2010 2.5L Oil Pan Replacement

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Mazda Protege5
Whoever change the oil in my 2010 M6 GT 2.5L before I bought it really wrenched in the oil drain plug. So much, that the threads were stripped the first time I changed the oil in it last November. I had it heli-coiled. That was fine for about 3 months, but then it started leaking again. So, I decided to replace the oil pan to permanently fix the problem.

Anyway, the "official" way to replace it is to remove the oil pan and the front engine cover, since the front of the oil pan connects to the bottom of the engine cover. Both need to have new sealant applied and reinstalled. That seems a bit overkill as all the common mating surfaces are accessible once the pan is removed.

So, has anyone done an oil pan replacement without removing the front cover?
 
Well, the oil pan has been replaced. The mechanic took an "alternate" approach - he separated the engine and transmission slightly to give enough room to get a good bead of sealant between the front of the oil pan and lower part of the front cover. This saved an hour of labor plus a front crank seal and valve cover gasket.
 
Well, the oil pan has been replaced. The mechanic took an "alternate" approach - he separated the engine and transmission slightly to give enough room to get a good bead of sealant between the front of the oil pan and lower part of the front cover. This saved an hour of labor plus a front crank seal and valve cover gasket.

smart fix
 
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