikes.

I use a Curt class 2 (1-1/4") hitch with a Kuat platform rack. No straps, no issues
 
Thanks both for the info, appreciated. Going to go ahead with the install. Will report back in case anyone else is looking at the same combination.
 
And in case any one is interested, no issues w/draw-tite hitch + 1up-usa rack. At least two inches to spare. Great rack, btw.
 

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In the end it's "6 of, and one-half dozen the other".

Once either is installed they will function the same... get whichever one you can find a better deal on.
 
In the end it's "6 of, and one-half dozen the other".

Once either is installed they will function the same... get whichever one you can find a better deal on.

Thanks. I guess it's not that critical if one is just hauling bikes.
 
I went with the Draw-tite 76138 hitch from etrailer. Should be delivered this week.
 
I ordered a Draw-Tite hitch bar for my Integra several years ago, and our CX-5 came with one already installed. My Thule platform rack works fine on both cars. But I hate the Thule rack itself. I want one of those 1UP racks soooo bad, but damn they're so expensive!
 
I ordered a Draw-Tite hitch bar for my Integra several years ago, and our CX-5 came with one already installed. My Thule platform rack works fine on both cars. But I hate the Thule rack itself. I want one of those 1UP racks soooo bad, but damn they're so expensive!

Yeah, it's a hell of a rack. Was wowed when I installed and put to use the first time. Had 4 rooftop Thule carriers on my Mazda5. They worked fine, but this is so much better, rock solid, so simple to load, and no straps or plastic parts. Sadly, they are expensive, particularly with the add-ons for multiple bikes, but use all the time and expect to last damn near forever.
 
Anyone know why the info on both the Curt and DrawTite says that some piece of bodywork underneath needs to be permanently removed on the Grand Touring model only? What are they talking about and why only the GT?
 
I ordered a Draw-Tite hitch bar for my Integra several years ago, and our CX-5 came with one already installed. My Thule platform rack works fine on both cars. But I hate the Thule rack itself. I want one of those 1UP racks soooo bad, but damn they're so expensive!
We've been using a Thule platform rack on our Outback. Really like the rack, but at my age I'm really feeling the 50lb+ weight of it.

When we get our CX-5, I'll probably go with a Saris rack that is comparable but only 35lbs, and I'll also go with a 1-1/4" hitch instead of our current 2". 95% of the time we're just doing a day-ride and taking the bikes from home to a parking lot/trailhead and back, so don't need ultimate robustness, security, etc. The Saris is expensive (on par with Thule) but not outrageous like some others.
 
We've been using a Thule platform rack on our Outback. Really like the rack, but at my age I'm really feeling the 50lb+ weight of it.

When we get our CX-5, I'll probably go with a Saris rack that is comparable but only 35lbs, and I'll also go with a 1-1/4" hitch instead of our current 2". 95% of the time we're just doing a day-ride and taking the bikes from home to a parking lot/trailhead and back, so don't need ultimate robustness, security, etc. The Saris is expensive (on par with Thule) but not outrageous like some others.

Not sure which Thule rack you have but mine has hooks that go over the bike top tube, which have ended up damaging the finish on all 4 of my family's bikes. I now have to put a piece of foam pipe insulation over the top tube, strap it in place with velcro straps, and then lock down the rack hook. Also the locking hooks have a major design flaw in that the bolts holding the flip-up arm with the locking hooks can be easily removed, rendering the locks useless.
 
Not sure which Thule rack you have but mine has hooks that go over the bike top tube, which have ended up damaging the finish on all 4 of my family's bikes. I now have to put a piece of foam pipe insulation over the top tube, strap it in place with velcro straps, and then lock down the rack hook. Also the locking hooks have a major design flaw in that the bolts holding the flip-up arm with the locking hooks can be easily removed, rendering the locks useless.
Ours hooks over the front tire and has built-in cable locks. As much security as I've ever felt I need, anyway.
 
And in case any one is interested, no issues w/draw-tite hitch + 1up-usa rack. At least two inches to spare. Great rack, btw.
Hey there great setup, I am in the market for a class iii/iv tow hitch and a 1up 2 bike racks.

Any issues with your current set up?
Also which 1up bike rack model?
 
Hey there great setup, I am in the market for a class iii/iv tow hitch and a 1up 2 bike racks.

Any issues with your current set up?
Also which 1up bike rack model?
I have the class III Etrailer version of the Curt C13315. It's the same rack except it's matte black as opposed to gloss black. It was $130 just before Xmas last year. It works great & was easy enough to install. Based on other posts here, I was going to get a 1 bike 1-UP with additional 1 bike add on but a local bike shop price matched an online price for a 2 bike Kuat Sherpa 2.0 that was too good to pass up. The Kuat is very nice & well made.
 
I have the class III Etrailer version of the Curt C13315. It's the same rack except it's matte black as opposed to gloss black. It was $130 just before Xmas last year. It works great & was easy enough to install. Based on other posts here, I was going to get a 1 bike 1-UP with additional 1 bike add on but a local bike shop price matched an online price for a 2 bike Kuat Sherpa 2.0 that was too good to pass up. The Kuat is very nice & well made.
What yr is your cx-5?

Any difference other than Etrailer matte black vs Curt c13315 gloss?

Any mods needed to install the the Etrailer / Curt c13315?

Lastly any cosmetic wear like rust so far?

Thanks!!
 
What yr is your cx-5?

Any difference other than Etrailer matte black vs Curt c13315 gloss?

Any mods needed to install the the Etrailer / Curt c13315?

Lastly any cosmetic wear like rust so far?

Thanks!!
Regarding cosmetic wear and rust.
My hitch has been occupying my attention for the last week because of rust. It's a Curt class 2 that I installed 6 years ago and the powder coat is peeling off in small sheets and has considerable rust on the bottom and forward surfaces that get the salt and road splash. Also the mounting brackets that are welded to the sides of the horizontal tube have major peeling.
At the time of installation I found it easier to just disconnect the muffler to make a lot more room since I was doing the job by myself (suggest 2 persons if you are going to install yourself. Really not hard to do). So attempting this again I got stopped dead in my tracks because one of the nuts (14 mm socket size) on the exhaust pipe flange won't come loose. I stopped after the impact socket started chewing up the nut without any further progress. In a way that's good because a more powerful impact wrench might have twisted off the stud with the nut still attached. Then I'd have a bigger problem. ---- Rust again ----
I'm mentioning all of this because :
1) for a one man install, removing the muffler makes the job much easier. A pair of exhaust hanger removal pliers slips those rubber hangers off without busting a gut.
2) If I were to install a new hitch again I would give it a good heavy coating of a durable finish first and also coat any bolts or nuts involved with a preservative because the rust will get you sooner or later. Unless your climate or road treatments doesn't promote rust then count yourself lucky.
 
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