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Thread: 2010 2.5L Oil Pan Replacement

  1. #1
    Registered Member

    Mazda Protege5

    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Southern Tier NY
    Posts
    78

    2010 2.5L Oil Pan Replacement

    Whoever change the oil in my 2010 M6 GT 2.5L before I bought it really wrenched in the oil drain plug. So much, that the threads were stripped the first time I changed the oil in it last November. I had it heli-coiled. That was fine for about 3 months, but then it started leaking again. So, I decided to replace the oil pan to permanently fix the problem.

    Anyway, the "official" way to replace it is to remove the oil pan and the front engine cover, since the front of the oil pan connects to the bottom of the engine cover. Both need to have new sealant applied and reinstalled. That seems a bit overkill as all the common mating surfaces are accessible once the pan is removed.

    So, has anyone done an oil pan replacement without removing the front cover?


    2000 Mercury Sable LS Premium Wagon, 3.0L DOHC (my daily driver)
    2003 Mazda Protege5, 2.0L (daughter #1's daily driver)
    2008 Nissan Titan SE, Crew Cab, Long Bed, 5.6L (hauler of stuff)
    2010 Mazda 6i Grand Touring, 2.5L (daughter #2's daily driver)
    2012 Camry LE, 2.4L (wife's daily driver)

  2. #2
    Registered Member

    Mazda Protege5

    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Southern Tier NY
    Posts
    78
    Well, the oil pan has been replaced. The mechanic took an "alternate" approach - he separated the engine and transmission slightly to give enough room to get a good bead of sealant between the front of the oil pan and lower part of the front cover. This saved an hour of labor plus a front crank seal and valve cover gasket.
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